jerome
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
TI Europe by Javelin - 1/700 - PLASTIC
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Krevetka by doivud - CARD - Soviet shrimp trawler - First Build
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Garage workshop
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Wood is fine in an unheated space. Your paints definitely want to be in a warm space. oils would be fine with freezing temperatures but not acrylic paint, Acrylics and glues too should be brought into a warm area. the models maybe fine. there are a lot of variables in model construction so some can be frozen with no damage but other not so much.
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Thanks Micha, I have been tossing the longevity of this project around for a couple of weeks. Having sailed deep sea on oil tankers years ago I have first hand knowledge of the strength of the ocean. I have also spent years boat building real boats. So am well aware of products for building real boats. But the Eternity / Longevity is an issue for a 30” long model boat. I would be highly surprised if this model even drifted as far east as the European continent before being overwhelmed by the ocean of something else floating in the ocean. The fiberglass idea is looking much easier and tried and true in my building eyes. Waterproofing this model should be pretty easy. gasket material and screws will hold the hatch in place. The possibility of building watertight bulkheads into the boat is also viable idea. I suppose I’ll have to have a build log of this interesting project so everyone can give more and better ideas. Thanks for all the help and questions. -
To answer the question of why I thought one may be of use in the upcoming project. A gentleman whom is dying has wished to have a model boat built that his ashes will be placed in and the model will be launched into the Gulf Stream. So that he may cruise the Atlantic for eternity. My thoughts on the eternity thing made me think of marine growth overwhelming a wood model boat in a pretty short time. hence: copper bottom plating. Copper will keep marine growth from attaching itself for a good long time. The model will be a rounded bottom fishing vessel similar to one’s he fished on years ago. I thought an English wheel would make forming the copper easier on this type of hull. I will start with using a hammer, as the copper doesn’t need to be very thick. Hope this answers some questions. Thank you for all the insight. It’s a wonderful thing!
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wheels-metal-rolling-machine/eels metal rolling machine
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jerome reacted to a post in a topic:
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jerome reacted to a post in a topic:
TI Europe by Javelin - 1/700 - PLASTIC
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Lovely! I found these ship fascinating as they were SO HUGE. And to think how much white paint it took to cover the hull and decks. I did some work for a chartering outfit in New York that had a 6 foot model of one of these. I did take a photo of it. if I can find the image I will post it here. well I couldn’t find the images of the big model the charterer had but did find the tiny model they had.
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OUTSTANDING Mini Drill
jerome replied to Bill Jackson's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Years ago I bought one of these Dremel stylus type tools just for drilling small holes. I was so pleased with the tool that when it broke I went to eBay and found another one. Dremel had discontinued the manufacture of this tool. I have contacted Dremel concerning the ship model usefulness of this tool in hopes they bring it back. The speed was adjustable and would turn very low. I’ve broken very few drills in it. I drill a fairly large amount of holes during repair work (most of my model work is repairing sailing ships) And the tool is small enough to get into the models rigging and do its job. The handle fits your hand perfectly. The drill doesn’t wobble at all. If this second one breaks I will indeed buy another one.
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Micha, Thank you so much for your help. You have given me the food for thought. I will pursue the hammer work before thinking of a English wheel. the pieces to be made will all be less then 30” long. and fairly thin lengthwise. I’ll use a wooden former to hammer the copper against.
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This is indeed the tool I was talking about. Could anyone enlighten me on whether the top wheel being able to pivot be of any difference? And it would probably be a one time job to use this machine. my though was it might speed up curving the copper material as opposed to hammers and the marks left by them. I have seen a couple for less then $200 US dollars. simple machines. quality would be questionable. we will see if the hammer works better first go round.
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Has anyone used one of these? I’ll be coppering a model soon and have thought one of these maybe just the ticket. using thicker copper as this model will be cast adrift into the Gulf Stream for a long time.
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Have just read through this beautiful build and I can add some insight to your smoke stack question. You are correct in thinking they had a liner inside the smoke stack. this liner is the actual chimney for the boiler exhaust gases. The smoke stack we see from outside is sort of decorative. Getting back to the liner inside the smoke stack. At the top of this liner there would have been slots cut into the liner’s perimeter just below the top rim. this would help with draft of exhaust smoke. these slots would be a few inches wide by a few more inches high. if you think about it. heat rises. the vacuum created by the much hotter exhaust gases would pull cooler air up through these slots creating even more of an updraft. this would have helped keep the decks clean of coal cinder as well by pushing these cinders more into the hot air exhaust and hopefully dropping them into the water around the boat. I had seen this on a derelict ship years ago and have never forgotten it. Here’s my take on the liner aboard a restoration I’ve recently completed. probably not 100 percent accurate but it gets the idea across.
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P-51D Mustang by CDW - FINISHED - Dragon - 1:32 Scale
jerome replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Gorgeous! -
Very nice workmanship Jeff. a note for you regarding the thinning of Liquitex paint. they do make a product that is specifically for thinning Liquitex paint so you can airbrush it. I have never used said product but did see it on the display shelf.
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Nic, Something you may want to consider is mounting the model as is, under a glass coffee table or such. I’ve seen models mounted like this. This way you can display it, it will stay somewhat clean and you have no model building to do.
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Great subject John. Rare to see models of northern paddle wheelers. happy building!
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