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About wyz

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  • Birthday 11/27/1950

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    Connecticut, USA
  • Interests
    Outside of model shipbuilding I have interests in reading, the Linux operating system, playing pool, wood carving and watching sports.

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  1. Welcome aboard tenderfoot. Chuck gave you great advice about taking your time and asking lots of question. This group project has quite a number of friendly and competent model builders who will gladly give you help should you stumble. Tom
  2. No, there will be no quitting with this project. Thank you, Frank and Ron for your concern and best wishes. I feel confident all of us will be moving our Winchelsea builds forward soon. Tom
  3. Thanks H's H. You can bet the ranch I won't go too fast. When you have the pain I had you damn sure don't want to hurt yourself again. The templates will occupy my time for several weeks. Tom
  4. Well, it's been over a month since I ruptured a disc in my back. Is it still sore? Oh yes, but it feels a great deal better than it was. I told myself I would put down model ship building until my back is better. While I'm still not where I want to be the prednisone, cyclobenzaprine, rest, and now limited exercise have helped a lot. I'm now starting to think about how I will move forward with this Winchelsea project. After my accident I was quite sure that building a solid hull frigate model would be way too much for someone with chronic back problems, and that I should seriously conside
  5. It's nice to see you start your Winchelsea model. I wish you only the best in this project. Should you run into a problem or just have a modeling technique question Chuck and a number of other experienced model builders are a post away. Take your time, measure carefully and DON'T RUSH! We look forward to following your build. Tom
  6. Hi Mike,

       I have a few questions for you ....again.  My back is finally healing enough for me to start model building again.  Hurrah!  This week I want to place an order to Syren Ship Model Company.  When I read your build log I see that you have a hybrid build going with certain parts out of Alaskan yellow cedar and others out of Castello boxwood.  How much of your model is yellow cedar?  Did you buy from Chuck all the chapters in Alaskan yellow cedar and then pick and choose carefully where to add parts of boxwood?  I'm trying to get a grip on what I need to buy and what will be scratch built.  Like you, I want to plank in boxwood.  Can you give me any advice on what to buy?  Money is not an issue, but I really don't wish to buy a lot of AYC parts that will not be used.  However, I will buy a chapter if you think certain parts are worth getting.

    Your friend,


    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Stuntflyer


      Btw; Do you where I can get enough clear boxwood to do another frigate like the winnie?

    3. wyz



           Thanks for the quick reply.  Many, many years ago I bought a shitload of Castello boxwood from a place in Canada:   A&M Wood Specialty,  357 Eagle Street North, PO Box 32040, Cambridge, Ontario N3H5M2    tel. # 519 653 9322   USA tel. # 800 265 2759  email  mail@amwoodinc.com 

           I purchased several sizeable pieces, and have never needed to ever buy more.  The problem is that you have to buy blind.  I would certainly give them a call, tell them what your needs are, and see if they can give you what you are looking for.  Not all the wood I purchased from them was uniform in color, but there was enough clear stuff of any hue to build a ship model.  Are you a gambler Mike?  LOL  Some places, if you are buying long distance, will slice a small piece down the length of a board to look at it for you.  Dave at The Lumberyard for Model Shipwrights might do that for you.

            Another place that comes to mind is: Rare Woods USA LLC, 120 Swift River Road, Mexico (town's name), Maine, 04257, USA  tel. # 207-364-1520  email:  info@rarewoodsusa.com They show pictures of the boards they sell, what they cost, how they rate them ( A, AB, B....), and any imperfections the board might have.  I've never been there, but I sure would like to drive up there and see the place, and, with good fortune, buy some wood.  They have an interesting website.  Are you up for a road trip Mike?  Seriously.

           There is also The Lumberyard for Model Shipwrights, Brecksville, Ohio  tel. # 440 526 2173  bodyplan@aol.com (Dave) and mrs22wood@aol.com  (place orders by talking to Dave’s wife)   They sell boxwood, but the price is steep. 1"x2"x20" for $16.  I haven't purchased boxwood from them but the other year I bought some steamed Swiss pear wood from them and I can honestly say it was the very best pear wood I've ever seen.  Perfect!  Dave and his wife are quite personable.   Call them and see if they might be open to selling you a rough cut log of Castello at a better price.  They have a pretty good gauge of the quality of the wood they sell.   I hope this helps Mike.

           Has Chuck ever put together special Chapter wood package for model builders who want to plank Winchelsea with Castello boxwood or Swiss pear wood and ONLY wish to buy the minimal amount of Alaskan yellow cedar necessary.  Can you negotiate with him?

      Your friend,


    4. Stuntflyer


      Thanks, Tom


      Has Chuck ever put together special Chapter wood package for model builders who want to plank Winchelsea with Castello boxwood or Swiss pear wood.


      Not that I know of.

  7. You did a beautiful job on that deck Mike. It's really nice! Your fellow model builders have come to expect this kind of precise workmanship from you. Tom
  8. Christian, I too wish to rig Winchelsea. Thank you for the reminder to cut out the positions of the masts in the false keel. I think I might make the holes for the masts 3-dimensional by building out on each side of the false keel. That way there isn't any wiggle room in ANY direction. I want a snug fit. Tom
  9. Ron, are you saying the mistake was what was supposed to be 1/4" planks were only 7/32"? I'm not exactly sure what you are talking about. I'm sorry you are set back to start planking anew, but it sounds like nothing short of that was going to make you happy. Going forward I have this gut feeling you will be fastidiously accurate with all measurements of model and material. I've had some setbacks myself this past week. When my back started getting worse I went to the hospital and found out my problem wasn't a bad lower back muscle strain but a ruptured disk. It looks like I will need more
  10. I hear you Ron. You certainly do have priorities other than model ship building. Cancer, Covid 19 and a disabled wife would be my primary concerns too. I know you enjoy model building a lot and I just want you to be happy. My comment about breaking the bank was said with the hope you wouldn't let money alone cloud your judgement in the best way to solve this modeling problem if you really felt it was the bulkheads. Obviously you know where and how to spend your money. I apologize if that comment came across as flippant. Tom
  11. Good luck and best wishes whatever you decide to do. Would spending money on Chuck's bulkhead set break the bank? If you can't see where you erred and don't clearly know how to rectify the problem it might be a good time to start anew. The question is, how far do you want to travel down a road that will probably not take you where you want to go. Ron, did you cut your bulkheads from Baltic birch plywood or a cheap and softer poplar core plywood? How did you transfer the shape of the bulkheads from print to wood? Did you take extreme care in the layout work, cutting them out and sanding
  12. One of the beautiful things about my solid hull building method was its stability. By suspending the hull above the building board the way I did there was absolutely NO MOVEMENT what-so-ever, and because it never moved I could use a very accurate height gauge to check EVERYTHING for accuracy against the plans. Right now I'm trying to determine how I can have a stable mounting of the hull to the building board that would be repeatable, something similar to what I had before. Yes, I still want to use that height gauge. It allowed for incredibly accurate height measurements. As long as I rea
  13. Rip it out Ron! Way more times than not, those who repair even sizeable mistakes are eventually glad they did so. Tom
  14. Well JJ, You certainly have our attention with your efforts to light up the model. I love what you're doing and can't wait to see how this turns out. This is something special! Tom
  15. Yes Richard, Chuck's precut bulkheads are 1/4" plywood, but a softer more easily sanded plywood. The 1/4"plywood I have is Baltic birch, a very hard and difficult to sand species of birch. The difference between the two plywoods, when it comes to shaping the bulkheads, is night and day. Tom
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