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nobotch

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  1. Not really. Actually I had asked myself the same question the other way round: any reason I could not or should not use wooden inserts instead of aluminium ones? As I am much more familiar with woodworking than metal working the decision was an easy one. Maybe a metal splitter/anchorage assembly screwed to the insert would be slightly sturdier, but the little bit of additional sturdiness is not necessary. Regarding the wooden inserts: they are as stiff and sturdy as the aluminium ones if you make them of 3mm or thicker birch plywood. This is easy earned money at saving 8$ per insert,
  2. It's the first picture in the first post in the thread I linked to. No need to click back to that thread again just for the picture, here it is again: The first one I made of solid mahogany for the plate and thin birch plywood for the splitter. For the next ones (see attached picture) I used 3mm (1/8") birch plywood for the plate which helps to keep the edge near the holes intact. Start by cutting the plate to size, bore and countersink the screw holes before thinning down these borders and before rounding over the corners. As the recess in the table is too thin to receive
  3. Some time ago I posted here my own additions and mods I immediately made to the saw after I bought it, and I find them useful, helpful or even necessary every time I use the saw. It takes two screws to remove the fence, which is quick enough for me. What in the pictures may seem to be four other screws are just location pins. A riving knife would be a great thing, but a good one that can quickly be exchanged according to the saw disk used surely would be an expensive solution. I overcame this issue by making my own zero-clearance plates which include a splitter (shown in the thread I
  4. A piece of threaded rod (M12) made a better handle for me. Exactly the right weight and length for my taste.
  5. Of course they do, why wouldn't they? But there's a catch with the sandpaper method: it is only cheaper if you don't sharpen a lot. Keeping all my plane blades, chisels, gouges and carving knives sharp by using the sandpaper method (aka "scary sharp system") I would spend each year as much for sandpaper as two nice Japanese waterstones cost! Halfways and/or unevenly worn sandpaper does a poor job on sharpening. For "only" sharpening very small blades, and not sharpening many blades several times a week the sandpaper method may be a good option though.
  6. May I ask why you only rarely use it? Although I am very happy with the use and results of my sharpening equipment (water stones, diamond plates, guides, truing plates - for that money I almost could have bought the Tormek! LOL) I still would like to know more about the strong and weak points of this WS3000 machine (after all, it "only" costs about the price of another two very nice waterstones or diamond plates, haha).
  7. Bill, it looks like you have a very reasonable dustcollection setup. Bigger ducting cross section is goos as long as the blower can keep up delivering a high enough airflow speed in the "fat tubes". I don't think that you can have any overkill at all on dust collection. The big problem with dust is that we only really discover protection is not good enough when it is already too late. Those ambient air filters are a great addition, but they can not replace dust collection right at the machine or even better "at the blade".
  8. A well designed cyclone lets about 10% of the smaller than 5 micron sized particles through to the filter. Of course, no dust collection system will deal with the dust it did not capture, regardless if hooking up or not a cyclone between the machinery and the blower / shop vac. This sounds trivial, but picking up the dust right where it has been produced is essential (as close as possible to where the blade tip or sandpaper makes contact with the wood). Since dust collection does not get more efficient than the design of the hood is, there is still o lot of room for improvement there (more
  9. Cheers Mike. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I always have used plain cardboard, not corrugated. However, I'm glad you could achieve some noise reduction with the cardboard fix. I see that you damped the aluminium(?) housing, which certainly is not wrong (I guess you did the same with the door which I believe is made of some kind of plasic). - Markus
  10. I hook up a self built cyclone separator between the dust/chip prodiuction site and the vacuum. This saves me dust bags (none at all needed) and keeps fine dust filters (if present) from clogging up too quickly. I built my cyclone according to the scaleable plans of Bill Pentz's model (for those interested in building one: it helps a lot to read Bill's build-instructions on his website here and here). Its geometry is well calculated and the cyclone is very effective. But there are also simpler models of separators (less effective, let more fine particles through to the filter), like for e
  11. I couldn't agree more. A friend of mine had a near miss using his accu drill. This, and the fact that it bothered me to always had to make two or three steps to grab my goggles when working with another tool were the driving factors for me to do a relatively cheap but very effective upgrade: every stationary powertool has now "its own" goggles, strategically placed in a way that I can't use the tool without moving the goggles "out of the way - onto my nose". I got used to this system very quickly and shed live is now much easier (and a fair bit safer). When using an electric hand drill
  12. Hi Mike, I don't have the Proxxon bandsaw, but I have reduced noise on quite a few machines (computers, drill press, cheap scroll saw, and some others) by gluing cardboard sheets (as big as possible) to the inside of the housing or housing parts that act as a resonator. You need the dense variety of cardboard, and it should be thick or you can use two layers if possible. The additional mass of the cardboard is important because it reduces the "vibrational mobility" of the resonator. I normally use epoxy glue on metal and plastic parts. Of course it is also important that the saw's door is
  13. Gaetan, The assumption that security had to do with experience is not correct. History proves that experience and "paying attention all the time" does not completely [edit: not even approximately] prevent accidents. Normally they don't happen, even if we make mistakes! But acidentally they do happen, which is why accidents are called accidents. We all make mistakes, also the experienced ones. Also, these small tablesaws have more than enough power to cause serious damage to one or several fingers in a blink of an eye. Even if not cutting off a finger completely (which would be perfectl
  14. Which requires to remove the guard. Not recommendable!
  15. Hi Stefon, Good question! The maximum distance between the blade and the rip fence is about 97 mm (with no micrometer mounted). If this is not enough for your purposes you can ask Jim to make you one with a broader table to your specifications, for example like this one the amazing and charming team of Beatty Robotics uses. Cheers, Markus
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