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  1. Still limping along with Granado.  I'm about to step the masts.  The manual says to first "temporarily drill and pin the yards in place on the masts".  The yards are then removed until later.  Question:  what is the point of the drilling and pinning since it doesn't seem to relate to the later attachment of the yards?  Can it be safely omitted or will I regret it if I don't do it?

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. FredSC


      Thanks.  Unfortunately, I'm more confused.  What holes are you referring to for "pinning them" (what, the yards?) in advance"?  This implies that at some point the yards are pinned to the masts, although the manual doesn't say they are.  ???

    3. jwvolz


      Some people (not all) drill holes in the masts to accept yards with pins. I do it. It makes it easier to rig things that way without having to worry about having to use the rigging to keep everything square and straight. I highly recommend doing it that way. I'd drill the holes in the mast now off the model, but leave the yards off until all of the standing rigging is finished. 


      Hope that's clearer.

    4. FredSC


      Thanks, Joe.  Much clearer.

  2. Alan, I don't have a table saw and I'm not getting one. Even so, there must be a half dozen morals to your story. Thanks for sharing them and I hope you heal up fast. My Dremel Micro is about all the power I can handle. Fred
  3. Richard, Great idea, but isn't it awkward when you get up for a beer, lunch, whatever?
  4. Take a look at Timmo's and Joe V's Caldercraft Grenado build logs. They are spectacular. I'm doing Grenado now (not at all spectacular) and think Caldercraft has put together a fine kit. I wouldn't know how to compare it to the Victory kit without having done that too.
  5. Thanks, Tom and I never regret it. But I should have said that what Coach Valvano was talking about was far more serious than pursuit of a hobby. Still, as an organizing principle it is priceless.
  6. I'm working on build #4. To be honest, I should have tossed them all at some point as they will never approach the amazing builds shown here, everywhere. As much as I admire those so skilled and accept my inherent limitations, this is supposed to be fun. So I do it for that reason alone. It helps to be (a) retired and ( stubborn. I think , as I often have over the years of the famous ESPN Award speech by college basketball coach Jim Valvano. "Don't give up, don't ever give up". So I'll finish every #$%@# one of them.
  7. I stop, tell the Admiral something like, " I really messed up the fish davit spanshackle". She looks kindly sympathetic (having no idea what I just said). I have a Boodles, if the time is right. The next day, after I've figured out a fix, I make the repair, the beloved Admiral say, "Wow", and all is well.
  8. I just saw your query. I certainly can't answer it, but I know that I share your issue. I'm guessing that the "answer" may be what you are happy with. Purists might say that every detail must be perfect, whether it can be seen or not. I can't do that, but for now, I'm happy with the best that I can do. Maybe with more experience, more help from others here, who knows.... But it is fun doing it, and that matters.
  9. Hi, Christine. To each his (or her) own, and I'm sure some people have good results with nails. I never have; the planks split; the nails won't go in; etc. There are commercially available planking vises, or, as JM suggests, you could make your own. After you have soaked the planks and bent them with an iron, a commercially available plank bender (sort of like a soldering iron with a round attachment on the end, a tool that crimps the back side (that I have found works pretty well), or something else; after the planks are bent, gluing and clamping should do the job. Good luck.
  10. Just got the NWSL "Chopper II" It is obviously much sturdier than the Micro-Mark "Chop-It" and the cutting arm exhibits no sway (result of not long use of "Chop-It" shown below). As others have noted ,since the surface is a movable and replaceable cutting mat (as opposed to fiberboard), grooving of the surface should not be a problem. Since the "Chopper II" differs from the NWSL original "Chopper", direct comparison with the alleged MM "Chop-It" knock-off is not possible. However, just on the face of it, "Chopper II" is a far superior tool.
  11. Andy, If yours is the Micro-Mark, I'm not sure how you could have tightened the handle. No matter how much I tried, I couldn't tighten it enough to eliminate the wobble that left I deep v in the base. My new NWSL "Chopper II" should arrive any day.
  12. So as not to pile on Micro-Mark, I'll keep this factual and let everyone draw their own conclusions. A couple of years ago I purchased the Micro-Mark "Chop-It", unaware, as with many other things, that there were alternatives for the same function. The base of the "Chop-It" appears to be fiberboard. The way the cutting arm is attached results in a slight, inherent wobble. The consequence of these two factors is that after brief use, the fiberboard is deeply scored. This results in bending the piece before it is cut. The way the blades fit, they appear to be specially made. It was only about a week ago in following an MSW thread that I learned that NorthWest Short Line (as the name implies, supplying railroad modelers) sells "The Chopper" and "Chopper II". The MM "Chop-It" appears remarkably similar to the NWSL "Chopper". It further appears that the NWSL folks believe that MM unfairly copied their "Chopper"and are selling an inferior knock-off (see hornet 3/26/15 post). Because I find the MM "Chop-It" unsatisfactory, today I ordered the NWSL "Chopper II" Product review to follow after it arrives. P.S. If I could realistically look forward to another 20 years or more of modelling, I'd almost certainly purchase the full line of Jim Byrnes power tools and really get into it. Alas, .... So, it seems the thing to do is get the right hand tools (plus the Dremel rotary) to build the best possible models from kits.
  13. Mihal, terrific work. I'll have to add Pegasus to my, growing, list of builds to do.
  14. Thanks, Derek. That sound like a good way to do it.

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