Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Thistle17

  • Birthday 07/25/1939

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Webster NY
  • Interests
    Research, kit (bashing), scratch, half hull modeling of period naval and 1800-1900 work boats.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,187 profile views
  1. I bought the Rockler https://www.rockler.com/dust-right-flexiport-power-tool-hose-kit-3-to-12-expandable It works perfectly with the Byrnes machines as the blue insert is a nice friction fit. Joe
  2. More questions have come to mind Jim. 1. I have access to a tilt table for the saw from a group member. How does that work with the larger table design? 2. I would be asking you to incorporate the micrometer fence adjust. Does either the tilt table or the larger table present any problems with this addition? Joe
  3. Thanks Jim. Final questions: Outside of shipping how long is the retrofit time? Are there any alignment querks/needs to remount to align with the arbot? All I send is the table top sans the fence rails but with the rail mount blocks right? Joe
  4. I too am building Cheerful. As I rate myself higher than a "newbie", but by no means a professional, there is so much to learn and do that is relatively intracate on this model it bears proceeding with a good deal of respect even though it is a kit of a higher level with quality components. I am detailing out the deck fittings at this point. It might be of use to you to know that the decking I found harder than the hull planking. I think one of its characteristics is that there is no denying its quality assessment as it stares at you. Also beware the widlass is tricky. About 60 parts of small dimensions where tolerance build up becomes a large factor. The good news is that once you reach this level of the build it gets even more satisfying. Joe
  5. In terms of accuracy don't let your engineering mind take you over the edge. That is my background as well and I know the feeling. From an accuracy standpoint I offer that you will be just fine. Keep in mind that there are very few rectilenear elements on a ship or boat as compared to a house. If you want to increase your accuracy beyond your adjustable square then treat yourself to a set of engineering squares (fixed blade, varied sizes). They are relatively cheap and they remove the variabiluty of your run of the mill adjustable version. I use them all the time in both woodworking and modeling. Joe
  6. It is not uncommon to need to refine angle cuts. I wish I had thought of this jig when planking the gun pports of Cheerful. Initially I had thought I would create another jig for the truing of angled cuts but after thinking that one jig might fit both applications and inspecting the commerical one shown earlier it struck me to make a small change to version 1.0. Version 1.1 utilizes the Byrnes sander mitre positioned as shown. I milled a 0.49 slot that yields a tight fit for the bar just deep enough to enable the mitre fence to sit flush with the jig surface. The slot is snug as I did not want the bar to wander into the trimming area. In this position one can trim just about any desired angle in either direction. I will modify the mitre fence by adding a wooden fence that will extend to the trim edge of the jig. I perceive it will need to be slidable to the trim edge especially if one chooses to use a low angle plane to prevent exit breakout. Joe
  7. Practically speaking the only elements of the jig I suggest that need to be true are the : the shooting edge where the plane rides and the perpendicular placement of the cross piece or stop. This is easily accomplished with a square to align the pieces. Even a drafting square can help with the alignment. Joe
  8. Acoarond I am certainly not an expert on traditional building methods but this just sounds counter intuitive. I think I understand the reasoning owing to the fact that it is very difficult to lay up decking and waterways for a fully framed hull or even a plank on bulkhead version would be a feat. Also given that most vessels were planked inboard why would one go to the trouble when it is all going to be hidden. Not to mention trying to recreate the form of the hull above decks afterwards. Joe
  9. When "cover" is referenced I have assumed you mean the table insert for the saw blade. If so I would suggest the following from my careless experience. I installed a new blade which had an existing table insert that matched the prior blade kerf. I turned on the saw and it was slightly hitting the side of the insert. I stopped and opened the saw up and to my dismay the saw blade was not sitting flush on the mandrel. The act of reinstalling it correctly did not fix the problem as the blade had slightly distorted. That new blade was rendered useless. Joe
  10. It is not a coincidence that we all need a tool akin to those suggested here for all types of square cuts or even angle cuts. I made this simple one out of cut offs of MDF. It is modeled after my wood working shooting board. One can use either a low angle plane with a sharp, sharp blade or even sand paper glued to a stick. The plane is the Lee Valley Block plane. I am working on a similar version for angled fine tuning that will incorporate my mitre fence from my Byrnes sander. Joe
  11. Masterful work by both of you. I hold your works as the quintessential reference of human accomplishment. Hopefully next year in New London it will be there to see up close. Joe
  12. I am sure you know but just for the sake of it wood swells across its width i.e. perpendicular to its fiber cells. So don't glue them in until you are sure they are completely dry if you go this route. Look on this site for alternate measures for planking. I think you may find these methods preferable. Joe
  13. Our group got to see Rusty's model in person last weekend. It is such a warm and rich appearing rendition in pear wood. His execution is skillful aaaaaaaaand all the more so as we remind ourselves that to this point it is all scratch! Joe
  14. I'm curious. It would seem you are just a few steps from creating of say a DXF file to have your parts machined via laser or cnc routing. is there a reason you didn't go that route? Joe

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
  • Create New...