cg451
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Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
cg451 replied to shihawk's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Fellow tool appreciators, Safety is an absolute must, and I learned early on the truth of that statement. My first table saw was a tilting table saw (the blade stays vertical and the table tilts--illegal in some places because of the danger). The second day using that saw was my first kickback, but I had been coached never to stand directly behind the blade. A piece of oak, about 10" long and being cut to about 2" wide got stuck between the rip fence and the blade. As you can imagine, the wood was launched almost horizontally off the table, flew by me, and penetrated my 1" thick garage door. After almost 50 years of furniture building I still have all my digits and other body parts, and this is because I am SAFE when using any power tool. Although the band saw is IMHO the safest tool in the shop, it can still get you in trouble. When I purchased my 24" band saw years ago, the salesman said, "you can saw a Buick in half with that saw!" and I don't doubt it. The shaper is the most dangerous tool, followed closely by the jointer--again IMHO. The tools we purchase and use correctly are (as has been well-stated earlier in this thread) an extension of our hearts, and they allow us to do the best work we can. I enjoy and respect all my tools, and they permit me to accomplish tasks with precision that would take much longer with hand tools. Also, they are FUN to use :D . Bill -
Brian, Just found your log this evening (late to the party ), and I have two suggestions that might help on future modeling projects: 1) if a bulkhead is warped (as you noted), it is easy to soak it (avoid ammonia!) and dry it overnight on an absolutely flat surface with weight on top or clamps applied to a strong backing board. The "absolutely flat" applies to either weighting or clamping, but the bulkheads really do need to be flat, and 2) the reason for two thinner layers of the bulkhead former rather than one thicker layer is strength. Two pieces glued together (again, absolutely flat) will be stronger than the equivalent thickness single piece. As a bonus, with the two halves of the former glued together, you have a perfect (if it's flat) centerline for attaching bulkheads and generally knowing that all components are where they should be. Hope this helps, and I'm glad to see another Benjamin W. Latham build. I will be following with interest. Bill
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Gary, Glad to see a set of excellent images of the Benjamin W. Latham. I'm working on the MS kit as a starting point for conversion to a yacht, so I'll be adding more deck furniture consistent with people instead of fish in the holds. I will continue to follow your build with intense interest. Bill
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Ed, I just found this build log, and you are truly an amazing craftsman! You could even be called "King of the Mortise" considering the accuracy and beauty of your joinery. The knees look perfect. Again (as others have correctly stated) WOW! One question: at least some of the extreme clippers had moonsails (the 7th sail, on top of the skysail). Were these an option of individual captains, or did they need to be included in the original drafting to make it to the ship? Bill
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Fam, Wonderful work and excellent photography--thank you! One suggestion: even though the scarf joint is hooked and glued, I believe the practice was also to dowel virtually every joint. Since the dowels were made of wood, they became called "tree nails" which we in the US pronounce as "trunnels." In my furniture building I use dowels frequently (along with lots of mortise and tenon joints). As you know, nails of any sort are only there--theoretically--to hold the joint until the glue dries. However, in practice the dowels and trunnels do add strength. Others reading this: please chime in with additional comments. Bill
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Henry, Just found your build log, and you have a gorgeous model--love those J boats! I'm working on a modified version of the Benjamin Latham, and it will be the yacht I wanted to build for my wife who passed in 2009. Instead of the forward hatches on the Latham, I will be adding another cabin similar to the cabin on the after deck, and staining the blocks (instead of painting them) will be more yacht-like. Great job on you Endeavour! Bill
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Looking for rigging diagram or photos for Benjamin W Latham
cg451 replied to Hog2sail's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Fellow BWL modelers, I just ordered my BWL kit from MS for a drastically reduced price, and finding all the information here (plus references to build logs) was encouraging to me. Having a 1:48 scale schooner in kit form will be my stepping stone to my first scratch build--a POF 1:48 Bluenose from amazing plans purchased from Canada. Thanks to everyone for the ongoing support. Bill -
Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
cg451 replied to shihawk's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Boyd, Although this is not a current thread, when I saw it (and the associated replies to your inquiry) I felt one more opinion wouldn't hurt. My background is Irish, so I know what it means to be frugal. That also means when we purchase something we should buy the best we can afford to do the task at hand (and in the future) instead of buying "cheap" and struggling with the inadequacies of the underpowered, inaccurate, and junk-like item. My goal is scratch building, and one of my passions (almost 50 years now) is building furniture. My shop is populated with all the needed equipment, and I know each tool intimately--along with its strengths and limitations. The Byrnes tools are superb quality, and they fill the gap between my furniture-making tools and my scalpel. Do I appreciate and use my Byrnes tools? Absolutely! Do I wish I'd not spent the funds for them? Absolutely not! Every day in the shop is an opportunity to use one of these magnificent tools and smile broadly at the quality of work I'm able to produce with them. We Irish must stick together , and I hope the above helps you in your decision making. Bill -
Gaetan, I was directed to this thread as an excellent example of the use of cherry wood. "Excellent" does not even start to capture the incredible, amazing, and outstanding work you've performed here (I'm using "performed" in the metaphor of a concert musician playing a solo for an enraptured crowd). Your build logs will be a source of finding how high the mark can be set. Thank you! Bill
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Homer (or is it "Ron"?) The copper treatment looks great! Using a ponce wheel to make the nail indentations is not only an excellent idea but also creates a scale & historically accurate plate. I've found two patterns for the nailing: 1) diagonal in the field surrounded by straight rows along the edges, and 2) many horizontal rows without a diagonal pattern. What reference would show the correct pattern for different periods of history? Thanks for the clear and in-focus pictures! Bill
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Tadeus and others, This is truly fascinating! Thank you for the research and documentation. You help bring this hobby to life. Bill
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Constructing a rope from strands - selecting strand sizes
cg451 replied to lehmann's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Frank, This topic and your table of sizes and colors will really help me to fine-tune colors. My Byrnes ropewalk was delivered a few minutes ago, and the experimentation will begin with a head start from you. Thank you, and I will post any useful outcomes here and on the Lauck Street site. As ChuckL (on the LSS site) said recently, we are "standing on the shoulders of giants." Bill -
Just... Although I'm a newbie on this site, I've been building furniture for years and will be glad to help you design and build a case. Do you have access to a table saw? If you send me a PM (private message) we can exchange email addresses and move forward with your project. Bill
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