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Everything posted by toms10

  1. Thank you everyone, I did go with the sheer poles for two reasons. First, as everybody mentioned, there is no definitive answer so go with what you think. Secondly and probably most important, I had already installed 4 of them before I started reading about them. 🙂 Previously, I was just looking at other models and mechanically thought it just made sense to have them. They are now part of my model. Thanks again for checking me. Tom
  2. Hi all I got to spend some time Time on my build amid all the spring yard work and planting. I rigged up the anchors along with the anchor bouys. The bouys are currently attached to the anchors but the lines are just laying on the deck until I get the first few rat lines installed. Then I can mount the bouys to those and the shear pole. I put a question out there regarding the shear poles in the mast and rigging section but did not get any responses. Also got the Mizzen mast and fore and main topmasts in place. I plan on attacking the Mizzen shrouds next and the the rest of the masts so I can work on the standing rigging some more. This is what she looks like to date. Just need to find some blocks of time to keep plugging away at her. Tom
  3. Hi Aon Sometimes the history research can be just as rewarding as building the model itself. My hat’s off to you for taking this project to another level that is not always done...at least to the depth you have done. Tom
  4. Hi MSW i have a question about whether it would be correct to use a wooden shear pole at the base of the shrouds on my 1797 HMS Leopard. I have seen pics with wood and just a rope for the first ratline. Monfeld’s book Historic Ship Models shows a picture of one page 285 but it says 19th century in the caption. The futtock staves seem to be rope and not wood in the brief text on page 282. Can these be wood if the shear pole is wood? just trying to make it as right as my talents will allow. Tom
  5. Okay. So the pin idea worked. The shank and flukes are now 90* from the stock. I used a .025 dia brass nail and snipped the head off. Drilled a hole in the end of the skank and underside of the stock. Pressed in the pin and glued. Much better than making it all over. I need to stop working on the model late at night. Sometimes the brain shuts off but forgets to tell you. 😜. Thanks again to Beef Wellington for pointing this out to me. Tom
  6. Hi Beef! Thanks for pointing that out. I also realized this the next morning when I looked at it again. Something didn’t quite look right and when I looked at the picture in the book ... duh. Luckily I only assembled that one before I slapped my forehead and called myself things I care not to put in print here. 🤬🤬. I have not worked on them for a few days because of a 5 yard pile of mulch that l needed to get off my driveway and into the landscaping beds. That is done so now I can figure out how to hopefully fix the problem without going through build another set of components. I am thinking maybe cutting off the shank flush with the underside of the stock and then pinning the two back together at the proper angle. If it doesn’t work oh well. That is why I have extra wood. 😜 Tom
  7. Here is one of 4 anchors. It is all wood except for the blackened brass bands and the rope covered ring. I used the size formulas laid out in Mondfeld’s Historic Ship Models to get the size. At first it seemed very large but when I temporarily placed it on the bow and looked at other models of the Leopard it looked OK. I guess I never realized how big these things were! Now I need to make 3 more just like it😜. Stay safe Tom
  8. Did a bit more work this weekend. Attached the main and fore stays and snaked with the preventers. Also rigged the boomkins. I think I going to change gears a bit now and work on the anchors and their rigging. Tom
  9. Came across this in the comics today. For those of us who have cats beware. 😀 I know of somebody that this actually happen to. His finished model lasted about 1/2 a day. Now it is on display as a model of a shipwreck. I wasn’t sure if laughing was appropriate but what else can you do? Tom
  10. Leopard I asked the same question in an earlier post. I researched and found nothing. If anyone has any info please share. Maybe she is trained in using a defibrillator! The picture reveals that I have to do some more smoothing and shaping to do. Every time I look at it I think i can do better. I guess that means I am not totally satisfied and will work on it some more. This could go on for a forever! Well at least until I am tired of fussing with it. I am going to go for a couple mile run now; maybe it will look better when I get back? 😜😁 Tom
  11. So here is my figurehead as it stands today and probably forever. It is not glued on yet so I have time to think about it. It is not terrible i am am actually okay with it. I don’t see it winning too many sculpting honors but I don’t think I will be losing much sleep. 😜 Suggestion are always welcome. Tom
