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About Thistle17

  • Birthday 07/25/1939

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  • Location
    Webster NY
  • Interests
    Research, kit (bashing), scratch, half hull modeling of period naval and 1800-1900 work boats.

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  1. Inspirational Bob! I just managed to get all my bulkheads completed yesterday and I have yet to build my build platform! So it seems "I have miles to go before I sleep". I will be tuning in to you for inspiration and guidance. Don't lose me in the dust! Joe
  2. Thank you both for your input. It appears I have over thought the method. I know I have said this before but I have to say it again. The information sharing of this forum is amazing! Joe
  3. OK Chuck I have a question. In planking the bow of Cheerful I found that some of the planks fit into the rabbet were less than perfect. Most ended up sprung against the stem member but a few had drifted away from that tight condition. Here is how I was planking the bow: 1. slight bevel on the fore end of the plank on the underside of the plank 2. plank end tapered to the stem angle 2. heat bent around a canister cap with a radius slightly tighter than the bow radius. 3. theoretically the tighter radius when glued in forced the plank up tight against the stem Should I have skipped step one? Joe
  4. Weather in upstate New York has been superb for the opening of the fall season so it has been hard to get back to the shop and work on the PBR. We forced the situation today though. Most of the work has been focused on shaping the "rail" that surrounds the bow to about 2/3 of the vessel. As stated earlier it starts out at 1" at the bow tapering to 0" at the mid point of the engine covers. I resorted to using my hand power planer to achieve the appropriate taper of the rail after marking off the taper using battens. I then smoothed the outside face roughly on my oscillating sander table and then used hand sanding to gain a satisfying contour. The inside was another matter. It has a taper from top side to its bottom. The complication is the taper is not uniform. Topside thickness was outlined using a template. Bottom side was also defined by its sister template. Using a spoke shave the inside taper was roughed out, moved to the oscillating sander and finally hand sanded close to finish dimension. Some Easy Sand was applied to void areas but for the most part it is ready for finish sanding, final fitting and install. As it turns out this depiction doesn't really show the taper well. Hopefully one gets the idea though. Joe
  5. Good idea Rusty on weighting them down. My environment is a bit more humid and I have even got in the habit of covering the work in progress with plastic sheeting. Those scroll saw blades do a great job by the way! Question: I believe you said you were using Birch ply is that correct. Is it Baltic Birch? Joe
  6. My progress reminds me of the sprinter who is the last off the blocks when the gun goes off. I finally received my 1/4 ply from National Balsa. It got lost in the delivery cycle but ultimately showed up at my door. I ordered 10 sheets and oddly they sent 12. It is all shrink wrapped so a quality inspection will soon be made. I guess they know I am prone to mistakes. Fabrication of the bulkheads should begin very soon. My race metaphor is how I feel right now but I do understand this is not a race to the finish! Joe
  7. Your model build is a joy to follow. I cut my teeth on the Bluenose from AJ Fisher sometime ago. Shaping the hull with carving tools etc was wonderfully satisfying. I have been drawn into the world of plank on bulkhead and while some find it very much to their liking I can't say I do. I find myself wanting to get onto the detail of the model but plodding along on the planking. Redjacket is a beauty and your progress reminds of the merits of solid hulls. Sitting on my shelf is The Flying Cloud from your namesake just waiting for my attention. You inspire me. Joe PS The vintage of the Flying Cloud if I am correct has the lead alloy fittings. Any suggestions?
  8. Mike you set a high water mark in terms of execution! Always a treat to witness your progress. Above you reference a dowel use in the counter. Are you using it to contour the plank along its length in this are? Can you explain it a bit more please? Joe
  9. Well here it is September and it has been over a month of no postings. Summer's end whizzed right past and I have to report that we had a somewhat uneventful build with the exception of the beautiful metal work by one of our members in his execution of the aft gun tripod. His replication is in brass and silver soldered joinery. Darkening was somewhat problematical for him as even though his work was well cleaned it did not take the darkening solution method well. He ultimately resorted to painting. He has yet to add the final gun support and armor shield but one should be confident that the end result will be nothing but spectacular. Obviously that is it in the 2nd attachment. The PBR itself has had some build up in the aft section with the addition of the air intakes, the engine hatches and build up of the bow and fore rails atop. They await planning and shaping from the bow to station 11 (i.e. 1inch high to deck height respectively). The open area, mid deck, is reserved for the forward gun tub which has been assigned to another group member. Joe
  10. I have adapted Chuck's methodology for my planking practice. I rate myself as still a novice but this technique has immensely improved my results. To help with the tapering I have adopted using a Lee Valley miniature low angle block plane to approach the width line and then finish off with the sanding stick. I made a fairly long hand held clamping vice out of 2 pieces of maple about 16 inches long. One has a kerf cut in with a shallow depth that the plank sits in. The kerf width is a shade under the plank thickness. The two beams are held together with wing nuts and screws and securely clamp the plank. This jig facilitates holding the plank firmly when running the block plane for the taper. For me it is just a time saver. Joe
  11. It is going to be a slow start up for me but nonetheless a startup. Drawings and hull templates printed out last week as I have decided to fabricate the bulkheads and false keel parts. And as luck will have I will travel in the very near future very close to National Balsa so I will be picking up the material needed. Haven't quite decided if I will opt for the Birch false keel quite yet but will by then. Totally conflicted by my other projects staring me in the face and pushing hard to get them cleaned up to concentrate on this captivating project. Chuck those drawings are a work of art in themselves. Joe
  12. The enthusiasm for the project is not surprisingly, amazing. Definitely a worthy project and one well worth the effort Bob. Essex will have to wait. I for one will follow your journey. Joe
  13. A re-enforcing comment. My Essex kit is about 28 inches long and has a two part false keel. For a demo I assembled it using an Ed Tosti like gantry jig for this specific purpose. The keel members were flat to begin with. After assembling 20 of the bulkheads one could notice a slight twist to the false keel. This could only be trued by inserting the stiffeners (3/8 X 1/4 beams on each side of the keel) into the precut notches of 19 of the 22 bulkheads. Even multi layer Baltic Birch ply will warp slightly just sitting on a flat surface in my low humidity shop accumulating moisture unevenly (on the top side vs the bottom). Having built a few houses in my time if you do not get the foundation true you will constantly be correcting, and living with the results, all they way to the roof top. Joe
  14. Knowing your work and your expertise it will not be too long before you are pacing alongside the master and his protégé! I on the other hand will be learning from the masters. Happy to have you in the fray. Joe
  15. Kurt I signed up in March for my usual 1 year membership and just submitted via Pay Pal for the Winne plans just this week. Am I able to take advantage of the offer by extending my 1 year to 2? Joe

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