aviaamator

Thanks for likes and comments, it is very encouraging
 
Worked on transom wings today. Hahn plans do not have any lines for wings, except a very rough shape for the top one. So instead of a regular "cut-bevel-sand-apply poly-install" process, was using carboard templates to come up with a proper shape.
So far only top wing is installed, others needs to be better fitted. The bevels are small, proper beveling would be done on a hull - the shape is complex, it is difficult to pre-bevel. Thanks to TFFM and various build logs, all the nuances of transom installation are pretty well covered. However, I simplified the joints - instead of cutting slots, just glued wing flat to the last frame. Reinforced with treenails

The wing looks much brighter than the frames, strange. I was careful with the wood selection, probably it is due to light exposure of the frame. Hope it will get darker over time! 
 
Started cutting the gunports, first on the planked side.
The method is simple and is relatively fast, so will share. Sorry if it is too obvious.
 
1) Make cutoffs using xacto keyhole saw:

 
2) Remove wood with a sharp knife. It is easy because all cuts are following the grain


 
3) When close to desired width (in my case - I need to remove exactly half of the frame thickness) - continue with a sanding stick (it is like a file, but faster if using a coarser sand belt)

 
4) Gunport is ready to be finished with files (sill slots would be are also cut with files, and a square piece of wood helps aligning ports on both sides)

Made a very ugly jig made from plexiglass sheets, to get a straight 90 degrees for all dimensions when gluing the frames.
 

 
Looks working, now I am trying not to rush things and go slowly, one-two frames a day - glue should set, so frame will not get skewed.

The set of instructions for that kit finally arrived!
 

Pardon, just another offtopic Not so much to tell about the build itself, holidays, no time to build...
 
Spending New Year holidays with my parents in St.Petersburg, Russia, where I visited the construction site of 1712 frigate replica, Poltava.
Some links: 
http://poltava1712.ru/node/73
https://twitter.com/Poltavawarship
https://www.facebook.com/poltavaship
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQ-9kJyalp7_pm72J4Yb9_Q
 
The construction is sponsored by the symbol of russian corruption and inefficiency - Gazprom
Project has quite a fat funding, and there are around 100 carpenters working on the hull right now. 
The big hangar here is the place where hull is assembled:
  Wood storage (oak):   Interesting fact that wood is not dried or aged - instead, they make everything just from the "green" wood, but later apply some chemicals to reduce the moisture level and prevent rot. Unfortunately, I could not find out the names of the chemicals.   The engineers of the replica faced the same problem as Peter I, the russian emperor who was managing the construction of the original ship. It is extremely hard to find a big enough oak tree in a good condition, without any major defects or rot. The wood for that ship is purchased from a very wide region, basically all european part of russia. To workaround it, some really heavy parts (like keel structure) are assembled using a laminated, multi-layered slabs of wood. It is close to impossible to find an oak of that size nowadays... You can imagine how hard it was to find and process such a wood in 1712! I was surprised that you can laminate and glue a part that will carry such load and weight.        

Looks like I am becoming a hand tools fetishist.. There is something nice about working with a high quality chisels and knifes - no noise, no sawdust, and you feel like making a pinocchio
 
 
 
Especially surprised with the knife - it is the sharpest knife I ever held, it make a clean cut without any pressure, and it is heavy and sharp enough to ignore the grain direction!
But it reminds that as with any hand tool - you need to practice and learn a lot to use it nicely...

 
 
The shape of a rabbet was asymmetrical to meet the planks on a proper angle:

 
Result is not perfect, there are a few ooopsies, luckily most of them are on the inner side, which would be invisible.

 

 
I will not cut a rabbet on a side that would be fully opened. Not able to cut it smooth enough to make it fully exposed.

Modelling is temporarily on pause - was busy buying and moving into a new apartment. Now busy renovating it
Used modelling tools to make a balcony, does it count?

 
Next on a list - make a modelling table, so I can start my build!

Speaking of a fully framed models - a friend of mine visited an interesting project today - 1:1 reconstruction of Poltava, 1712 ship, partially designed by Russian tsar, Peter I, who studied shipbuilding in Holland. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_ship_of_the_line_Poltava_(1712)
The site is located in St.Petersburg, Russia.
Pretty interesting to see, looks very close to that build logs, and nearly-round shape of the hull make it look like Triton
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And it's a little earlier:

And it's a little earlier:

Today the surgeon reassured me, but was forbidden to lift a weight over five kilogramms. So train my hands:

Hi,
Figurehead on my HMS Warrior comes with this set of figures Celtiberians warriors.
Producer is HaT  http://www.hat.com/


 
Tadeusz

It is just perfect in all aspects!