  12. Thanks everyone, looks like I am going with my original gut feeling, the subtle color theme. Siggi, it is intended to be the 1790 version ... at least to the best of my abilities. Tom
  13. Don’t remember any rules that say you can’t have eggs, jelly beans and chocolate later this year! 🤣
  14. Hi MSW I need an opinion on the color of my figurehead. I could go all one color with antique gold. or I could go with antique gold hair, a buff color for skin and a sea foam green for the dress. I think if I went with the green I would darken it just a bit. I like the little splash of color. It brings a focal point to the overall model. Bear in mind the final sculpture is much better than this one in my opinion. This one is one of my earlier attempts and practice working with Sculpey clay. Just using it to play with for now. What does everyone think color wise? Does anyone have a different idea? Remember I am not an artist! Tom
  15. I spread lawn fertilizer for an hour. Backer and I must belong to the same cult. Now I am going to kill a bottle of wine and a chocolate rabbit. ☺️ Tom
  16. Okay. So in these troubled times I figured everyone could use a chuckle or two. Here is a very rough outline of my first attempt at sculpting my figurehead. It’s okay to laugh; I did. It would still need a good bit of sanding and filing after baking but then again I have a whole 1 hour of experience. This could take a while. Good thing I have enough Sculpy to make 20 more! Then i can pick and choose. In reference to my previous post, Michael Angelo... your job is safe. Smile and enjoy. 😁😜 Tom
  17. Hi Jim The rats nest hanging from the fore top looks a lot worse than it is. As for the sand castles... the tide came in 😭. I have been snooping and know you are doing a Leopard cross section. You just can’t get enough of this boat can you! 😁 Tom
  18. Amidst the C-19 chaos I managed to get in a little modeling. I got the lower shrouds for the main and fore masts installed. Also have the main and fore stays and preventers made. Just need to tie them to the bow sprit and then snake them. That should be fun. I also managed to get the bow sprit glued in and attached the hearts for the stays and other standing rigging. Boomkins are dry fit for now. I think it is time for me to put on my sculpting hat and get the figurehead completed. Right now there is just a rough 5 minute attempt out of play-doh for spacing. My sculpting endeavors are not all that extensive unless you count the sand castles 🏰 at the beach! This should be fun. Michael Angelo move over - there’s a new kid in town. 😜😁. Below are some progress pics. Stay safe everyone and happy modeling! Tom
  19. I am half Hungarian so when I saw the title of this thread I got all excited. There are some amazing models shown but I did notice only one sailing ship. Okay I know, being a land locked country probably hampered their quest to build a formidable armada. They could have built one first rate and just anchored it in the Danube? Ha ha ha. Tom
  20. Hi Learner, Thanks for feedback. I am way past the lighting stage. That needed to be completed before the hull was closed up. To your point though, there are only a few yellow lights to somewhat illuminate the lower decks. They actually look like candle illumination. You can't see the LED bulbs, they are hidden behind walls and I am bouncing the light off of the surfaces to tone them down. Tom
  21. Thank you everyone for your input. As always, I learn from the MSW site. It seems to me that the majority of information points to putting it at the top of the gaff. That doesn't make it right as Druxey points out only a time machine would settle the point. I just happen to notice this situation as I am getting ready to make all the yards. I intend to put sails on her so she would be out to sea. Based on all the info above I am thinking about going with the ensign at the gaff peak. I am still a ways off from this point in my model construction so I will have plenty of time to change my more than once.🙂 Tom
  22. I have a question regarding the stern flag pole on my HMS Leopard rigging plans. The standing rigging plan shows what I believe to be a flag pole mounted to the stern. Seems reasonable until I look at the running rigging plan and see see that the spanker boom runs out past it. How does the spanker boom go past center when rigged to the port or starboard side? Far from a rigging expert, what am I missing? Standing rigging plan running rigging plan Any help would be appreciated. Tom
  23. Just received my copy. Looks like it contains some useful and practical info on how certain tasks were accomplished by this particular scratch modeler. Looks like I have some decent reading material for those rare times when I actually take a lunch hour😁 Thanks again for the recommendation Bob. 👍 Tom
  24. Ondras, Very nice work on this model. I have this on my list of possible future builds. Your work is pushing this model higher up on my list. Keep up the great work and keep sharing pics. Tom

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