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russ

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About russ

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    Male
  • Location
    Biloxi, Mississippi
  • Interests
    Reading, research, and ship modeling

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  22. russ
    Matt: You are off and running. I agree that the fairing process is not complete, but it is not a bad thing. We have all been there before I assure you. I would suggest removing the planks and doing some more sanding and checking before you begin again. That might sound drastic, but you can get extra planking strips from a local hobby or craft store if you need to. A small block of wood with some sanding paper wrapped around it or even rubber cemented to it will do the job of fairing. You can use a strip to check against the hull as you go. Sand a little and check, and then sa
  23. russ
    Peter: Very nice job. I have been looking in on this build over time and your finished model is very nice. Congratulations. Russ
  24. russ
    I agree that the netting looks very good. I have run the line across a hot light bulb and had good results. The heat melts the beeswax into the line. Russ
  25. russ
    Andy: I would start with square stock and mark out the lines to make it octagonal and then round it out to make your spar. You can do this with careful marking with a sharp pencil and work with a file to make it octagonal. You can then finish it by hand sanding or by chucking the piece into a power drill and using sandpaper to round it and taper it. There are several different methods you can use. The main thing is that the square stock has the grain running along its length. With a dowel, the grain could be running in any direction which is one reason why it warps.
  26. russ
    Your model is looking really good. Nice work. As for those pesky dowels, I am not a fan for the very reason you state, but if you must have them, then check the local craft stores like Michaels or Hobby Lobby etc. Russ
  27. russ
    Bill: Nice to see you back at it. Great work as usual. Russ
  28. russ
    Kurt: It has been a while since I looked at Pete's builds. Keep in mind, the margin plank and the covering board are two completely different pieces. In any case, build the model as you like. Have fun. Russ
  29. russ
    Kurt: Most margin planks I have seen had the scarph joint to connect them, regardless of the nibbing. If you can, look at some specific examples of boats like what you are modeling and perhaps that would clear it up. Russ
  30. russ
    Biddlecombe has tables for a schooner's rigging. That is where the value is. Russ
  31. russ
    Sam: I would think that would work out okay. You might consult Biddlecombe since it is a little later and has more information on the schooner rig. Russ
  32. russ
    Sam: The lower gaff that you have circled is probably the fore gaff for the foresail. This is a regular part of the schooner rig. That foresail is loose footed with no boom. Ideally, it would be peaked up at a higher angle than what is shown. The foresail would be brailed up when furled. The fore and aft main sail could be furled by lowering the gaff or by brailing. If this was a brig rig, the that mainsail would be the spanker or driver sail. In the schooner rig, it is the mainsail. The other ones circled further up, I have no idea. Russ
  33. russ
    Well, you have gone and done it now!!! Your hull looks like it will come together nicely. This has been very interesting to watch so far. Thanks. I will look forward to following your progress. Russ
  34. russ
    Sam: That looks very good. Will you add any cleats to the gaffs to keep the halyard blocks in place? Russ
  35. russ
    Sam: Your rigging looks pretty good to my eye. Go with what you got I say. Russ
  36. russ
    Chuck: This will be a beautiful model and a project that modelers will enjoy. I think the planking will be especially nice on this hull. Russ

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