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toms10

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Everything posted by toms10

  1. “Feels like she has a long way to go. However, looking back there are a lot of accomplishments. Hours spent now stand at 344. Began this Journey back on January 21st 2020. Seems like so long ago...” John, 7 1/2 months... are you kidding!? I’ve been plugging along on my Leopard for 3 1/2 years! Your Morgan looks absolutely great. I hope mine comes out as good when I get to it. Tom
  2. What a nice looking model. I think that style captures enough of the essence of the ship while saving a ton of floor space Same idea as models I have seen that are only built as half models in a longitudinal direction and then mounted on a wall like a 3D picture. Tom
  3. Thank you Bob, popeye2sea and spyglass. Once again I learn from MSW! Now that I understand what “set flying” is that is the path I must follow. Especially since the false stay is prior to the Leopard. I did not realize that when I originally came across “false stays”. Thanks again everyone, Tom
  4. Spyglass The plans came from Winfield’s book on the 50 gunship. I read somewhere (I just can’t remember where... read so much lately) that false stays are stays that are only put up temporarily while the staysails are being used. When not in use they are taken down. I am thinking that Bob’s thought about “set flying” might be correct I will need to look into that. Two of the jib sails are also shown the same way. Tom
  5. I am still searching for more information but coming up empty. Looks like it would make sense to serve and "tar" the working area and leave the section at the lower end that goes through the block and ties of to a cleat without serve and tar. Anybody? Tom
  6. Hi MSW, I have a couple of questions regarding the false stays used to attach the staysails to on my Leopard of 1790. I would like to put the main and mizzen staysails on the model. Not sure if I will furl some (probably) but anyway. I have attached a picture of a piece of my standing rigging plan to help illustrate. As the plan shows, the main top mast staysail rides on the fixed and permanent top mast stay preventer. Being permanent standing rigging this would be a tarred rope. Since the hanks will be sliding up and down this rope should that working length be served? I would imagine the same answer would apply to a false stay as shown in the picture with the top gallant staysail. Served and tarred even though they were sometimes taken down. Tom
  7. I agree with darker blocks. I stain mine with walnut colored stain before using. Tom
  8. Nice job Jim. The three beam side looks “more righter”😜. There is a bit of grammar to push my wife the English major over the edge. 😁 But as you said, it is all going to be covered anyway. Great practice and a chance to learn though. You are a better man than me. I would have left it out all together if it is going to be planked over. Tom
  9. Hey Jim you made me double check (I have some OCD issues 😜) just for fun and low and behold I did do a math error when multiplying. It is actually 2,918! Ridiculous!😃 Really like your cross section model! Tom
  10. Hi all reached another milestone today. After 2,852 clove hitches, all the main, top and futtock shroud ratlines are complete. Now I will start to work on the forestays and backstays for the top masts. Then on to the top gallant masts and rigging and finally the royal masts. Working my way through the standing rigging. At least that is the plan for now. Also still have a decent amount of work to do on the bow sprit. Really starting to enjoy the results with some of the rigging in place. Brings the model to life a bit. 👍😁 Tom
  11. If I am interpreting all this correctly someone still had to get up there to furl the royal sail before before bringing the mast down or as popeye2sea mentioned everything would get fouled up. I am starting to think that you may be correct that many models just leave out the knitted rope or ladder. I am thinking of just putting a knotted rope from the base of the royal mast down to the crosstree below. Very small detail but seems to fit. I still have plenty of time to look into this as this can be added at pretty much anytime. thank you Michael and Popeye for your help in helping me to understand. Tom
  12. Hi Michael that makes sense. My question was geared toward the royal yard on my Leopard build or any other ship of the time period for that matter. Knotted rope or rope ladder seems logical at this point. Tom
