Krelis

Thank you mtaylor... I'm also happy to be back on MSW
 
So... time to arm a little bit this small vessel
 
Gun barrel was casted with silver and brass alloy... blackening made using solution of selenium acid...
Parts of gun carriage was photoetched in argentan.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...almost finished gun carriage... without cap square and securing clamps for the gun barrel trunnion... these elements I'll install later... almost on the end to avoid guns breaking in gunports...
 

 

 

 

 

 
These set of guns carriage is only part of full armament... sixth from fourteenth are hidding bellow quarter and forecastle decks...
 

 
... fast method of hooks making...
 

 

 
Hidden gun carriage with tackles... I'm not happy with these tackles...  but good riddance no body gonna see them :P
Next tackle rope are thiner...
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Foremast... I'm building model using enlarge cardboard model  from 1/96 to 1/48.
 
Ok, time to show you carvings... made from pau marfin...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...parrot after wax mixture...
 

 
 

After when planking and imitation of nailing was finished I started cover model using wax mixture. Pear got really noble and old coloure...I love it!!
 

 

 

 

 
...and some progress
 

 

 

 
... head gratings, rails and toilets
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...by the way wales was covered using solution of birch tar and terpentine
 

 
 
 
 
 

In fact hanging models from a ceiling is an old Dutch protestant trick to lure people into looking upwards, to the heavens I guess, so called "Church Models"
 

Ok trial number 4:
 
Took a monogram and sank it by half into a poly ...
 

 
... broke it out ...
 

 
... and took the poly as holder to file down the backsides of the monograms down to half ...
 
... and bingo :-)
 
Some other side theaters of war ...
 
... rolled the wire for the thread rod with the filr to give it some structure ...
 

 
... and carved the bearings of the trunnion out of Evergreen.
 

 
On the last picture one can see that the sliding part has to slide over the mounts of the wheels, so it means, they have to be flush in the surface.
 
So marked the position on the circle ...
 
 
 
... and used a dummy for testing. First drilled a basic hole ...
 

 
... ground a old scalpel into shape ...
 

 
... and formed the drilled hole.
 

 
And the trials shows that it fits :-)
 

 
So assembled the carriage and barrel, splashed some paint onto it, fitted the appropriate eyebolts and it looks ok ;-)
 
Old and new side by side ...
 

 
... old - once state of the art -  ...
 

 
... and a bit pimped ...
 

 
... and it seems quite ok :-)
 
XXXDAn

Thank you Frank!
 
On the last picture one can see something, that I was bothering about since some time.
 
The monogram appears sitting quite thickly on the barrel. I already used the thinnest material available from my supplier, 0,2 mm equals 2 cm in original. The original monogram is about 5 to 10 mm mm but has much more washed outlines.
 
Time to tinker a bit and to see what still is possible :-)
 
Two versions were spooking around my wired minds for some time - lets go for the phantoms :-)
 
Version 1 sinking the monograms with a soldering iron. 
 

 
Worked surprisingly well, it was quite easy to sink it evenly ...
 
... until I saw the bulges of diplaced material all around. Difficult to take out, ok forget it. 
 
Version 2 were thin castings, like those I do successfully for the coat of arms of the entry port.
 
Took two monograms and hammered them into the poly ...
 

 
... casted twice ...  
 

 
... but missing a good form success was not coming. Some carvings of the form did not help.
 

 
Then came version 3, gluing the monograms and filing the edges off.
 
Looked great without color but with color splashed over ...
 

 
... merda ...
 
...

Hi Igor
 
... "the idea of Colin Archer in a bottle doesn't leave me" ...
 
My recommendation: "Let's do it!"   
 
Best regards!
Mike

Thanks to all for the likes and comments
I have not been able to spend much time in the shipyard this last few weeks, but things have improved a great deal this week, Judy is home now.
 
