Krelis

So, I made the rudder, but deviated from the plans there.  They would have you installing a 'sternpost' inside the hull, and making holes through the hull to glue the rudder to this:
 
 
 

 
 
 
Almost impossible to get the holes right, so I skipped this, and (later) glued the rudder directly to the hull.
 
So now came the part I was dreading - gluing the deck/framework into the hull.  After several trial fits, and marking the deck line with the construction in place, it was panic time!
 
The instructions say to use "epossidic glue".  I interpreted this as 'epoxy', and found that all I had was 5-minute set.  Too fast for the many bits that needed glue.  Off to the hardware store for slower setting - 12 hours!
 
I should have enlisted help, but, like an idiot, I sailed on and spread glue everywhere, then mucked around trying to get it all together as planned.  Lots of rubber bands to hold the hull against the frame:
 
 

 
 
Do you like the classy stand I made from a shoe box?
 
 

 
 
I then painted the hull, using spray on primer, and gloss white:
 
 

 
 

 
 
The tiller you can see sticking up above the deckline broke off shortly after this, and will be reglued much later!
 
 
I then had to wait FIVE days for the paint to fully set!  Next came the hawseholes and scuppers.  These have a brass template for shape and size, but are made freehand, on a line that follows the deckline:
 
 

 
 
Problems were starting to surface:
The glue had oozed over both sides of the hull Some sections had not bonded properly The paint was not as glossy as I expected, and was being messed up by my handling Areas that I assumed would be covered by some sort of trim, were not, and were standing out like the proverbial.  Here at the stern was the worst:  

 
 
Some areas I re-glued, and that improved the fit (a bit).  The stern, as you will see, I decided to make my own trim - not perfect.
 
Trial fitting the bulwarks shows how Amati can really screw up.
 
They come in a bow section, stern section, and three longer sections.  Here they are blue-tacked in place:
 
 

 
 
Close up of the fit:
 
 

 
 
 
A gap of about 6mm !!!!  How hard would it be to make the sections a little bigger, so I could sand them down?
 
Now I have to sand them UP?  Or, as my father used to say, use the 'cutting on saw'?
 
But that's a problem for a little later.
 
I sanded/scraped the paint back to a better surface, then re-primed, and re-painted.  This time I used "Appliance White", as recommended on this forum.  Again, I waited 5 days for the paint to fully set.
 
Then I glued on the bulwarks and added a couple of small pieces each side to make up for Amati's stupidity.
 
Next, another scary bit - marking the waterline, and applying automotive tape at this line.  I used a variant of this idea http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1585-homemade-waterline-markers/#entry33810
 
The plans call for 8mm tape, but all I could get was 6mm.  Here are shots of my SECOND go at the waterline tape:
 
 

 
 

 
 
The first attempt had a bubble, and was a bit short for some reason.  It may have been my lack of following instructions.  They said the tape has to be applied to a surface at 18C or less.
 
So I redid it today - and it's currently 37C outside !!!  Cranked up the aircon, and stuck the model in the beer fridge for a bit.  Hope this time works better!
 
So here's a shot of the current state (on the weird stand they have you make up), and then I'm off to sand and seal the bulwarks.  Then I may repaint, reglue, and drink beer - or go for a swim:
 
 

 
 
Cheers,
 
Brett

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 117 – Poop Deck/Fancy Rail
 
In the first picture, the aft section of the margin plank is pinned in place against the tops of the stern timbers.
 

 
This piece has a hook scarph on each end.  The rudder post will be cut off later.  This picture also shows the framing of the boomkins and aft mooring bits.  In the next picture the next section of margin plank is being fitted to the hook scarph on the aft section and around the mooring bits.
 

 
In the next picture the poop margin planks have been fitted forward to the breast beam and the aft sections of fancy rail are pinned in place.
 

