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kurtvd19

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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. Here is the link by doing a simple search as Ben suggested - first item in the list; https://www.researchgate.net/publication/323691614_A_Forensic_Investigation_Of_The_Breakup_And_Sinking_Of_The_Great_Lakes_Iron_Ore_Carrier_Edmund_Fitzgerald_November_10th_1975_Using_Modern_Naval_Architecture_Tools_And_Techniques I will be reading the paper later and it will be added to my Fitz documentation. Thanks, Ben. I too purchased a 1/700 Fitz kit from Iron shipwright and it was not up to my standards but I have other kits by them and they are super. The USS Panay is one of the best resin kits I have ever seen and I have several of their tugs and they are great too. The story of my Fitz was that the hull had a warp to it and I talked with one of the two owners at IS who suggested I heat the hull in a microwave for 1 minute and see if it was warm, but also said that it might take 2 or 3 times, and to then set it onto a flat surface and to apply some pressure to force the warp out of the hull. I put it into the microwave for 1 minute and went to change a record on the turntable and half way to the turntable I heard a very large bang. Enough that I ducked thinking somebody had let loose with a 9mm. I ran to the kitchen to smell a horrendous stench coming from the microwave and I had the good sense to not open the door. Unplugged it and took it outside. When I opened the door the hull was in several pieces and through the longitudinal center of the hull pieces it looked like strawberry jelly that was starting to harden. Needless to say I contacted IS again and the reaction was - "that shouldn't have happened". They sent a new hull but it had the same warp to a much lesser extent and I sold it to a club member who said he would tackle it. Later talking with IS they speculated that for some reason the resin mix must have been improperly measured or contaminated and that the resin had not cured in the center of the piece and the microwave caused it to boil. Kurt
  2. Rick: I suggest you search here in MSW for topics of interest. Search GLUES and you will see many discussions about glues. Do the same for PAINTS. My suggestion would be to search Acrylic Paints rather than just Paints. Check out each of the topics you want to gather the current information for - there is a lot of it available here. Once you have a bit of current knowledge then if you have specific questions ask in the appropriate areas and you will get answers. Kurt
  3. Do the search as suggested but do yourself a favor and get glass lenses. Kurt
  4. Derek: I don't build models with treenails but I do use the draw plate for making small dowels for strengthening joints just like in full size carpentry and attaching parts to the model so it's not just glue holding the piece in place. Kurt
  5. With the difficulties of soldering/welding aluminum why not just use brass rod. It's easy to bend to shape and can be soldered easily. The photos show brass rod bent to shape and soldered together (the kit provided aluminum tube that was to be glued together). The brass rod can be plated or painted. Krylon makes a spray chrome paint -Premium Metallic Original Chrome that was decanted from the can and then airbrushed onto the parts in the photos. Stay-Brite solder was used with resistance soldering with the parts on the model - the perfect jig - the resistance soldering doesn't transmit enough heat to affect the model. The parts were removed from the model, painted and reattached to the model after the hull was painted.
  6. Go to the link below to see the clubs that might be near you. Not every club is listed Note to others reading this: If your clubs isn't listed send your info to the NRG so it can be put up onto the lists - also check if it's accurate - things might have changed since the info was put up there. Kurt https://thenrg.org/links-and-sources-for-the-ship-modeler.php
  7. I have the tilting table and have used exactly one time. It was critical to the job and it more than paid for itself with the time and materials saved on that job. I can't think of another use for it - at least in my case - so unless I am commissioned to build another barge with sliding covers it will probably just gather dust. The sliding sled is much more useful for future consideration. Kurt
  8. Welcome to MSW and model boat building. This is a great place to learn about the hobby. You might want to check out the local area model ship club in Denver - The Rocky Mountain Shipwrights. A great group who will welcome you. https://rockymountainshipwrights.org/ Kurt
  9. Welcome to MSW Tom. We welcome you and your company and we are very pleased to see you have come to an agreement with Ancre. Take care, Kurt
  10. There are many instances of this type of bulb causing fires and meltdowns. Go to the CSPC web site to see how to report problems as well as to see what has already been reported and/or recalled. US Consumer Products Safety Commission https://www.cpsc.gov/ I got rid of all of these bulbs long ago. The packaging will state if they can or cannot be used in enclosed fixtures which was a big problem like what has been shown here. There were enough other issues with them so I got rid of every one we had purchased. Be aware that only some of the new LED bulbs can be placed into enclosed fixtures. Read the packaging. Kurt
  11. Denatured alcohol will wipe away pencil line - just remember to only use a white cloth or the alcohol will leave a colored rag's color on the wood.
