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KeithAug

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About KeithAug

  • Birthday 05/27/1953

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sussex, England.
  • Interests
    Sailing, Naval History, Model Ship Building, Model Steam Engine Building. Maisie walking - she is top left.

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  1. Nice start Patrick. A super yacht that actually looks like a boat - what is the world coming to.
  2. Thank you Druxey and Valeriy The weather improved which means snail paced progress resumes. I spent some time finishing lining the bulwarks with 1/32 ply. I pre drilled the bulwark penetrations in the ply. I will open the holes in the bulwark planks from the outside and hopefully the pre drilling will leave a clean hole. In any event all holes will have brass insets. I did make a start on the deck. The lines are not an amateur attempt at simulating deck planking. I drew on the grid lines to form a guide for the deck planking which will be applied over the plywood sub-deck. The transverse dimension between centre line and deck edge was transferred from the hull using engineers dividers. I also drew on the positions of the various deck structures. The sub deck is made from 1/32 ply and not 1/16 as previously mentioned. The sad news is my laptop is dead and has gone off to the repairer, fortunately it is still under warranty (I am typing this on tablet). Unfortunately the lap top has all the Germania photos and plans on it. So until it returns progress will be curtailed even further.
  3. John - Yes - she however feels very light now that the building board has gone.
  4. Eberhard The bulwarks on Germania are an extension of the steel hull. I'm not sure of the thickness of steel used but I would guess it is 1/8 to 3/16 inch. At 1:36 scale this equates to about .004" to .006". I think you would agree that this isn't really a feasible thickness for planked wooden construction. The thickness of the bulwark will however be hidden under the rail and as such I'm not too worried about it not being to scale. The hull planking was about .055" thick and it made sense to continue this thickness up to the bulwark. The mahogany planking is much stronger lengthwise (along the grain) and of course the bulwark is several planks deep. I felt that the plywood and the PVA intermediate layer would give me much needed additional strength in the vertical plane. The other benefit of plywood backing is that the inner face of the bulwark is going to be finished smooth and painted white. The plywood gives me a good surface without having to resort to excessive sanding.
  5. Pat, Druxey, GL, Cortes, Rob, ZBip - thank you all for your comments. After a number of unusual years we seem to have returned to a traditional British summer, rain, wind, floods etc - but fortunately no floods in Sussex. At least the inclement weather has facilitated a few good hours in the workshop. I got round to hacking off the hull from the building board. A fairly quick and painless job with a full sized cross cut saw. You may recall from earlier that I had cut the frames along the deck line leaving about 1/2 inch uncut, I now needed to cut through this 1/2 inch to release the frames. I used 25mm diameter slitting saw blade mounted in my RotaCraft drill (bit like a Dremel) to cut through the retaining web. In the next photo the first up-stand has been removed. The bulwark planks aren't very thick and hence are fragile. Once I had cut through the web I carefully eased the top of the up-stand rearward and the twisting motion broke away the glued frame connection with the bulwark. Again you may recall that I had inserted a piece of paper between the frame and the bulwark planks to form a line of weakness to facilitate removal of the up-stand. In the photo you can see how cleanly the frame came away from the bulwark (white paper residue remains). This technique proved to be a success. I progressed with the removal - a relatively slow job - I need a more powerful rotary tool. In the next photo I have outlined the pre cut deck lines in case my earlier explanation was a bit muddled. It was at about this stage that my daughter paid a visit to the workshop and declared the deck house to be a bit on the large size!!!!!!! I had assumed the bulwarks would be fragile and indeed they were - although a little less so than I had expected. My plan had always been to back the bulwarks with 1/32 ply. Rather than wait for all the frame up-stands to be removed I decided to do the backing in stages. My plan to improve solidity is illustrated in the next sketch. I therefore cleaned up the insides of the bulwarks with sandpaper before gluing on the plywood with PVA glue. The second picture understates the clamps - I actually had one every inch. Some time later i was doing the 3rd and 4th strips of plywood backing - this time showing the clamp forest. I should explain that I pre-drilled the plywood where the bulwark penetrations will be made later. I have virtually completed removal of the up-stands - just 3 left at the bow where I can't get the rotary saw in without damaging the bulwark planks. I need to find a way of removing these. Then I will have to remove the nibs of the up-stands before fairing the frames to take the deck.
  6. John - The Britannia is only south if you are Scottish - moored in Leith - Edinburgh.
  7. Pat - I have to agree - I live 60 minutes away and have visited many times, I never tire of the experience.
  8. Bedford, Tom, Gary, Pat - thank you for your kind comments and as ever thank you to everyone for the likes. Despite the wet week I have not got a lot done - constructing a bike box for my son and erecting a fence for my daughter sort of got in the way. Not withstanding this I finished the scroll work - that is until I decide I need more detail. The next photo shows the second scroll parts created and positioned alongside the first to check size. This time I soldered the scroll with the missing item from the first scroll added. And then I corrected the first scroll. I made a bit of extra scroll work and the scrolls were then painted with gold paint to match the rubbing strips. The next step was to pin the scrolls in place using brass dressmakers pins and then glued using CA. Finally I did a bit of touch up with gold / white paint. Tomorrow I hope to remove the hull from the building board.
  9. Eberhard - I was reading back through some of your machining work - very nice and quite informative. The hull looks smart.

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