  13. Justin, yes it is my current build the Leopard circa 1790. I should have mentioned that in my question. Chris, thanks for clarifying and mentioning the book. Now of course I have to get a copy and read it in my spare time. Maybe an audio book to listen to while I model. 😁 Popeye2sea, a rope ladder is something I did not think of. It makes sense otherwise you would need to shimmy up the shroud line. Nothing I would prefer to do. 😜 Do you know of any pics showing one? Thank you all for the help. Tom
  14. I have a question about the shrouds on the top gallant masts. I noticed there are 3 shroud lines but no ratlines. If one were to lower the royal yard how do you get to it if need be? I would have thought ratlines would solve the problem but there are none shown on the plans. Understand I don’t want to tie more ratlines but it does not make sense to me. 🤔. Below is a pic of the standing rigging for the main top gallant mast. The same is shown for the fore and Mizzen masts. Any insight would be helpful. In the meantime I will look again in my limited library for any answers. Tom
  15. Little more progress. Finished the fore top mast shrouds and ratlines. I have a question about the shrouds on the top gallant masts. I noticed there are 3 shroud lines but no ratlines. If one were to lower the royal yard how do you get to it if need be? I would have thought ratlines would solve the problem but there are none shown on the plans. Understand I don’t want to tie more ratlines but it does not make sense to me. 🤔 Tom
  16. Wefalck, as a tooling design engineer I agree with you. Simpler is always better. Less moving parts with fewer critical dimensions means less that can go wrong. I often ask myself after I complete a design “Why did I make this so complicated?” Kris, with that being said, I am enjoying following this DIY sander. It is way better than the one I came up with. Oh wait I did come up with one. 😜. I like watching ideas come to life. Thanks for sharing. It is how we all learn. Tom
  17. Jim Those louvers came out really nice. You are making me want to do a cross section model! I love all the details that are not normally seen in a model ship. Very interesting and educational. Keep up the fantastic work. Tom
  18. Hi Bob thanks for helping out with the canvas explanation. It sure does explain a lot. Learning as I go. Tom
  19. Hi John i did some checking on the canvas roof for the hurricane house. As ragove mentioned in his post theModel Shipway plans say to cover on canvas. I am not sure off the top of my head but I believe the Shipway plans are from about 1939. Unfortunately when I was aboard her last summer I did not get a good pic of the hurricane house and I don’t remember what the roof was made of. I also checked in the book “The Charles W. Morgan” by Leavitt. I could not find any reference to the roof material however, I did see a couple of pictures that lead me to believe it was not canvas. Below is a picture taken in 1903 on top of the hurricane house. Look below the kid’s left foot and you will see there are wooden planks. In another undated photo presumably after 1903 as it comes slightly later in the book, a man is photographed standing on the roof. If it was canvas I doubt he would be up there even if he were just walking on the framing. Hmmm. When did the canvas come into the picture if it did at all. It must have around 1939 or why would the put it on the plans as this does not seem to be the norm? I am not sure what my plan is going to be yet. Build her as she sits in Mystic or as close to “as built” as I can get. If it is “as built” there was no hurricane house so the question goes away. I will also need to get the correct plans from Mystic. I am heavily leaning towards as she sits today. Looking forward to comparing your plans with the Shipways plans I have. part of the fun in this hobby is the research. 😁 Tom
  20. Hi James, Welcome. I am CT yankee... at least until I retire in 8 years. This is a great site where everyone helps everyone. I have learned tons here. Tom
  21. Nice job John. I just finished tying 2100 clove hitches on my lower and futtock shrouds for my Leopard. With the Morgan being my next build, those battens are looking pretty good. Tom
  22. Hi Jack, Just catching up on your build. It's coming along great. Sorry to hear about your helper. Tom
  23. I use either an #11 exacting or more often just a paint scraper that fits a razor blade. Chop it with the razor blade close then use a sanding stick to bring it to size and the correct shape. Tom
  24. Havelock, It is Jim (Bluto 1790) that is doing the jaw dropping work. I am just as blown away as you.! Tom

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