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stantona

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Everything posted by stantona

  1. Michael, You sure have me fooled. Looking at your build logs I would have put you in the expert class concerning all this 'stuff'. Alex
  2. I went to Richard, the saw man, today. The results are mixed at this point. He did not think putting the expansion slots in the blade made any difference. I was quite disappointed when hearing that. We had a nice chat then I came home. I decided to give it a try myself since I have a lot more experience with this saw than he has. With some cuts in honduras mahogany and maple I did not get the chatter. I will test more a little later on in the coming days. So for me at this point it appears to have helped a lot. I can post a picture of the modified saw blade if anyone would like to see what the fuss is all about. If it cut the mahogany as clean as it did, I'm sure it would cut bass wood as well. I have some bass wood so will follow through since it appears some people use that wood. It is the opinion of Richard and myself that the problem is with the blade, not the saw. Even though the saw is no Byrnes saw, it does run true and solid. When we find the right blade I will be a bit happier, and as I said, so far it appears to do much better with the expansion slots. One other quick comment. I went back to the Byrnes saw and made more cuts and though not near the same, if fed too fast with three quarter maple, it did flex some. When I say fed too fast, I don't mean shoved through. I'm talking about regular feed rates with common sense (whatever that is any more). But slow does seem to mean better. More later, Alex
  3. I hear you Tony. Nothing like 'hands on'. I've spent over sixty years building models, woodworking, and a little machining. Lots of books and trial and error. And yet...so far to go. I'm starting to believe I'll never learn it all!! I called the saw man today and he said he will have some answers tomorrow. We'll see. Cheers, Alex
  4. Mark, That is an excellent article. I was just getting ready to suggest using the bandsaw and thickness planer combination to make accurate small lumber when I see it covered quite well in the same PDF file. I have made lots of small lumber and not so small lumber in that manner. And, of course, the lumber has a sanded finished. I have the small Proxxon bandsaw which I bought to cut smaller pieces of metal and I must say it does that job well. But I also have a larger 16 inch bandsaw. I mention that to add a comment in relation to this topic. A bandsaw is one of those tools you can not only cut to it's capacity, but you can also safely cut very small strips of wood for that thickness sander. No, the 4 inch Byrnes saw blade does not fit in the Proxxon saw. I thought for sure I'd have word about the expansion slots in the Proxxon blades by now but I haven't heard back yet. I'll wait a couple more days and give him a call. Just a quick comment on taking up with model engineering clubs. Great idea for table top metal machining but you might be disappointed for model wood working. For that you have some of the best and finest right here on MSW. I have really enjoyed all of the posts on this topic. Cheers, Alex
  5. OK Guys, I have been watching and reading these posts and I'm going to stick my neck out and tell you what I think even though I have not gotten my blades back to test. You all know about thermal expansion when metal is heated. Keep that in mind for a moment. Look at your large 10" saw blades. Do you see the slits at the bottom of some of the gullets? These are expansion slots and most carbide blades have four of various designs...some straight, some curved, some curly. Without these expansion slots the cutting part of the blade heats up while the center of the blade stays pretty much at ambient temperature causing the blade to deform into a sort of bowl shape. This is the flexing and vibration we have been discussing. For those of you who also have the Byrnes saw, Jim ships his carbide blade with expansion slots which is one reason this problem is absent with his saw. Check it out. Look at the two blades. I'm afraid the problem is that the design of the Proxxon blade is at fault. In the matter of you who are using a slitting blade to make lumber...well, that is not what those blades are made for. They are useful for cutting various grooves and shaping in that sense. They have no expansion slots and have no set. Now that I've run my mouth, let me say that I wanted to wait until I got my blades back to do some testing before I wrote this. However, it has taken longer than I expected to get the blades so I thought I'd go ahead and say what I think since so many are are trying to come up with a cause and solution. BTW, I sent the Proxxon blades out to have expansion slots cut in them (the 24 tooth and the 36 tooth blades) and hopefully I'll get them back this coming week, verify what I have written, and get back to you with the results. I hope this will be the solution as I think the saw without this problem is not a bad machine for the price. It's not a Byrnes, but it's better than most. I welcome any comments and corrections. Alex