I did manage to get some time today to make some changes to the spark plugs. I was not happy about the way the plug were integrated into the head structure so after a couple of experiments I now have proper spark plugs they are made from some Allen key, that I annealed.
 

 
The thread is a 6x40 I had to make them long reach which meant it was a bit tricky drilling a .028" hole almost 1/2 inch long through the Corian core which is only .078" diameter.
 

 
The hand shot for scale
 

 
The brass now functions as it was intended to hold down the oval cap to enclose the water cavity, and the spark plug threads into it.
 

 

 

 
All I have to do now is add a brass  0 x 80 or a 00x90 threaded section to the top of the electrode in order the be able to make a good positive connection with the ignition cables. i will need to see how easy it is with the 00x90 which is a better scale size.
 
Michael
 

Oh, sweet taste of re-do

Technics and method are ok, but drawing is wrong.

In patience. Just inpatient. Once again. I draw main lines with graphite pen, and jumped over next step - to bold them before starting with clay, so, without continuous keeping of one eye to photo, I just missed right shape and look I want. Working with this little pieces of clay just occupied my attention, and I just follow wrong lines. See what I have done during making photos

With toothpick apply thin line of thinned wood glue, pick pieces of clay with same toothpick and just put it on the glued line, and after a while just fix relief with little drops of acrylic. I used gold in intend to be easier to see relief when paint surface black


Acrylic applied in dots hardened and help to fill spaces between pieces of clay, and to make all relief more consistent, and also every next layers rise up relief a bit

.. and I think the test was a success...
 
(Don't try this at home... )
 
 
 
 
 

Moving through the paces required to get it done with the (un)available materials. She's a tough cookie this one ... You have got some more undamaged pieces than I. Looking good ... curious as to the next results ...

Long time since my last post, had a stay in The Netherlands, and bought myself some walnut and some of the Corel Green Stuff, to replace the green planks in the kit. Must say, present day Corel green planks are much better quality then the ones I found with the kit, less neon like green, much smoother finish. Also find the new wood much less prone to splintering and breaking than the 30 year old wood that is included in the kit. Makes you wonder about shelf life. Its not only the woods, over the decades some of the "gold" ornaments have become seriously corroded. Had a bit of an issue bringing the wood to Curacao, the 0.5 mm strips and 5 mm sticks were a bit too long to fit in my bag, so I bundled them together with rubber bands to take as hand baggage..The resulting "stick"  worried the check in lady, she thought it looked like a weapon and thought it might not pass security, however, at the gate the security guy did not  blink an eye. I have a history with air port authorities, but the stress moment passed.  Anyways, I used the new wood  to replace the green planking I had already glued to the model, demolished the inner bulwarks for which I had invented home made walnut (see previous post), lowered the bull warks, sanded them to right whith again and plastered them with real walnut. I then made a walnut caprail  instead of using the "flexible beach" included in the kit, here is the grainy result.

 
Making the cap rail took me a lot of time, 2x 5 walnut is not what you call flexible, I had to assemble the 2x5's in 2x10's and make bow pieces from these

while for the really tight bends I fell back on laminating 0.5 mm walnut strips

 
 
With the cap rail in place I now have to confront the bow and stern design, the Corel drawings leave room for improvement
Corel bow design

instructions for the stern, the windows in the metal ornament are way to big.

Please note Corels depiction of the rudder hinges, the rudder would fall straight to the bottom of the ocean.
 
To solve my bow problem I start with lowering the bowsprit height to make it fit under the cap rail..

 
The situation at the stern, the kits instruction are simple: just glue on the metal ornament..

If you want to understand Witsens description of 17th century shipbuilding  you should not read Witsen but: 
A.J. Hoving, G.A. de Weerdt, G.J.D. Wildeman, Nicolaes Witsens Scheeps-bouw-konst open gesteltIf I remember correctly it took them like 10 years to decipher Witsen, and they read Dutch.
 

There is a drop of truth in your words David.