Continuation.
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Today the surgeon reassured me, but was forbidden to lift a weight over five kilogramms. So train my hands:

To make the bowsprit....start with a square stick of boxwood 5/16" x 5/16".  The inboard section will remain square.  The outboard side is rounded off and tapered.  There are three square holes on the inboard sides.  But these start out as round holes made on the drill press while the entire stick is still square.
 
There is also a sheave on the outboard end.  The holes for this simulated sheave are also drilled while the stick is square.
 

 
Then the outboard end is measured and marked for the 7-10-7 ratios to make it an octagon.  From an octagon it is then made round.  There are many way to do this.  Mini-plan...files...by hand....then rounded off on a lathe or even chocked in your hand drill.
 

 
Then I made it round...in my hand drill...and taperred it to match the plan while doing so.
 

 
Once that was done...the simulated sheave on the outboard end was detailed.  I used a #11 blade to connect the holes and carve it out a little.  Then mini-files were used to round off the simulated sheave.  Later I will darken it with pencil.
 

 
The three inboard holes need to be made square...again there are many way to do this.  I decided to just use my #11 blade to carefully square off the corners.  The inboard portion will eventually be painted black.
 

 
The outboard end also has a metal band with four eyes around it.  This was made from paper.  You could use art tape or even brass if you wanted.  Again there are so many choices.  It was painted black and weathered so it looked differently than the wood elements painted black.
 

 
Then it was mounted in the hole at the bow and the fit tweaked.  Once it looked good,  the bowsprit step was slid onto the inboard end.  You wouldnt be able to slide the bowsprit in position if the step was already glued in place.  So this is a bit tricky.  But soon after I was able to get it all in position and glued securely.  Then I touched up the paint and cleaned it up.
 

 

 
Next up the long guns can be positioned....but I am unsure of I will add them.  They will look very crammed in there.  I will have to contemplate that for a bit.

Thank you very much, Mike! This is my youngest son! He is six years old.

I have here this is now also under repair. Is it possible for Your glider to see?

Hi,
Thank you all for your kind words, I try to pull this topic further.
 
Tadeusz

Very informative Topic! Thank You Very Much!

Very informative Topic! Thank You Very Much!

Very informative Topic! Thank You Very Much!

HI ALL
TIME FOR AN UPDATE OF SORTS.
 
WHILST WORKING ON THE WASHINGTON GALLEY IT BECAME APPARENT THAT I NEEDED SOME WAY OF CUTTING THIN STOCK FROM LARGER BOARDS.
 
THE HOLLY I HAVE WAS PURCHASED FROM A CHAP WHO HAD JUST FINISHED RESTORING A RIVA AQAUMARINA.......A NICE LITTLE MAHOGANY AND HOLLY RUNABOUT FROM THE 50S / 60S ?????
 
WHEN IT TURNED UP IT WAS AS ROUGH AS THE PROVERBIAL BEARS POSTERIER.......NOT HAVING THE ABILITY TO PROCESS ROUGH SAWN TIMBER I TOOK IT TO A SMALL LOCAL TIMBER COMPANY ,WHO FOR A MODEST FEE, PROCESSED IT FOR ME.......DOWN TO 8MM IN THICKNESS.
 
I NEEDED TO CUT SOME 1/32 " PLANKS FROM THIS FOR THE LOWER DECK......I WILL ALSO NEED TO CUT SOME 1/16" PLANKS FOR THE MAIN DECK AND QUARTER DECK LATER ON.
 
FOR THE LOWER DECK I IMPROVISED A SIMPLE WOODEN JIG AS SHOWN IN THE FIRST PHOTO.
 
TROUBLE IS I WOULD NEED TO MAKE ONE OF THESE FOR EVERY DIFFERENT PLANK THICKNESS I CAME ACROSS.
 
IM NOT OVERLY HAPPY CUTTING THESE PLANKS THE NORMAL WAY USING THE FENCE....THOSE THIN LITTLE PLANKS CAN GET UP TO ALL SORTS OF MISCHEVIOUS THINGS IF YOUR NOT CAREFUL.
 
AS HAS BEEN MENTIONED IN NUMEROUS OTHER LOGS ITS FAR SAFER AND MUCH LESS NERVE RACKING TO CUT THESE PLANKS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE BLADE AS IT WERE.
 
THE MAKE SHIFT WOODEN JIG PERFORMED PRETTY WELL, BUT I WANTED TO HAVE A GO AND BUILD SOMETHING ADJUSTABLE AND PERMANENT.
 
THE RESULTS ARE ENCLOSED FOR YOUR DELICTATION.......BUT THERE  IS SOME FURTHER WORK LEFT TO DO.
 
CHEERS FOR NOW....MICK

Anchors , catheads and davits. Part 2.
 


Jylland

HMS Warrior


The anchor davit replaced both cathead and fish davit

Passat

Kruzenstern

The anchor on small schooner.

From the stone up to stockless anchor. MM Stockholm.
 
Tadeusz