  6. Just an added note. My Proxxon exhibits the problem even with the Proxxon 32 tooth carbide blade which has a set of sorts ( teeth are wider than the blade and take a better 'bite' than your slitting blade). I've discussed this problem on the Proxxon Yahoo Group. Others complain about this but no one has solved it. There is a mechanical solution...just have to find it. That is why I think I might get some results by going to the blade company I mentioned in my last post. I'll try to go this week. Alex
  7. Harvey, I reread your problem and I know what you are referring to, however, there is no fix yet of which I know. If the blade does in fact have some clearance, then the insert is not the problem. I have the Proxxon saw which is the same as yours and I also have the Byrnes saw. If I am not mistaken, the cut is fine for a few inches or so then the blade deforms, vibrates, and cuts very rough ruining the cut. Stop and the blade runs true again so you push a little and repeat the process again. This does not happen with the Byrnes saw. You are not the only one with this problem with the Proxxon saw which, as I said, is essentially yours. I have even put stiffeners on the blade which helped but did not entirely eliminate the problem. I might add this happens only when ripping. The problem does not occur when crosscutting. I wish I had a mechanical explanation for what is happening but I think it has to do with the design of the blade more than the saw. Soft wood like bass wood is not so much of a problem but I don't use bass wood much...mostly hard woods. The only thing I can recommend at this point is to try feeding the wood very slow, painfully slow. That does help somewhat. Keep this discussion up until someone more knowledgeable has a correct answer of the 'why' if not a 'cure'. I live in Southern California and know of a blade designer and maker of carbide blades. I think I will take the Proxxon blade to him and explain the problem. Maybe they will know the cause and make a blade for ripping which will be a cure. I will, of course, let you know the results. Just thought of this while typing. It might mean a little thicker blade and/or kerf but, hey, better to be able to make a good cut. Alex
  8. I agree with Mark. It sounds like your insert is rubbing on the side of the blade. If I'm not mistaken, your blade has no set and you have a true 'zero clearance' insert. Do what Mark said or sand the inside of the slot a little to give the blade a chance. Alex
  9. Wayne, Happy Birthday. Are you doing a build log on the Emma? Alex
  10. Did you see the pictures here? http://www.shipwrightshop.com/shop/contents/en-uk/d9_Nelsons-Navy_01.html Alex
  11. And please don't overlook making your own plane. You can make it any size you wish, any shape you wish, and out of any materials you wish. Alex
  12. Thanks, Mark. What I like about your boxwood from a visual is how even the color. I have a couple logs of boxwood from Turkey that I am now sawing to small lumber and it seems real nice, but the visual shows the various grain patterns. I don't think it affects the workability but I'll have to see how it looks when making small pieces. It might not be a factor, but others might already know better than I. I made a workbench almost exactly like yours except I have a different shoulder vise and it is 'right handed'. It was made years ago and I have never done a refurbishing. Reading that you refinished yours has gotten me thinking it's past time for me to do the same. I don't know if you are interested but IPMS will be in Loveland this summer which just might be in your neck of the woods. It's always nice to see what others can do with other forms of model work. Some are real artist, though I've never seen anyone who can beat your skills. Thanks again for the info on the wood. Alex
  13. I might have missed it, and since I am too new to remember the old log, may I ask what kind of wood do I see in the pictures? Thanks, Alex
  14. I would like to second that. I know I've seen some really neat clamps by Danny Vadas and would love to see an instruction sheet on how he made those neat little clamps, but I know he must be busy rebuilding his logs. I also saw some neat clamps on another builder's log page but don't remember where. So if any of you have the time, thanks. Alex
  15. Thanks everyone, After I posted the question, I heard from Byrnes to check Rockler. Actually, I had done that but I guess I look for things just as my wife says I do...poorly. At any rate, this time I found two fittings that should work depending on your hose size or adapter size. The Rockler part numbers are #42248 and #26967. One end of each of these has an outside diameter of 1-1/2 inches which should fit to the inside of the machine's dust port. A little more. If you wish to have a hose connect directly to the outside of the fitting on the machines, Flexaust (www.flexaust.com) carries three hoses that have an inside diameter of 1-3/4 inch which should fit on the machine dust port. The hose numbers are FTE-T, cw-gp, and T-7. (Not sure about T-7, so check with one of their sales people. In fact, I'd check with one of their sales staff regardless.) I just found all of this today and have not yet tried any of these parts. However, going on the specs listed, any of these options should work. I would appreciate any new information on any of this. Thanks, Alex
  16. How have you connected your dust collector to the Byrnes machines' dust ports? There must be a simple way but I have not found a hose fitting that fits the 1-1/2" ID or the 1-3/4" OD size. Any constructive comments? Thanks, Alex
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