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jdowney

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    17
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lincoln County, NM
  • Interests
    Models, woodwork, metalwork, gem cutting.

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171 profile views
  1. Hi Tom, welcome to MSW! Tucson is a great place, I lived there for many years before moving to New Mexico. I worked my way through the U of A in the 1990's with a part time job in one of the local hobby shops.
  2. I really like the effort you put in to weathering and simulating use. This really brings your model to life!
  3. I tend to agree, though I've never tried them either. Stropping does the same thing, functionally, but is far faster and necessarily less precise. I would suppose that micro bevel adherents believe that precise angles and precisely flat bevels are of the first importance. I've found the opposite in years of woodworking, so I tend to keep things simpler and quicker so I can focus on the work rather than the preparation for it. I do know several people who take so much pleasure in tool preparation that it is an end unto itself, I've always kind of included those who mic
  4. Sure, any relatively firm material can make a good strop. I've used a scrap of wood with fine slurry from a waterstone in the past, worked well, as I'm sure the type of cardboard you mention would. One reason that there are sooooo many different ways of sharpening and so much ink, pixels, and video MB expended in discussing them and describing them is that they all basically work (even the wet/dry sandpaper on glass that I often deride works). It all comes down to preference, probably preference informed by background and history, but still preference. The main thing is to try i
  5. Wow! Just what I needed to better understand how to rig my long deferred Opium Smuggler. Many thanks for an excellent article.
  6. Wood ID is tough at that level. Its certainly tropical, iroko is quite likely. I've seen similar streaks in many woods though, including teak. Color is not right for teak however, unless its been finished (then teak can have that nice rich red brown). Raw teak is a more greenish color - I can go take a picture of some if you like, I still have some around. The only sure means of identification for most woods is to look at a thin shaving of end grain under magnification and compare the pore structure to reference samples or photos.
  7. Hi Bill - I'm playing catch up here, but I do want to say that's a very clever jig for re-drilling the mast hole. Good job! John
  8. Funny, I knew that trick already and it never even occurred to me to use it My sister is a former art conservator and in grad school they referred to it as using a "mild enzymatic solution".... I think that was a professor's running gag, making fun of a professional reluctance to say "use some spit".... Once I get the bulk of the dust off with a brush and vacuum, I will use that for the last going over - thanks for the reminder!
  9. It wasn't a midwest kit - it was Authentic Models Holland. Kit is the opium smuggler - as soon as I remembered the manufacturer I remembered the kit name too. I almost don't want to post the pic - soooooo dusty! Probably try to vacuum and dust with a little fan brush first, maybe then compressed air? Dial it down to 30 psi or so and it shouldn't hurt anything. Bowsprit and one mast are loose, but those are easy to fix. What little rigging I did on the bowsprit was a flight of fancy, got to redo that I hope I don't need to touch up any paint - that was PollyS as I
  10. Thanks for the welcome everyone. I'll take a couple pics when I get home in a day or two. First point of order will probably be how to clean it - kinda dusty around here! Then undo the early attempt at rigging (finding the kit instructions lacking, the attempt amounted to look at the picture on the box and wing it!) and add some neglected details (the tiller for example ) I don't have another build in mind quite yet. I've been tempted by some kits, but scratchbuilding is also very appealing. I just bought copies of Phillip Reed's books, and I'
  11. Corona. Its about 200 people and a gas station. At the moment there's another 200 or so in RV's working on windmill construction. Half the locals have built RV parks since the project is supposed to go on 2-3 years.
  12. That it is. There is a monument outside of town mentioning his stopping around here once. I bet every town in this county and all the others over to the border with Texas have something similar. There was also an old stream mill of some kind up in Ruidoso that had a lot of Billy the Kid claims associated with it, but it burned down (again) a couple years ago. They will without a doubt rebuild it (again) and keep the tourist thing going Nothing formal about this area, or even the whole state! I'm sure there is a joke to be made since the next state north has legal pot.... b
  13. For general dowel making (not tapered) I drill a series of holes in a steel plate, then relieve the back side with a coutnersink so that the material with the hole is thin - 1/32" or so. Need not be sharp but I've seen that done too. Basically like a much bigger draw plate, used differently (at least I think so - I've only used draw plates with wire) Then you take a square bit of stock, chuck it in a drill, and run it through the biggest hole to knock the corners off. Angle a bit and you get a bit more cut off too since you're now cutting to the minor axis of an ellipse rather t
  14. Higher - 6000' and above in New Mexico. I split my time between a tiny town in the middle of the state and a bigger town in the mountains outside Alamogordo (9000' there). Though the temperatures are moderate, it is still dry around here, though probably not as dry as Victorville. I did some summer work in college working out of Lone Pine, that seemed a bit drier
  15. I'll second the plug for Durhams, it is really handy stuff to have around. I would be a little hesitant to put it over something glued with super glue (water breaks down super glue) but the putty hardens quickly so probably the water in it would be gone long before harming super glue. I'd use it over PVA without a concern. I used to use it for groundwork on dioramas - I forget where I read about doing that, a book or magazine no doubt. The method was to sift dry putty powder onto a smooth, wet putty substrate, then once dry paint, dry brushing and static grass would complete the
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