Admiral insists for some of my paintings to be hanged on a walls in our home

(better paintings than me ...  )










As youth, I won on some local compettitions playing classic guitar music ( Asturias, Requerdos de la Alhambra, HVLobos prelude, JSBach ...), wrote poetry and novels, ....

But I realised early that only few can live from art, and I am not that kind of artist and man, have foots hard connected to earth

And here I am now, missed enginier, missed artist, shipmodeler in trying, happy attorney,I think good husband and father... what to want more ?

And here is explanation - tutorial
 
Star and basement
 
Considering little dimensions ( 7-8 mm diameter) use only this tool - they are not designed for wood, but with them you can do it more precise
 

 
Basement for star is made from wood tile 1,5-2 mm thick, which must be thinned to exact shape
 

 
Ring is made from telephony wire, flattened on anvil after making circle. It is not necessary to solder, it is so small, and you can always hide composition place with star arm, if color do not cover composition
 
Before installing ring, paint hole with red color, later it can be impossible
 
Stage 6 - use Xacto or similar sharp scalpel, and make scarps, or cuts if you are skilled enough. My experience is that scarps are sufficient in such a scale
 
Paint careful ring with blue and body with gold
 
Star is made of galvanized sheet metal part. I tried different materials, and faced with problems how materials behave on such a small dimensions - if to much soft, you can not work with, if to much hard, then it is to much thick
 
For gluing, use thinned toothpick to apply little drops of CA over ring
 
 
 

 
After coloring ( all used colors are acrylic), you can correct scarps, and you can use clear matte acrylic varnish
 
Left and right circle ornament are made on same way
 
Ropes
 
All ropes are made by "my" patent, considering I ( still) don`t have machine for this
 
Basic technique is shown on picture
 

 
You have to do some experiments, following direction of twisting in the weaving thread or oposite, combining 1,2,3 ropes together, or making double twisted ... Play a little
 
I used thread for crocheting, because a less of little hairs, which is made ( twisted) originally from 5 thinner twisted threads
 
When rope is done, you can twist it more by hands, and cover it before mount by one or two layer of thin gold acrylic to become semi-plastic, easier for work with. After cutting to dimension, "glue" ends with acrylic paint
 
All another line ornaments are made of different ropes I made
 
Ah, yes, parts are made by telephony wire, and little "leaves" on top by twisted thin wire - just two hears from regular multicore AC 220V wire
 
Letters
 
Point by point, on template I made from printed part of CS plans. After finished, cutted and glued all letters together in one sheet of paper base
 

 
I hope I did not miss something to explain 
 
Oh, yes
 
Main thing
 
On such a scale, you first have to "divide" whole ornament in parts, adn to look at "on artistic" way - little points just dissapear caused by small scale, and you must chose and decide what parts are significant to give look and feel of whole thing, and to focus on them
 
Little tip
 
There was problem how to manipulate with so small pieces - too small for any tweezer ... remember adhesive force of water ... just lick the top of toothpick, touch desired piece, and you will pick it up 
 
Another little tip
 
Use acrylic as first glue layer - also has some adhesive force, enough strong to accept piece you lay on it, and when acrylic color get dry, apply another thin layer to fix it, and varnish over

Famous and rare photos of Her under sails. She really was something

She is still something

Not bad for a first try Nenad! She's coming together. Thought you might like a pic of the real her under sail.
 

 
Cheers

Hello all
 
I've been doing some odds and ends on the Bohuslän.
 
Oak stain on the front deck:

 
Aft wall of cafeteria did not fit so good. It may be me having trouble getting the planks to lay flush to the frames aft.
Filler, sanding and paint plus the sofas will hide this mess I hope.

 
The lip of the windows where marked with the lasercutter. They would disappear when painted so I cut some silver wire and made a rather simple ornament.
 
 
I tried doing the curly bit on the ends but it was impossible (for me) to get them all identical so I went for the simple variation.

