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  1. Another lesson to take from this construction exercise is that at small scale, whenever there are many similar small parts in close proximity, a jig or some kind of guide is a great deal of help, almost essential, for good alignment. At small scale any amount of misalignment stands out like a sore thumb. Chazz
  2. Hi Chuck, I don't make paper models so I don't know whether my 2 cents will apply, but... There are (at least) two possible alternatives you might consider. One is Fabri-tak, a hard-drying rubber cement sort of stuff sold in fabric stores for doing seams, attaching decorations and such work. I have used it to lay down the hems of sails and attach cords for stitching on bolt ropes; and some tacking jobs for further gluing. It does not stain, even dress fabrics, it dries very fast..30 seconds or so, and it dries hard, not sticky like rubber cement, and it is claimed
  3. John, I don't know what kind of tape you used, but in addition to sticky pads there are many types of tape, such as paper masking tape, paper medical tape, write-on Scotch tape and so forth. It is good to consider how the tape will react to the surface whenever you use it, especially for masking out paint spray, etc.. For example, drafting tape looks much like masking tape but sticks much tighter and may well pull off the finish beneath it. The blue painters tape is even gentler....sometime too much so. Chazz
  4. Chair cane is the material cane-seat chair seats and backs are woven from, It is grows as a a vine from which the outer skin is made into smaller strips...you've seen it many times but maybe never noticed it, If you can't find an old chair, the material is available on-line or in hobby stores, Relatively cheap. Chazz
  5. Here's another unorthodox solution: chair cane. This comes in various sizes and is naturally light color but can be dyed or painted. It can be tied in knots when soaked in water (literally). The top surface is shiny but can be sanded down if desired. It can also be sanded to narrower size as needed. Do all work on the cane before soaking. Then soak in plain water for 5 to 10 minutes and wrap around your mast and clamp loosely until dry. It will hold its shape when dry and can be given its final dress-up. Chazz
  6. The wire in kits is often too soft to hold a straight shape very long, even if you can get it so. I found a good source of nice straight fairly well-tempered wire is wire brushes, the kind used for scrubbing. They come in different sizes and the wire can be bent easily with pliers to fairly sharp angles. The biggest problem is the wires are fairly short pieces, at least in reasonably priced (for this use) brushes.
  7. You can use a rotary tool to help in the forming of the small cleats if you use diamond bits or rotary stones...they cut slower and leave a fine finish, especially the stones. And they have curves that fit well to some of the cleat curves. But DON'T use regular steel cutters.
  8. For small blocks, like 1/16 or 1/8 in., with wire strops, there is little need for an explicit eye. Strop the block without an eye and drill a tiny hole (#76 or #80 bit) at the ****end or otherwise work a hole with a pin or other sharp tool. The wire can be forced out some if you'd like a little more explicit look to the block. You can also put a wire at the end of the block and run the strop wire over it, but I find thar a little unnecessary work. Chazz
  9. There's really no point in overdoing this. Although its better to remove (some) paint, all that is needed is a little scratch or a tiny hole in the deck where the wheels touch. And just slide the guns around on some sandpaper to remove the paint from them. Chazz
  10. Just get a cheap pair of needlenose pliers and file down one point to what you need. Since the points are tapered, you can make several sizes of eyes from one point by using a spot further up or down the jaw. Chazz
  11. Y.T., I'm not good at adding sketches at midnight. Just take two strips of some material of the right thickness, like brass shims, 1/2 mm. thick in this case, lay them side by side on your work surface to act as a depth gauge, hold your work piece close between them and scrape it down with a flat edge such as an Xacto blade or single edge razor blade, With the 1 mm. strip you already it should be easy work. Sandpaper might also work. The brass (or other strips of material) are guides to keep from going too deep as well as support the work both flat and side to si
  12. Y.T., One reason you can't file a smooth form is that even the finer files have teeth that are separated by most of half a millimeter and catch on the thin edge of your workpiece. Try a fine diamond file. An alternative is to use a tiny Dremel rotary bit. Because the bit rotates more or less in line with the workpiece, it won't catch as much' However, I think you'll have a lot of trouble making a strip as small as half a millimeter. I'd use a flat edge of a scraper and a piece of your 1 mm stock and just cut it down. If you have a couple of pieces of metal of
  13. Hi Al, You're probably trying too hard. These tools are relatively slow workers but they can do a good job. These purchased tools per se, which I have never used (just file my own in some scrap from a tin can or old razor blade), are probably sharp enough but just make sure. Rub the flat side on a stone or some very fine wet or dry sandpaper if needed. Then hold the tool a a 45 deg or so angle and work slowly, not trying for too much of a cut at once. Chazz
  14. Maybe it would just be better to bite the bullet and get a quieter vacuum! By the time you finish the suggested installation you'll probably spend about as much as a new machine would cost...never mind the work. And would the installation even work as well? Then you might sell the one you have now Chazz
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