Jump to content

jbwok

Members
  • Posts

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Scotland

Recent Profile Visitors

216 profile views
  1. Thanks once again: I'm off to the garage to try this. Foolishly I started this job on the starboard side, which is the one I'm planning to display, and I fear even substantial amounts of paint aren't going to cover the mess I've made. It's a shame the Warrior never fought a battle, as I could have done a post-engagement version!
  2. It's a pleasure to see your super work as usual - the bridge looks fantastic! I regret, though, that I have another plea for help. Although I haven't been updating my page I have a reasonable hull now, but as I struggle with the chain plates I'm slowly messing it back up again. I notice you say you'd pinned them - can I ask how you did that, given how narrow they are, and what did you use for pins? I've tried glueing them, but it looks terrible and then springs off...
  3. Thanks, Popeye, although I'm not sure what you mean about the stern fascia? On my kit there were just big rectangular holes in all five window parts, including the stern, for which I have had to make pane dividers for as in my photo above.
  4. I am going to be boring about windows. First, the pane layout shown in the instructions is wrong; there is only one horizontal piece and two vertical ones in each window. See the page from the wonderful book by Davies and Dennison attached. Second, using pen to draw the lines on the windows is not going to look very good, particularly as some of the windows are actually fake and should have a blank background. So I've rooted in my spare wood drawer for some thin strip and started doing the frames properly. So basically the whole of Figure 8 is tosh. At least it's a break from sanding the hull, which is now about a micron thick and entirely composed of filler.
  5. Hi Stuart - according to the photos of the Warrior in the book by Davies and Dennison the races sit on top of the deck.
  6. Hi Nils - as you were kind enough to visit my log, I couldn't resist having a look at your builds, and I'm really impressed. Such wonderful work!
  7. Hi Nils - thanks for the encouragement! The way I feel about the planking at the moment is that I'm never going to get it right! Perhaps another couple of hundred hours or so... I just can't wait to have the hull finished so I can start on all the fun bits. Stuart - I think tomorrow may be given over to preparing a cunning smoothing tool for inside curves which may end up looking VERY LIKE sandpaper wrapped round a pencil!
  8. Nearly five weeks into the sanding/filling, and going mad... I have painted it with primer to give me an idea of how I was coming along (it was difficult to get an idea from looking at the small patches of wood between the massive swathes of filler) and find I've done a reasonable job on the flat and convex sections, but I'm really struggling at the stern. Every time I try to shape the shaft fairing I create a worse and worse mess! Anyone got any useful advice?
  9. Hi - the sanding block has worked for all the flat and convex bits, but I'm struggling with the concave curves at the stern. I'll take your advice, though, and put up some photos on my pages and see what other people suggest. I've never come across Billings paints (and my son works in a model shop!) - I'll probably just use a Tamiya gloss black.
  10. Good to hear from you again! I'm really struggling to get a smooth hull despite four weeks of continuous sanding, filling, sanding, filling...! I've bought the red paint to encourage myself that I'm getting near the point I can use it, but it ain't happening until I can sort the area around the stern. Incidentally, which black did you use?
  11. Hi Gary, good to hear from you: I wish I'd used balsa blocks from the start as it would have made shaping the planks much easier. As it is I'm getting better at the planking as it as I go along (about 12 to go), so I may end up with a finished product which can only be viewed from the starboard side! I like the idea of having the citadel open, and thanks for the hint on the barrel lengths - does the same apply to the 40pdr guns which had the same nominal length of 120 inches as the 100 pdr?
  12. Hi popeye Thanks for getting in touch - the plans aren't that great, if I'm honest! If you're interested, you should have a look at StuartC's log - he's a lot further ahead than me, and doing a terrific job.
  13. Here's a picture of the little supports which I'm using to bridge the gaps. I've now reached a point where they're useful between almost every bulkhead.
  14. Hi Stockholm tar Thanks for getting in touch. The spacing is indeed a problem; the worst section is the one between the 4th and 5th frames from the stern, which are nearly 140mm apart, just at the point where the shape is starting to get very complex. To get round this I'm gluing small strips of thin wood inside the midpoints of the more curved planks to keep the edges aligned, and this tends to mean I have to wait for each one to dry before I do the next one. It's a very slow way of doing things, but I wish I'd done more of it on the side I've already done as there's a bit of sagging between frames which I've going to have to sort out. You'll see that I've also placed a couple of wooden blocks to strengthen the keel between these frames as the join was otherwise very weak. Another frame at this point would have been a big help - new builders please note that if I was building the model again I would have put one in.
  15. Port side planked, awaiting sanding and filling; cannon in place (as ship completed rather than later arrangement); scrap wood support added to stop them falling inside the hull later...
×
×
  • Create New...