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KeithAug

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About KeithAug

  • Birthday 05/27/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sussex, England.
  • Interests
    Sailing, Naval History, Model Ship Building, Model Steam Engine Building. Maisie walking - she is top left.

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  1. Hmmm! Well spotted - it is wrong. The tail has to come off the top - even in Britain.
  2. All looking very nice Gary. The problem with making such quick progress is that you have to start thinking about the next build sooner.
  3. Hi Paul - yes I agree B****y cold in the shed. I bet the cat had more sense.
  4. I am fighting the urge to do another small fitting production run - namely making the pedestals for the deck cleats. Finding anything to distract me from the task seems to be the imperative of the day. For a while I have been looking at what to me seemed to be an enormous dip in the line of the bulwark at the stern - the product of overly aggressive sanding. I decided to fix it. I started by taking an A4 sized sheet of sheet MDF and laying it over the stern. Then with a set of feeler gauges I measured the dip (gap between MDF and the Bulwark). It turned out to be .025" on one side and .020" on the other. It is surprising how the eye detects and the mind magnifies such errors. The dip extended over a length of about 5 inches and tapered from the measured dimensions in the centre to nothing at the ends. To repair the problem I cut mahogany strips of .030 thickness and attached them to the top of the bulwarks with PVA glue. I then applied weights to hold the strips down while the glue dried. The strips were over wide to allow for the curvature of the bulwark and once glued had to be sanded back on the edges to conform with the bulwark profile. Careful sanding was required and inevitably this led to the sanding away of some of the previously completed paintwork - as always in this hobby one job leads to another. Having sanded the edges I glued an A4 sheet of 120 grit sandpaper to the previously mentioned sheet of MDF and then used this to sand back the top edge and establish a much more pleasing top line. In the next photo you can see the repair. The residual paint just about lets you see the old and new top lines. The final shape is much more pleasing - or this at least this is what my imagination tells me.
  5. Michael -thank you - that is what I assumed you meant and is what I will experiment with.
  6. Michael - I will add it to the experimentation list. I did do a bit of sanded deck wood filling around the hawse pipe holes (albeit this area was hidden under the brass rubbing rings). I did find that the filler was somewhat darker than the wood but this may have been caused by the PVA.
  7. Of course in my case I am either too thick or too old to contemplate expending what little precious time I have left learning CAD - although I do admire Vaddoc's skills. When I was taught drawing I seem to remember the pinnacle of skill was sanding the correct wedge on the end of the pencil - .012" thick for scheme drawings and .025" thick for detail drawings. Life was easier in those days.
  8. Excellent work Gary. I spent part of today trying to make .080" OD eyebolts so I have every sympathy with your approach.
  9. Julie - I tried a number of cards - basically looking for the least fibrous and smoothest surfaced I could find. I then experimented with the best and found this card produced the optimum results.
  10. Gary - I thought the set of steps were one of the more unusual workshop tools I have seen on MSW. Well done on the sails.
  11. Phil, I do admire folks who have the patience and dexterity to take on miniature carvings. Well done.
  12. Druxey, Gary, Pat, John, Mark, GL, Paul. Thank you all for your comments, and many thanks to all those that have liked my build. I have had an unproductive few days - so only a little progress to report. The tender sits on the deck on protective metal strips. At the end of each strip is an eyebolt and a number of additional eyebolts form the anchor points for the boat lashings. The deck bosses for the boat lashing points are smaller than those for the rigging eyebolts. Narrow necked eyebolts are required for these lashing points. The metal strips were cut from .015" brass sheet. They needed to be .080" wide. They could have easily been cut with tin snips (or even a craft knife) but I decided cutting them on the mill would produce a better result. I cut strips of the required width using a slitting saw with the brass sheet mounted vertically in the vice and supported by a piece of scrap wood. The strips were then cut to length, the ends profiled and holes drilled to match the deck holes. Finally the strips were polished and mounted on the deck.
  13. Gary - have a look at https://www.jclassyachts.com/yachts. The official site of the J Class Association. You can see Endeavour is JK4. Although I accept that this isn't proof that it had the same number in 1934.

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