  12. There isn't really any need to further discuss copyright pertaining to photographs used here - as Justin pointed out we have a clearly stated policy which isn't open to debate or interpretation.
  13. The video Ron posted of Ken's Intro to Airbrushing is something I recommend to all those new to airbrushing. The most complete short seminar out there. To Dave's question about cleaning between coats (sorry I didn't see your text message till just a few minutes ago) there is no need when using acrylics to wait between coats on something like a hull. By the time one paints the port side with a second coat the starboard side is ready for it's second coat. There is a tendency for paint to dry on the tip of the airbrush with any paint but with acrylics it collects quicker and heavier. It's always best to preemptively flick the dried paint off the tip than to wait till you see it affecting the paint application. Experience will help to know how long this takes with the paint, pressure and atmospheric conditions. But as long as the airbrush isn't set down for other than short periods there shouldn't be any need to clean it between coats of paint. If stopping for lunch, clean it to the point there is no residual paint showing on a clean paper towel. At the end of the day always do a thorough cleaning. Take care, Kurt
  14. I like the natural look. Might the shingles be a use for laser board? Being thinner to start the might not need sanding. Kurt
  15. If you are only blackening then I would have no concern using a stainless steel sieve. But if you plan to do any plating the Sparex may be contaminated by the SS if it isn't of high quality and then interfere with the plating process. Copper tweezers or the plastic alternatives mentioned are needed if plating is a possibility. Kurt
  16. The Planking Kit is now available in the NRG Store. Please note the 3 options to buy - US, Canada, Other . Please click on the correct link for where you live. Remember NRG members get 20% off. https://thenrg.org/half-hull-planking-kit.php Kurt
  17. The Planking Kit is now available in the NRG Store. Please note the 3 options to buy - US, Canada, Other . Please click on the correct link for where you live. Remember NRG members get 20% off. https://thenrg.org/half-hull-planking-kit.php Kurt
  18. Mark: I just dropped off the kit at the PO. Says it is due for delivery on Saturday. Have fun. Kurt
  19. It is a kit. Start a log in the kit builds. When several are started we can set it up in the group build area.
  20. Eric: Sorry. The extended rip fence is $30 and well worth it. The Miter Gauge adjustable extension is $12 and well worth it. I got the prices messed up. The $8 miter bar I mentioned isn't such a good buy when the adjustable extension is only $12. The micrometer stop isn't needed in my opinion. The saw does not have markings for width of cuts. Use a metal scale to measure from the blade to the rip fence. If you are going to be cutting planking make an adjustable tool to set the width like the one I made - photos attached. Absolutely no difference in plank width because the tool isn't moved between planks - the rip fence moves but the tool to the left of the blade sets the width. Kurt
  21. Eric: You will never regret buying one. I would get the extension bar for the miter gauge. There is a plain one for $8 or the adjustable one for $30. I add a longer piece of hardwood to the $8 bar when I am doing angled cuts - attached with double faced tape. If I have occasion to order something else from Jim I will probably pick up the $30 adjustable one - but I haven't had any issue with just adding another piece with the tape. But you really need one or the other. The extended fence is a very good - must have - addition. I think the std fence is just too thin - but I also use a big Bissemer (sp?) style fence on my 10" saw. A couple of zero clearance inserts so you can have one matched to each blade you use. The other accessories are luxuries. I purchased the tilting table and have used it one time in several years - it paid for itself on that job but it hasn't been used since. Kurt
  22. I will have to check my files - I didn't have the photos I posted, noted as being from a later build. I will check the UofW library. Ralph would have had the right boat noted in their files. The photos in my collection that I am sure are of the correct Chaperon seem to show the same type of boat as in the photos I posted. Kurt

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