 
The fancy rail forms a cap over the stern timbers, deck margin plank and the top strakes of planking around the stern.  The coamings for the two skylights are pinned in place for fitting the head ledges.  In the next picture, the poop deck has been planked – leaving open areas to view the cabins underneath – and the skylight coamings are in place.
 

 
The fancy rail has again been pinned in place.  To keep water out of the cabin deck this had to be caulked inside and out.  To have sufficient overlap of the poop margin plank, it was made 15" wide – as on the forecastle.  I stepped these rails down to 12" along the main deck.
 
The next picture shows the painted parts of the fancy rail being installed.
 

 
The step down in breadth on the forward piece can just be seen at the break of the poop in this picture.  I spent quite a bit of time deciding how to handle this fancy rail width issue.  Most midship sections show a narrow rail – about 12" – but I finally decided this would not provide sufficient overlap of the poop and forecastle margin planks.  So, another one of those judgment decisions.
 
The next picture shows the fancy rail fully installed aft of midship. 
 

 
After painting, the sections were glued and pinned.  As the pins were removed, copper wired epoxied bolts were installed down into each toptimber to reinforce the attachment.  The bolts were filed off and the top of the rail received more finish painting.  And the next picture shows it at the bow. 
 

 
The last picture shows the model with the completed fancy rail. 
 

 
I have been looking forward for a long time to the capping off of those toptimbers.
 
Ed

On the internet I found this picture of Igor, boat in hand, very elegant boat in bottle

Hi everyone and thanks especially for all your Advice, Likes and compliments.
 
I've progressed a little bit on the rigging (my favourite bit...not!!). The latest photos are provided below. Admittedly, the rigging looks really messy at the moment because it's all pretty much temporary. Still lots of work to go.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hello,

the next task is to make deadeyes. I have tried to photograph each step, and hope the images are self explainable.
 
One end rounded with "truck tool"

Turned and cutted

Holding tool for drilling






 
Truning of the holder


The first deadeye

One side done, shaped witn fine grind paper

Ready deadeye

And here are these

 
This was the last post from me before crash, so the re-building of the log is now done.
 
To be continued

Alexander

Hello,
 
Before I begin to install all guns, and work further with beams and knees for quarter deck, gun port lids must here. So the production of hinges, the lids itself are made earlier. I hope, the images are self explainable.
 





 
The installation of hinges and lid tackles.





 
After I have installed all lids, I have made blanks for channels, shaped them to right size and thickness, and installed them (only dry now).
 







 
To be continued
 
Alexander

"The U.S. Government designated Lincoln in the 1970s as a refugee-friendly city due to its stable economy, educational institutions, and size. Since then, refugees from Vietnam settled in Lincoln, and further waves came from other countries. More recently, Lincoln was named one of the "Top Ten most Welcoming Cities in America" by Welcoming America" (Wiki).

These are the last pictures before painting with the airbrush. I special love the first picture because with all the parts on the table it really looks like a modelkit.

Modelkit. Anyone knows the brand? All the piece apart is very handy when you paint them. No masking needed.

 
Here al the parts together for a nice snapshot. Very proud of what I have accomplished. Started with some bits and pieces and now I have a complete ship.



 
Now on with the painting and maybe the next update I can show you some collours.

Regards, Kees

Your canvas is coming together nicely Kees, very narrow in the beams compared to the KW 88, from some distance I have seen a lot of new builds coming together in the Visser Shipyard in Den Helder, they built quite similar to Maaskant I guess, for Kattekers Maaskant was the prefered ship yard?

Your canvas is coming together nicely Kees, very narrow in the beams compared to the KW 88, from some distance I have seen a lot of new builds coming together in the Visser Shipyard in Den Helder, they built quite similar to Maaskant I guess, for Kattekers Maaskant was the prefered ship yard?

Your canvas is coming together nicely Kees, very narrow in the beams compared to the KW 88, from some distance I have seen a lot of new builds coming together in the Visser Shipyard in Den Helder, they built quite similar to Maaskant I guess, for Kattekers Maaskant was the prefered ship yard?

aha, thanks!