 

 
First of many, many, many coats of paint.

 

 
No portholes included so I ordered from CMB.

 
Companionway and "lifebelt boxes"

 
Kind if weathered look.

 
The plywood is very bristle and breaks all the time. 

 
Well, I'll be doing some rigging again on my other builds for a while so the next update will not be too soon.

Hello all
 
I spend every day on looking at all the fantastic models in this forum so I thought it was time to share mine build. It is the first wood model I build but I have built plastic models since I was child (Airplanes and tanks with focus on WWII). I should have done this log long ago but I get messed up in priming, airbrushing, coating etc. Have to redone it a couple of times.......
 
I have added some extra details on the ship to make it more like photos from 1934. I apologise for the bad photos but I am not a expert on photos:)
 
I choose this kit as a learning kit and my goal is to build period ships in the future. Next build will be Sherbourne by caldercraft. 
 
Well here are the photos:)
 
 
Jörgen
 
 
 
 

Hi,
I make sails for models in scale 1:75 with seams of the cloths sewing marked
with single thread ( courtesy of Admiral ).
For models in scale 1:100 I use computer printing of cloths lines and reef bands on thermal transferring paper for ironing on to sails fabric .
Sails leech, head and foot ropes are fixed in its place with use of textile adhesive .
Material for sails I prefer is old bed linen many, many times washed.
Work step by step
1.Make paper stencil for each sail and check it’s dimensions on your model.
2.With soft pencil transfer all lines in to fabric – add stripe 5-7 mm around
sail edges.
3.Make all necessary lines on fabric using sewing machine and thin thread with light brown or beige color.
For sails with thermal transferring of line any sewing is not necessary.
Cut of sail shape.
4. Fold the edges stripe to reverse side of sail and apply textile adhesive
5. Put sail on flat surface protected against glue adhesion ( wax paper )
and fix it with pins and nails for forming clews.
Using textile adhesive attach thread around sail and form clews and cringles as necessary.
After adhesive excess removal from sail surface and final ironing your sail is ready.
 
Foto 1-10 Sail making Step by Step
Foto 11 HMS Speedy  - printed sails
Foto 12 HMS Warrior - printed sails
Foto 13 Patern for printing sails for S/S Savannah
 
Tadeusz
 

This blog does me no good, makes me feel like a cave man but...incredibly joyful to follow

This blog does me no good, makes me feel like a cave man but...incredibly joyful to follow

This blog does me no good, makes me feel like a cave man but...incredibly joyful to follow

This blog does me no good, makes me feel like a cave man but...incredibly joyful to follow

Hi everyone,
 
This is my first post after
a few years. I had been on the original forum though work as usual always got in the way. Anyway signing back up I've decided to post a new build log of what I'm building now. This will be a model of the STS Leeuwin II.
 
The STS (Sail Training Ship) Leeuwin II is a tall ship based in Fremantle, Western Australia.
The Leeuwin is a three-masted barquentine. It was built to a design by local naval architect Len Randell by Australian Shipbuilding Industries Pty Ltd (now BAE Systems Australia) and launched on 2 August 1986. It is currently operated by the Leeuwin Ocean Adventure Foundation, a private not-for-profit organisation that runs youth training voyages along the West Australian coast.
 
The ship's overall length is 55 metres (180 ft) and its beam 9 metres (30 ft). The hull is welded steel with a teak deck. The main mast is 33 metres (108 ft) tall and, when fully rigged, the ship carries over 810 square metres (8,700 sq ft) of sails. A full crew consists of 55 people, consisting of 5 permanent crew, up to 10 volunteers (including four watch leaders, a bosun's mate, cook's mate and purser), and 40 trainees. The watch leaders take control of the four watch groups and lead the trainees through activities and ship duties on voyages of five days and more.
 
The model is based around a fiberglass hull and will be built using various media including fiberglass, plastic, wood and brass.