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About russ

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    Special Contributor

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  • Location
    Biloxi, Mississippi
  • Interests
    Reading, research, and ship modeling

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  1. Kurt: It has been a while since I looked at Pete's builds. Keep in mind, the margin plank and the covering board are two completely different pieces. In any case, build the model as you like. Have fun. Russ
  2. Kurt: Most margin planks I have seen had the scarph joint to connect them, regardless of the nibbing. If you can, look at some specific examples of boats like what you are modeling and perhaps that would clear it up. Russ
  3. Biddlecombe has tables for a schooner's rigging. That is where the value is. Russ
  4. Sam: I would think that would work out okay. You might consult Biddlecombe since it is a little later and has more information on the schooner rig. Russ
  5. Sam: The lower gaff that you have circled is probably the fore gaff for the foresail. This is a regular part of the schooner rig. That foresail is loose footed with no boom. Ideally, it would be peaked up at a higher angle than what is shown. The foresail would be brailed up when furled. The fore and aft main sail could be furled by lowering the gaff or by brailing. If this was a brig rig, the that mainsail would be the spanker or driver sail. In the schooner rig, it is the mainsail. The other ones circled further up, I have no idea. Russ
  6. Well, you have gone and done it now!!! Your hull looks like it will come together nicely. This has been very interesting to watch so far. Thanks. I will look forward to following your progress. Russ
  7. Sam: That looks very good. Will you add any cleats to the gaffs to keep the halyard blocks in place? Russ
  8. Sam: Your rigging looks pretty good to my eye. Go with what you got I say. Russ
  9. Chuck: This will be a beautiful model and a project that modelers will enjoy. I think the planking will be especially nice on this hull. Russ
  10. I have had good results shaping the plank, soaking the plank in hot water, clamping in place on the hull, and then gluing it after it dries. This might take a little more time, but sometimes slow is good. Russ
  11. Aircraft grade plywood like Baltic Birch would be good. Even at 1/8" it has many plys and there are hardly any voids. It is generally stable and good for this sort of work. That said, basswood would work as well. It will be easier to sand when it comes time to fair up the hull before planking. The plywood will be more difficult to sand. Russ
  12. For those who might be curious, where in the archival collection are those plans? Once you click on the link provided, where do you go from there? Russ
  13. Maury: On the centerboard schooner models I have planked, the side view generally as a slight upward sweep coming into the stem, but if you turn the model over and look at it from the bottom, the planks will curve inward at the stem. Thus, the actual shape will have a slight S shape, but not as much as what I am seeing in your planking. A lot of this has to do with how the hull is lined off. Druxey's illustration should point the way. As for drop planks, on a hull such as this, I have never seen a drop plank used. On a fuller bow shape it is sometimes necessary to drop a plank. Our local builders would trim down to a minimum of 3-4 inches at the stem, but the strake could have a max width of maybe 7-9 inches. The planking rule you speak of had a lot of elasticity. Russ
  14. John: I am looking forward to seeing this hull planked. It should be really nice. Russ
  15. I know Syren is a US company and I think Crown Timber Yard is as well. Russ

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