Thistle17
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Elijah in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO
It is one and the same. I did not use the duct foil as it was a bit too thick in gauge. Be careful with the Bare Metal Foil it rips easily.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from WackoWolf in Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
I have been a long time woodworker and of late returned to model building. In the 45 years of woodworking I have owned 2 large stationary saws and one contractor saw. The kept table saw is now 35 years old and has been a work horse for me. The contractor saw is a name brand that is an excellent field saw but it is used infrequently, yet it still comes in handy. In modeling I have owned/own 3 model saws. The latest is the Byrnes saw. The prior, the Preac,was recently sold. The Emco add on saw has never been used because of its limits. The Preac was a decent saw for its day but I found it too limiting and falling short of some basic capability.
So what is the point you ask? Buy the best you can afford even if you have to be patient in purchase. Amortize the expense over your lifetime and its pretty cheap.Quality tools are lifetime investments and endure. If they find no practical use in the future they are easily sold and the quality ones don't stay on the market very long. My Preac was on Craig's one day.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Elijah in Willie L Bennett by SWOHammer (Rob Kallman) - Model Shipways - Scale 3/8" - First Build
Rob I just realized where you live. I used to live in Portsmouth RI and worked at Raytheon. At that time (Vietnam era) it was called Submarine Signal Division. I worked in electronics design of surface to sub surface sonar systems. At that time the destroyer fleet was stationed there and I got on base to play ball and dine at the officers club. I also worked on the sono-bouy program at General Dynamics in Rochester NY. Now that was long ago and far away but recently we visited Bristol. Love that town!
I still chuckle about the time there, as we lived in a small apartment complex with 3 Navy families; an Annapolis grad, an enlisted "swabby" and a Great Lakes grad. It was a hoot.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from SWOHammer in Willie L Bennett by SWOHammer (Rob Kallman) - Model Shipways - Scale 3/8" - First Build
Rob I just realized where you live. I used to live in Portsmouth RI and worked at Raytheon. At that time (Vietnam era) it was called Submarine Signal Division. I worked in electronics design of surface to sub surface sonar systems. At that time the destroyer fleet was stationed there and I got on base to play ball and dine at the officers club. I also worked on the sono-bouy program at General Dynamics in Rochester NY. Now that was long ago and far away but recently we visited Bristol. Love that town!
I still chuckle about the time there, as we lived in a small apartment complex with 3 Navy families; an Annapolis grad, an enlisted "swabby" and a Great Lakes grad. It was a hoot.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Elijah in Willie L Bennett by SWOHammer (Rob Kallman) - Model Shipways - Scale 3/8" - First Build
I am following your posts with interest as you are breaking ground for my build of this model. In carving I find the following: a very sharp chisel, don't be afraid to saw some of the overhang off, if that is balsa or even bass I would use a sharp gouge to remove some of the excess and pare with a chisel as you approach the correct contours. Also when excavating remove the material starting at the bow and work aft. i hope these suggestions don't insult your intelligence. They are just basic methods for any carving. I really like your work.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Elijah in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO
My grandson and I fastened the rub strips to the sides just this week. Again we used metal foil over styrene 1/2 round of appropriate scale. We used CA (20 second) glue to fasten to the sides sparingly. It took both of us to do it. The CA was applied to sections and then held in place. The results were quite satisfying.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from WackoWolf in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO
My grandson and I fastened the rub strips to the sides just this week. Again we used metal foil over styrene 1/2 round of appropriate scale. We used CA (20 second) glue to fasten to the sides sparingly. It took both of us to do it. The CA was applied to sections and then held in place. The results were quite satisfying.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from dgbot in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO
My grandson and I fastened the rub strips to the sides just this week. Again we used metal foil over styrene 1/2 round of appropriate scale. We used CA (20 second) glue to fasten to the sides sparingly. It took both of us to do it. The CA was applied to sections and then held in place. The results were quite satisfying.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from src in Willie L Bennett by SWOHammer (Rob Kallman) - Model Shipways - Scale 3/8" - First Build
I am following your posts with interest as you are breaking ground for my build of this model. In carving I find the following: a very sharp chisel, don't be afraid to saw some of the overhang off, if that is balsa or even bass I would use a sharp gouge to remove some of the excess and pare with a chisel as you approach the correct contours. Also when excavating remove the material starting at the bow and work aft. i hope these suggestions don't insult your intelligence. They are just basic methods for any carving. I really like your work.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from mtaylor in Willie L Bennett by SWOHammer (Rob Kallman) - Model Shipways - Scale 3/8" - First Build
I am following your posts with interest as you are breaking ground for my build of this model. In carving I find the following: a very sharp chisel, don't be afraid to saw some of the overhang off, if that is balsa or even bass I would use a sharp gouge to remove some of the excess and pare with a chisel as you approach the correct contours. Also when excavating remove the material starting at the bow and work aft. i hope these suggestions don't insult your intelligence. They are just basic methods for any carving. I really like your work.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from SWOHammer in Willie L Bennett by SWOHammer (Rob Kallman) - Model Shipways - Scale 3/8" - First Build
I am following your posts with interest as you are breaking ground for my build of this model. In carving I find the following: a very sharp chisel, don't be afraid to saw some of the overhang off, if that is balsa or even bass I would use a sharp gouge to remove some of the excess and pare with a chisel as you approach the correct contours. Also when excavating remove the material starting at the bow and work aft. i hope these suggestions don't insult your intelligence. They are just basic methods for any carving. I really like your work.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Elijah in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO
Paul I used filler as I related earlier on the PVC substrate. The Evercoat 2 part filler and I backed up some joints on the inside of the hull with CA'd wood fillers. As for the planking when it was laid dow, whether it sprang loose or laid down correctly I did have to use filler. I used the colored filler you can buy at Home Depot (Elmer's or others) that comes in the squeeze tubes. It has a paste like consistency and will rub into the joints well. I used cherry colored filler. However I caution; it colors the surrounding planks if it gets away from you, and you will see the smear after clear coating the hull. I had to sand down the clear coat and then the planks to get it to blend. I'd suggest masking off the area you apply fill to.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Elijah in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO
