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KeithAug

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About KeithAug

  • Birthday 05/27/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sussex, England.
  • Interests
    Sailing, Naval History, Model Ship Building, Model Steam Engine Building. Maisie walking - she is top left.

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  1. Pat, Druxey, Geert, Eberhard, Paul, Keith and Eric - thank you all for your kind remarks and thanks to everyone else who has looked in. As the pandemic accelerates may you and your families keep well.
  2. Paul coming along nicely. I also got the first grass cut in on Tuesday. Ground still very soggy underneath though. I think we are in for a lot of shed time over the next 3 months. Keep safe.
  3. I remain confined to barracks and my guess is that the situation wont change for many months. Never the less I am spending less time in the workshop than I had hoped. I continue to work in and around the anchor chain. From the winch the chain runs through a wooden guide as per the next image:- At some time after launch the guide was enhanced by the addition of hoops. Presumably without the hoops the chain was prone to jumping out of the slots. I made the guides out of the same wood stock I had used for the deck planks. The guides were milled on either side of a block before being slit off using the Byrnes saw. Cut outs were then made to accept the hoops. The hoops were made from thin sheet, cut into strips and then formed in a slot milled in oak, using a ball end milling cutter. I then went on to making the hand wheels for the winch brake. I didn't have any etched wheels of the right size and anyway for larger wheels photo etch parts lack realism. The brake wheels have an outer diameter of .320" a hub diameter of .092" and are of a 3 spoke design. Each spoke is .031" diameter and the wheel rim is .025" thick. I started with a 12" long 3/32" rod and drilled an axial hole of .040" diameter and 3 radial holes of .031' diameter. I then put wires in the radial holes and soldered the assembly by applying solder to the central hole. I then turned a bar of .320 outside diameter and .270 bore diameter to create a .025" wall. The hub rod was then mounted in the lathe and the ends of the 3 radial wires were rotated at speed and shortened with a file until they fitted neatly within the 0.270" bore. The larger rod was then placed back in the lathe chuck and hub rod was held in the tailstock chuck. With the spokes inserted in the bore the two parts were soldered together. The bore rod was then parted off and the central axial hole re-drilled to remove the solder. I then did a bit of cleaning up with a wire brush. Then back to the lathe to part off the hoop before finally inserting a shaft. The hand wheels were then installed on the winches. In the following shot the chain guides are not yet glued in position.
  4. TrueType amazing Doris. It’s a pleasure to see your work.
  5. Schooners - I all use a sanding drum in my mill. The drum has 120 grit paper and is 1.375 diameter. I run it at 1000 rpm and it removes the frame edges really quite quickly.
  6. Hubert - yes I think we are all going to be impacted for many months. Thank you for the compliment.
  7. Thank you for your comments Eberhard. I agree small bits do take a disproportionate amount of time and eyestrain is a limiting factor. I must get more practiced in wearing a magnifying visor, to date i have always failed to master the technique. Yes Richard modelling can become a bit obsessive. Pat - actually no filing involved - the following should explain:- I first turned the diameters "A" on the rod to the upper right. I then soldered on the elbow at point "B". I then cut off the the upper right rod at point "C". I then held the elbow in the lathe chuck using the shaft at "D". Then I turned a diameter at "E" using a parting tool. This formed the spigot diameter "F". I then parted off the elbow from the shaft. The flange was then turned and fitted on the spigot.
  8. A lovely model Geert. It has been a pleasure following your progress. It may be some time before we see the gallery pictures so keep safe until then.
  9. Hello Schooners, For the outside of the frame I always find it best to cut as near the line as possible with a scroll saw and then finish to size with a disc sander for convex curves and a spindle sander for concave curves. For the inside of the frames I just take care and use the scroll saw. I cut the edges square and then fair the frames with a sanding block once they are built up. Like you I attach the patterns with glue stick.
  10. Nothing much to do in the UK anymore - all entertainment closed down and restaurants and pubs shut. The only relief is shipbuilding, which isn't a bad thing. I continued with the anchor winch. The brackets for the hand wheels were finished by soldering on a mounting spigot. The anchor chain comes off the Gypsy and then passes through a 90 degree elbow before disappearing below deck. The elbows had been on my mind some time as to the best way to make them. In the end I decided to make them out of .125" brass rod that was drilled to form a bore. I purposely left the wall section thick to prevent collapse of the tube. From the sketch you can see the bend is tight given the rod diameter. I made a bending jig to assist with the forming of the bend and annealed the rod a couple of times during bending. It looked better after polishing. I then cut the elbow to height before turning a flange and spigot on another piece of .125" rod snd then joining the two parts with soft solder. The open end of the elbow has a flange. The elbow was turned to form a register for the flange. The flange was also turned. The flange was glued in place. The elbow was then mounted on to the winch base plate. I then mounted the hand wheel brackets and sorted out the hand wheel shaft. The .040" drill is providing temporory alignment. The chain was also installed.

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