My old mens message Nenad: trash the game, go to that river nearby, have a smoke, catch a fish!

Hello everyone
 
Thank you for your workshop visits and all the like-buttons - each time, it gives me a little pleasure. 
 
Kees, Patrick, Lawrence and Michael - all your appreciation means a lot! - thank you.   
 
... Patrick, It's effectively what you saying and with the build of the model I'm more and more familiar with Colin Archers design. Every detail makes incredible sense to me - here, Colin Archer has left nothing to chance.
 
... so my first attempt on detail work (see below) - brazing is yet to come! 
 

Stavanger's hinge
 

Evident the locking part
 

Milling the flanges
  Blanks in pairs
 

Holes for the rivets
  Various dry trials   Making the locking parts   Best Regards! Mike  

In difficult and complex cases I often find the solution in place with waking up which has convinced me that sleeping hours should be billable. Anyways, plenty of distraction these days to ventilate the brain, to drain it even..

In difficult and complex cases I often find the solution in place with waking up which has convinced me that sleeping hours should be billable. Anyways, plenty of distraction these days to ventilate the brain, to drain it even..

My old mens message Nenad: trash the game, go to that river nearby, have a smoke, catch a fish!

My old mens message Nenad: trash the game, go to that river nearby, have a smoke, catch a fish!

COMPLETING 2D PARTS
 
 
Progression continues, 2D portion is now completed.  I tried to do it in 1 block. This way it is easier to have the same style in the carvings. To give a bigger volume to the 2D parts, many were cut in a thicker plank than require (especially the flowers) in a way, trying to make it look  bit more 3D than it is really.
 
Some parts were directly made from the plans, other were made according the place  on the exact place where i twill be install on the model. This way the parts fits before to be carved.
 
 Remaining sculptures  are 3D noted in red on the original drawings. On the first picture.
 
On the second picture, 4 pictures regrouped to give an idea of the progression of the construction; which is similar in many ways to a house : framing, walls, moldings and decoration on the other pics.
The third pic is to show how to work standing  having every thing at the good height.

Hi Chris, I do not think skill is involve, cherry, fruit tree is involve and also the scale. Another reason I tried the cherry version is that I found expensive the price of exotic woods in the previous build, especially ebony.
Except for the top, the rest is now complete.

Thanks for all the enlightenment!
 
I also found this picture showing wadding on top of the ball...

 
with comment (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muzzleloader)
"On most naval cannons, one piece of wadding was used to hold the powder in place and served the purpose of creating a better seal around the shot. Another was used to act as a plug to stop the shot rolling out because of the swaying of the ship".

Thanks for all the enlightenment!
 
I also found this picture showing wadding on top of the ball...

 
with comment (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muzzleloader)
"On most naval cannons, one piece of wadding was used to hold the powder in place and served the purpose of creating a better seal around the shot. Another was used to act as a plug to stop the shot rolling out because of the swaying of the ship".

Thanks for all the enlightenment!
 
I also found this picture showing wadding on top of the ball...

 
with comment (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muzzleloader)
"On most naval cannons, one piece of wadding was used to hold the powder in place and served the purpose of creating a better seal around the shot. Another was used to act as a plug to stop the shot rolling out because of the swaying of the ship".

Thanks for all the enlightenment!
 
I also found this picture showing wadding on top of the ball...

 
with comment (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muzzleloader)
"On most naval cannons, one piece of wadding was used to hold the powder in place and served the purpose of creating a better seal around the shot. Another was used to act as a plug to stop the shot rolling out because of the swaying of the ship".

Collateral damage fixed, color corection done

Right side



Left side



And famous under-bow look of Her




Stern lettering left, and I can finaly left paintbrush for a while, and climb to the deck to make some sawdust. I mean under fore deck first (animal area) to make a room for Bob's piggy