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About Jeff-E

  • Birthday 08/27/1960

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Darwin, N.T. Australia
  • Interests
    Building wooden ship models and plastic kit models,
    Fishing, bushwalking and camping

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  1. The last parts to be fitted to the yard are the stunsail booms; these are lashed to the yard just outside the sling cleats. Some of you will notice that there are some blocks missing these being for the leech and buntlines; they have been left off because these lines will not be rigged on the model as there is no place to belay them.
  2. The topsail sheet blocks were next there are two on each side of the yard the outer one has the yard lift block stopped to it and fits over the yard outside the yard tackle pendant and the footrope; the inner one has a two legged sling stropped to it similar to the jeers block and is lashed to the yard between the truss pendant and the jeers block. The yard tackle pendants, as mentioned fit over the outer end of the yard and butt up against the stop cleat. The other two blocks fitted on either side of the yard are the outer tricing line block and the clue line block. The lower part of the yard sling was wrapped around the centre of the yard it has a 4mm thimble seized into it. The first photo shows the position of the blocks. The next part to make was the sheet and tack blocks these were made from 8mm dowel filed down and shaped and a hole was drilled in them for the rigging line. They were stropped with an eye so they could be attached to the lower clue line bocks. They were then fitted to the yard
  3. Hi All, This update is mainly concerned with fitting all of the various rigging lines and blocks to the foreyard; doing this before the yard is fitted to the mast is much easier than trying to tie them on after. The first lines to be fitted were the truss pendants these are spliced around the yard inside the sling cleats and wrap around the mast and attach to a double block which reeves through another double block hooked to the deck and belays on the two cleats at the base of the mast. The next item to go on was the jeers blocks; these were stropped in a two legged sling which was then lashed to the yard inside the truss pendants.
  4. Hi Don , Congratulations on completing a very nice model, well done. I like the addition of the fishing gear.
  5. Hi Slog, Thanks for looking in. The stand is the uprights from my mast stepping jig, comes in handy for other jobs as well Thanks to everybody else for the likes
  6. Some work has also been done on the yards. The stirrups and footropes have been started on the spritsail yard and fore yard. the stirrups were made from 0.5mm black thread on the foreyard and 0.25mm black thread on the spritsail yard. The stirrups were attached to the yard by drilling a hole in the underside of the yard a couple of millimetres deep the end of the thread was dipped in a drop of CA glue and inserted into the hole the length was then wrapped around the yard and given a coat of diluted wood glue and an eye was then seized into the end of the stirrup at the correct distance from the yard. The horses on the foreyard are from 0.5mm tan thread and the horses and Flemish horses on the spritsail yard are from 0.25mm tan thread. An eye splice is made in one end of the horses and placed over the end of the yard up against the stop cleats: it is then threaded through the stirrups and another eye is seized into the end this will be lashed to the yard outside the sling cleats I would like to mention at this point that most of the rigging cord mentioned is not supplied in the kit and was purchased as an extra; the kit supplied about 15 metres of 0.5mm thread, 20 metres of 1mm tan thread and 2 metres of 1.25mm tan thread.
  7. I have made the flue for the stove. It was made from 6mm dowel the end was drilled out and a cap was made from some 0.5mm ply. The ring is 1mm brass wire and the legs on the cap are made from 0.5mm wire. The flue was painted black and then fitted to the forecastle deck along with the remaining two grates. .
  8. The foreyard lift blocks and the blocks underneath the mast top for the leech and buntlines have also been added as well as the netting across the handrail at the back of the top. I have also made and fitted the pendats of tackles to the mast. The thimbles in the pendants are made from 3mm dowel with a 1.5mm hole drilled through them. The pendants are made from 1mm black thread and the seizing from 0.25mm black thread.
  9. Hi All, After the lower mast had dried it was masked up and a few coats of Tamiya semi gloss black were applied to the top section
  10. The yards were then sprayed with Tamiya Semi-Gloss black. The stunsail booms were masked and painted with yellow ochre in the middle section and then semi-gloss black on the ends. The lower section of the mast was also painted yellow ochre this was done with an airbrush. The two other parts at the rear in the first two photos are the bumpkins. That is all for now I will post some more progress soon.
  11. Hi All, The quarter irons have been made and fitted to the end of the foreyard I have also made the stunsail booms. This completes the construction of the yards before painting.
  12. Hi Richard, I have the same lathe as yours. I have the four jaw chuck and it adjusted by a 2mm allen key which is supplied with the chuck it cost about $70 Australian if my memory serves correctly. I do know that you can buy T-handle type allen wrenches but I am not sure if they make them that small. Hope this helps
  13. Hi , Fantastic build. With regard to your question about the topgallant shrouds according to Longridge and I quote "the topgallant shrouds are of 4-in rope on the fore and main mast, and of 21/2-in rope on the mizzen. the mizzen has two shrouds and the other masts have three. The first pair is doubled over in the usual manner, the third shroud goes over the mast head with an eye splice." I know this is for the 'Victory' but should be the same for this ship Hope this helps
  14. Hi Don, Looking really good, I especially like how the paddle wheel and smoke stacks turned out. Great work

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