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About Cathead

  • Birthday 09/08/1979

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    Missouri, USA
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    Ecology, history, science, cooking, baseball, soccer, travel

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  1. Just saw this. How cool! Thanks for sharing.
  2. As a riverboat aficionado, I've considered this kit for a future build. Will be very interested to learn from your experience with it. Also, you might be interested in the ongoing fantastic Cairo scratchbuild by user @mbp521.
  3. So often, in steamboats, the rule is "anything reasonable was probably done somewhere" (and sometimes unreasonable). I agree that the boiler and hurricane decks look like they have canvas, and it seems more likely that those weren't painted red, so a natural canvas color would seem appropriate there? With a dull red for the main deck as a contrast? In the absence of better evidence I'd say choose what looks attractive to you personally and what you can reasonably justify.
  4. Just catching up, beautiful as always. To clarify an earlier discussion, I've used pastels for both weathering and primary color on various ship builds as well as model railroad projects. On Arabia, the deck planks were colored by pastel while the main white color was paint. On the Viking ship, the shields were primarily colored pencil while the sails were layered pastel and colored pencil.
  5. Sorry for slow reply , been off grid and now browsing at airport on phone so hard to study diagrams or write long reply. Will try to help more later this week. Just wanted you to know that you weren’t being ignored.
  6. I've already beaten the crap out of the keel, sternpost, and stempost, and wish I'd remade those in maple before getting started. As it is I'm considering trying to add a thin veneer or something, depending on how well the damage sands out. Some of that damage comes from my stubborn insistence on building this as a loose model (not attached to a build board as in the instructions), which definitely exposes these parts to harm but I'm finding makes many parts of the process much easier. Sounds like a good plan. I really think this is going to clean up well with a bunch of sanding.
  7. I agree that the directions are pretty difficult to follow regarding how to handle the complex planking around the counter, and none of the photos really capture it in progress. I had to study a lot of different images to even get as far as I have.
  8. It's been over a month since I updated this, so here's the current status. I'm 2/3 of the way through the lower planking (below the wale). I haven't been in the mood to make updates, partly because life has been stressful and distracting, and partly because I don't think plank-by-plank updates really add anything to what's already well documented for this project (and planking in general). I have mixed feelings about the results. I just haven't been able to make the planking runs as consistent in width as I'd like. Seems like a mental block or something. I know what I'm supposed to be achieving but there's a lot of variability that just seems to have crept in. I honestly think I did a better job planking my revenue cutter than here, where I'm paying more attention. Some of this may be due to working with the home-milled cherry, which has variable width and a fairly coarse grain, which sometimes makes precise cutting difficult. Here are two closer views of the bow and stern: You can really see the varying plank thicknesses that result from using the Byrnes saw but having no thickness sander. I intentionally milled my strips a bit thick to allow for final sanding, so I think this will look a lot better as a finished product than it does now. I haven't used a stealer at either bow or stern, even though I knew I was supposed to. Somehow it didn't develop naturally from the way my planks flowed. I see a lot of mistakes and problems overall, and plead (a) a relative lack of experience with this process and (b) a really distracting period in my life right now. Even when I sit down to work on this, my mind isn't really focused, so I'm just sort of drifting through this. I am learning some things, and I think the final product will be reasonably attractive. But I thought I would be doing a better job. Here's one more shot of the current hull. Four planks to go before the wale, and then things get a lot easier. Thanks for looking in.
  9. Following you over from your last build as well. I haven't built this kit but it seems most reasonable to follow the template. I also wonder if you're being confused by terminology. The word "keel" refers specifically to the timber along the bottom of the vessel; it has no vertical component. The part that doesn't match your template runs along what would be the sternpost (if this were a framed model), the structural piece rising up from the keel toward the transom. See the first diagram here for a good illustration of what the framed pieces would look like in this area, if the terminology remains confusing. So the directions do make sense in that you appear to need to remove material from the stern (not the keel), especially where the sternpost meets the transom (again thinking of where the real framing would be).
  10. Ironic that the punctuation in that upper-left one is wrong.
  11. Welcome! I'm also a model railroader who diverted into shipbuilding. You might enjoy this photo of my steamboat Bertrand at a mid-1800s railhead of the Hannibal & St. Joseph Railroad, on the Missouri River in northwest Missouri. If you're going to built Chaperon, I strongly recommend this additional guide written by Kurt Van Dahm, a director of the Nautical Research Guild and resident steamboat expert. It's got a ton of good details and suggestions that complement the kit instructions. The price is well worth it compared to the cost of the kit and the time you'll spend on it (especially the time you'll save avoiding mistakes!). There are also some very good build logs for the kit here on MSW that would be well worth reading through for insights and inspiration. I weather my steamboat models to the same extent I do railroad models: to look reasonably well-used but not decrepit. Many ship modelers don't weather because there's something particularly attractive about a pristine stand-alone model, but I think riverboats just don't look right if too crisp. Certainly if it's going on a model railroad layout, weathering makes sense. I primarily use pastels for light shadings of dirt, grime, rust, and so on. For example, here's my lightly weathered Arabia (another Missouri River steamer); not grimy, but not shiny either: I'd certainly encourage you to start a build log for your Chaperon here, as it'll be the best way to get advice and support as you dive in. It's a great choice of kit, really the only accurate riverboat kit available, and turns into a beautiful model. Good luck and I'll be there in your build log if you start it.
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