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About toms10

  • Birthday 09/18/1961

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Connecticut, USA
  • Interests
    Soccer, Marine reef aquariums

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  1. What a nice looking model. I think that style captures enough of the essence of the ship while saving a ton of floor space Same idea as models I have seen that are only built as half models in a longitudinal direction and then mounted on a wall like a 3D picture. Tom
  2. Thank you Bob, popeye2sea and spyglass. Once again I learn from MSW! Now that I understand what “set flying” is that is the path I must follow. Especially since the false stay is prior to the Leopard. I did not realize that when I originally came across “false stays”. Thanks again everyone, Tom
  3. Spyglass The plans came from Winfield’s book on the 50 gunship. I read somewhere (I just can’t remember where... read so much lately) that false stays are stays that are only put up temporarily while the staysails are being used. When not in use they are taken down. I am thinking that Bob’s thought about “set flying” might be correct I will need to look into that. Two of the jib sails are also shown the same way. Tom
  4. I am still searching for more information but coming up empty. Looks like it would make sense to serve and "tar" the working area and leave the section at the lower end that goes through the block and ties of to a cleat without serve and tar. Anybody? Tom
  5. Hi MSW, I have a couple of questions regarding the false stays used to attach the staysails to on my Leopard of 1790. I would like to put the main and mizzen staysails on the model. Not sure if I will furl some (probably) but anyway. I have attached a picture of a piece of my standing rigging plan to help illustrate. As the plan shows, the main top mast staysail rides on the fixed and permanent top mast stay preventer. Being permanent standing rigging this would be a tarred rope. Since the hanks will be sliding up and down this rope should that working length be served? I would imagine the same answer would apply to a false stay as shown in the picture with the top gallant staysail. Served and tarred even though they were sometimes taken down. Tom
  6. I agree with darker blocks. I stain mine with walnut colored stain before using. Tom
  7. Nice job Jim. The three beam side looks “more righter”😜. There is a bit of grammar to push my wife the English major over the edge. 😁 But as you said, it is all going to be covered anyway. Great practice and a chance to learn though. You are a better man than me. I would have left it out all together if it is going to be planked over. Tom
  8. Hey Jim you made me double check (I have some OCD issues 😜) just for fun and low and behold I did do a math error when multiplying. It is actually 2,918! Ridiculous!😃 Really like your cross section model! Tom
  9. Hi all reached another milestone today. After 2,852 clove hitches, all the main, top and futtock shroud ratlines are complete. Now I will start to work on the forestays and backstays for the top masts. Then on to the top gallant masts and rigging and finally the royal masts. Working my way through the standing rigging. At least that is the plan for now. Also still have a decent amount of work to do on the bow sprit. Really starting to enjoy the results with some of the rigging in place. Brings the model to life a bit. 👍😁 Tom
  10. If I am interpreting all this correctly someone still had to get up there to furl the royal sail before before bringing the mast down or as popeye2sea mentioned everything would get fouled up. I am starting to think that you may be correct that many models just leave out the knitted rope or ladder. I am thinking of just putting a knotted rope from the base of the royal mast down to the crosstree below. Very small detail but seems to fit. I still have plenty of time to look into this as this can be added at pretty much anytime. thank you Michael and Popeye for your help in helping me to understand. Tom
  11. Hi Michael that makes sense. My question was geared toward the royal yard on my Leopard build or any other ship of the time period for that matter. Knotted rope or rope ladder seems logical at this point. Tom
  12. Justin, yes it is my current build the Leopard circa 1790. I should have mentioned that in my question. Chris, thanks for clarifying and mentioning the book. Now of course I have to get a copy and read it in my spare time. Maybe an audio book to listen to while I model. 😁 Popeye2sea, a rope ladder is something I did not think of. It makes sense otherwise you would need to shimmy up the shroud line. Nothing I would prefer to do. 😜 Do you know of any pics showing one? Thank you all for the help. Tom
  13. I have a question about the shrouds on the top gallant masts. I noticed there are 3 shroud lines but no ratlines. If one were to lower the royal yard how do you get to it if need be? I would have thought ratlines would solve the problem but there are none shown on the plans. Understand I don’t want to tie more ratlines but it does not make sense to me. 🤔. Below is a pic of the standing rigging for the main top gallant mast. The same is shown for the fore and Mizzen masts. Any insight would be helpful. In the meantime I will look again in my limited library for any answers. Tom
  14. Little more progress. Finished the fore top mast shrouds and ratlines. I have a question about the shrouds on the top gallant masts. I noticed there are 3 shroud lines but no ratlines. If one were to lower the royal yard how do you get to it if need be? I would have thought ratlines would solve the problem but there are none shown on the plans. Understand I don’t want to tie more ratlines but it does not make sense to me. 🤔 Tom

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