I did not stain anything, rather just applied the top clear coat and let the mahogany do its thing. The strips are pretty uniform in color so the sides and deck came out quite well. If you want the deck planks lighter you may have to use different stock. I'd suggest you experiment, off model, with some different stains and stock. You may also try some of the Trans Tint dyes (using alcohol instead of water) to color the material. Don't use basswood.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from trashboat in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO
I did not stain anything, rather just applied the top clear coat and let the mahogany do its thing. The strips are pretty uniform in color so the sides and deck came out quite well. If you want the deck planks lighter you may have to use different stock. I'd suggest you experiment, off model, with some different stains and stock. You may also try some of the Trans Tint dyes (using alcohol instead of water) to color the material. Don't use basswood.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from WackoWolf in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO
I did not stain anything, rather just applied the top clear coat and let the mahogany do its thing. The strips are pretty uniform in color so the sides and deck came out quite well. If you want the deck planks lighter you may have to use different stock. I'd suggest you experiment, off model, with some different stains and stock. You may also try some of the Trans Tint dyes (using alcohol instead of water) to color the material. Don't use basswood.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Elijah in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO
Paul don't be discouraged by this stage of the results. I too felt as you do right now. This kit needs an upgrade in terms of manufacturing. You will begin to see a "different boat as you apply the planking so take heart. As for the planking take some extra care as you adhere the planks near the bow. I had a couple lift an edge as there is no good way to clamp them as you lay them down. I had to use low viscosity CA and hand pressure to "flatten" them down. A messy process and the seams soaked the CA. Lots of sanding to get past that.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from trashboat in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO
Paul I used filler as I related earlier on the PVC substrate. The Evercoat 2 part filler and I backed up some joints on the inside of the hull with CA'd wood fillers. As for the planking when it was laid dow, whether it sprang loose or laid down correctly I did have to use filler. I used the colored filler you can buy at Home Depot (Elmer's or others) that comes in the squeeze tubes. It has a paste like consistency and will rub into the joints well. I used cherry colored filler. However I caution; it colors the surrounding planks if it gets away from you, and you will see the smear after clear coating the hull. I had to sand down the clear coat and then the planks to get it to blend. I'd suggest masking off the area you apply fill to.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from mtaylor in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO
Paul don't be discouraged by this stage of the results. I too felt as you do right now. This kit needs an upgrade in terms of manufacturing. You will begin to see a "different boat as you apply the planking so take heart. As for the planking take some extra care as you adhere the planks near the bow. I had a couple lift an edge as there is no good way to clamp them as you lay them down. I had to use low viscosity CA and hand pressure to "flatten" them down. A messy process and the seams soaked the CA. Lots of sanding to get past that.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from reklein in Vintage/Near Vintage Kit Worth
Well here is a saga that ended well. The owner of the ship model kits previously referred to called and offered his kits up to the Military History Society of Rochester NY. In turn he will receive a write off for his taxes and we the Model Shipwright Guild of Western NY will work to find the kits a good home and hopefully raise funds for the museum in so doing. This was a win.win for all. It just shows this "band of brothers" that exists in the model ship building world.Indeed a great ending.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from druxey in Vintage/Near Vintage Kit Worth
Well here is a saga that ended well. The owner of the ship model kits previously referred to called and offered his kits up to the Military History Society of Rochester NY. In turn he will receive a write off for his taxes and we the Model Shipwright Guild of Western NY will work to find the kits a good home and hopefully raise funds for the museum in so doing. This was a win.win for all. It just shows this "band of brothers" that exists in the model ship building world.Indeed a great ending.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Elijah in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO
I really like the sandable ease of EverCoat Rage. It is a 2 part filler and adheres to the PVC (roughen the PVC up though). It is used in auto body repair.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from mtaylor in 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO
I really like the sandable ease of EverCoat Rage. It is a 2 part filler and adheres to the PVC (roughen the PVC up though). It is used in auto body repair.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Vintage/Near Vintage Kit Worth
Well here is a saga that ended well. The owner of the ship model kits previously referred to called and offered his kits up to the Military History Society of Rochester NY. In turn he will receive a write off for his taxes and we the Model Shipwright Guild of Western NY will work to find the kits a good home and hopefully raise funds for the museum in so doing. This was a win.win for all. It just shows this "band of brothers" that exists in the model ship building world.Indeed a great ending.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from ccoyle in Vintage/Near Vintage Kit Worth
Well here is a saga that ended well. The owner of the ship model kits previously referred to called and offered his kits up to the Military History Society of Rochester NY. In turn he will receive a write off for his taxes and we the Model Shipwright Guild of Western NY will work to find the kits a good home and hopefully raise funds for the museum in so doing. This was a win.win for all. It just shows this "band of brothers" that exists in the model ship building world.Indeed a great ending.
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Vintage/Near Vintage Kit Worth
Well here is a saga that ended well. The owner of the ship model kits previously referred to called and offered his kits up to the Military History Society of Rochester NY. In turn he will receive a write off for his taxes and we the Model Shipwright Guild of Western NY will work to find the kits a good home and hopefully raise funds for the museum in so doing. This was a win.win for all. It just shows this "band of brothers" that exists in the model ship building world.Indeed a great ending.
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