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About Jeff-E

  • Birthday 08/27/1960

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Darwin, N.T. Australia
  • Interests
    Building wooden ship models and plastic kit models,
    Fishing, bushwalking and camping

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  1. Yes and the foreyard did not have a great distance to travel when they were setting sails.
  2. I have also made a start on the main deck hatches. These are made from 2mm pre-cut ply board. They are then lined with 2 x 3mm walnut around the edges. They will have 1x4mm walnut boards fitted to them later along with ring bolts and rings to lift them off with. I did consider using gratings but thought that the hatches would be sealed from the elements and could be opened to air below decks. The underside of the hatches was sanded to conform to the camber of the deck. Thanks for looking and the likes. All comments we
  3. Yes it is a bit unusual and complicated and I don't know how accurate it is but I am going off the plans in the maritime museum and the model in the powerhouse museum and a few other plans and drawings I managed to find. I do think it is an improvement on the kit design however. Yes I will be bending the planks at the stern to meet the counter I hope they turn out as this will be my first attempt at doing this. I think I said at the start of this build that the strip timber was of a reasonable quality, well unfortunately it is not. While it is milled smooth on all faces the
  4. Coming along nicely Keith, don't know if this will help but according to Longridge the fore yard lifts reeve through a sheave in the kevel and then belay to it.
  5. The windlass supports were modified so that they will stand upright the back scroll was cut off. The offcuts were saved as they will be used as knees in front of the supports on the fore deck. A 2 x 2mm slot was cut into each support 8mm up from the foredeck for the fore fife rails. The supports for the pawl and the belfry were made from 4 x 4 mm walnut and also had slots cut into them for the fife rails. The parts were then dry fitted together. And with the windlass drum fitted. Thanks for looking and the likes.
  6. Thanks Eamonn, a lathe does help allot but care still needs to be taken to ensure the holes are centred, which on more than one occasion has not been the case for me either! The fairing of the bulkheads and filler blocks has been completed, their not absolutely perfect and I will probably need to fine tune them in places as the planking progresses but I am happy with how it turned out and should provide a good base for the planks. As can be seen at the stern there is quite a sharp bend required in the planks from bulkhead 14 down to the first bulkhead
  7. Thanks for the suggestion Keith but I have found a brass gear in my spares box that I am going to use. The holes for the hand spikes were marked onto the flats and drilled with a 1.5mm drill. I then gently tapped in the point of a square needle file to square the holes. The pawl gear was the next part that needed to be fitted. This brass gear was from a kit I started back in the '90s and never finished, the hull was damaged in a move and binned but I kept the fittings and all of the strip wood and dowel tha
  8. Hi Stuglo, the paint I used was Tamiya X-14 Sky Blue enamel and did not use any primers or sealants. Being and oil based paint as opposed to a water based paint might be the difference, it covered the black fairly well. I don't know if they were ever painted black. Hope this helps.
  9. Hello All, I have started fairing the hull and it is taking a bit longer than I anticipated but I am taking time with it to get it as good as I can. In between sessions of hull fairing I have started to construct some of the deck furniture, this will also give me something to do during the planking process while the glue is drying. The first part I am making is the windlass, the kit supplies this as a three piece part (two supports and the windlass drum) and say to assemble it and fit it to the deck as is. While the part is of reasonable quality it is
  10. Very sad to hear of Dans passing. May I offer my sincere condolences to his family and friends. RIP Danny and thank you for all the help and advice you gave us.
  11. Thanks Keith, that sounds like a good idea I might do that for added security. The fore deck and quarter deck have been fitted. After fitting the fore deck I noticed a large gap between the horns on the bulkheads, which will be used to form the shape of the bulwarks, and the deck profile, so much that when the fairing of the bow is completed the horns on the first two bulkheads will almost completely disappear. The area marked in red in the photo below shows the material that needs to be removed from the bow
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