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    Picton New South Wales Australia

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  1. Its a tad hot down here.... The world's hottest places in the 24 hours to 11am (AEDT) on January 16: Tarcoola (Australia) 49.1°C Port Augusta Aws (Australia) 49°C Woomera Aerodrome (Australia) 48°C Olympic Dam Aerodrome (Australia) 47.9°C Hay Airport Aws (Australia) 47.8°C Oodnadatta Airport (Australia) 47.7°C Marree Aero (Australia) 47.6°C Coober Pedy Aws (Australia) 47.5°C Warburton Airfield (Australia) 47.3°C Ivanhoe Aerodrome Aws (Australia) 46.9°C Wilcannia Aerodrome Aws (Australia) 46.6°C Leigh Creek Airport (Australia) 46.3°C Wulungurru (Australia) 46.2°C Moomba Airport (Australia) 46.1°C Yulara Aws (Australia) 46.1°C
  2. It is reportedly good for 0.025mm, though most users are happy with 0.05mm resolution. There are callibration files out there which test minimum details, hole sizes, wall thicknesses and so on - I will run one this weekend and report back... At finer scales the resin quality would also affect the level of detail possible. There are many examples of users work which show the fine details possible on the net, especially on the Photon DLP users facebook group. These three came up on a quick google search but can confirm from the source page that they were printed on the Photon.
  3. Not sure this has been mentioned here yet. I bought one for $560 AUD, so US would be around $500 or less I reckon (though it IS from China, so not sure how the price will go there for you guys now!...) Initial tests of its capability have been very impressive, the detail is astounding - the attached columns are 40mm high. Downside is that resin is a messy mediun and prints require post processing - washing in Isoproyl alcohol and then curing under UV (ie sitting out on the back deck in the sun for a bit), its also a bit fume-y so using it in the lounge room in front of the telly is not on - its a 'down the back shed' style tool. Also build size is limited, but I certainly see a use for it and will be happily mucking around with it for a while yet.
  4. Pau Marfin? I hope so, I can actually buy that in Australia, Boxwood is very tricky.
  5. Hi all, I was dubious about the quality of these Ebay tweezer sets for the price but the free shipping made me take the risk and I am happily surprised by how good they are. 6 tweezers, all whose points meet up accurately and pass the 'pluck a single hair from the back of my hand' test with flying colours. I ordered two sets - one to distract the missus from taking mine - and even though they came from the UK to Australia the postage was free, so I ended up with 12 pairs of tweezers (thats 24 tweeezes!) for under $12. You have to go through your local ebay site to get the free shipping, for example: UK: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-Set-6-Precision-Tweezers-Epoxy-Coated-Watchmakers-Jewellers-Non-Magnetic/131707336758?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 US: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anti-Magnetic-tweezers-Set-Of-6-Precision-Epoxy-Coated-Tweezers-Stainless-Steel/162554991509?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 OZ: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-Piece-Coated-Tweezers-Set-Steel-Stainless-Non-Magnetic-Precision/362125433800?hash=item54505b9bc8:g:18AAAOSw0IJZ2Ztt Other locations can probably paste the item description into their local ebay to get a result. There are various sellers who stock them for slightly different prices and ebay feedback ratings....
  6. I bought a second hand Unimat SL in 1978 for $180, it came with almost every accessory available at the time so it was a brilliant buy, which is good because I was 15 at the time and that was lots of weeks pocket money and chores to put towards it. I still have it and use it regularly, though I've since bought purpose built equipment to replace the jigsaw/scrollsaw and table saw accessories. I've found this gent very helpful with spares, I've bought replacement brushes, bearings and belts: http://unimat.homestead.com/ He also included the original diagrams for the bearing setup so I was able to discover that I'd had them arranged all wrong for the last 35 or so years...
  7. Was in Tasmania recently and while at Strahan on the west coast went to see these blokes: http://www.tasmanianspecialtimbers.com.au/index.php They have timber slabs and offcuts of Huon Pine, King Billy Pine, Celery Top pine and other specialty timbers. I ended up buying various off cuts, then walking the 100 metres down the road to the post office and posting them home to myself. Got about 1.2 linear metres worth of offcuts of Huon and King Billy pine for around $40, plus a few bucks postage.
  8. G'day Michael, I have a Proxxon 28092 scrollsaw - it always makes this exact noise when I get it out and start it up but in my case its because the powerpoint I use is on the left of the machine and the motor is on the right so the power cord passes under the front of the machine and always gets in the way of the lower part of the oscillating blade mechanism. Once I reposition the lead to run behind the saw the noise stops and it is very quiet. . It always takes me a little while to figure that out each time - I should put a note on it to remind me!
  9. My first saw (1978 or so...) was a 36 tooth slotting saw blade mounted in my dads 1960's Black and Decker drill fixed to some kind of horizontal mounting stand that he had for it. I think the stand was meant to use the drill as a grinder or something. I'd bought C Nepean Longbridges book about building HMS Victory and I thought that a model of the Victory would be the perfect place to start my ship modelling hobby. I built a dodgy saw table around the drill out of Mecanno (spellcheck has underlined Mecanno - is that not a known US thing? If it isn't then its a metal kids building system - Google it for more info) There was no safety guard and I only had wood bought from the local hardware shop to choose from. I think I ended up using western red cedar. Maybe because it was softwood I still have both hands. The planked hull is still sitting in my shed, looking exactly like somethnig made by a 15 year old as a first attempt using hardware shop timber cut with a killer saw made from a childs construction set... What has this to do with the thread topic? I am not too sure but I do now have a Jim Byrnes saw and a full size table saw, which is one of the questions brought up in this thread. This is my full size tablesaw and its brilliant because a standard circular saw turns into a precision table saw. Is the Triton (or similar) saw table available in the states? Its an Aussie thing and is awesome and what makes it better is that everyone buys one and never uses it and sells them cheap on Ebay a few years later so like me you can get a bargain. The only issue is the waste due to the saw blade widths. So when the Oz dollar was buying more than the US one I bought a Jim Byrnes saw. The postage to Syndey was in the hundreds of dollars but even with that it was cheaper than getting a Proxxon one locally. And it is sooo good. I use mainly local timber -primarily Tasmanian - eg Huon pine - and given that it only legal source is from lumber yards scavenging from already fallen trees, its rather expensive, but the bigger the plank size the cheaper it is. So I use the Triton to rip large planks into sizes that the Brynes saw can manage. And the Byrnes saw IS amazing. Not just using it but everything about it - moving the fence, tightening the machined thumbscrews, feeling the quality... I'm not a plastic hater but not having anything plastic just makes it even better. I don't know why - it just does! Just geting my Byrnes saw out and setting it up brings a smile to my face. I do remember the postage cost a bomb, but I'd buy another one tomorrow. I think basically theres an equation you need to answer - cost vs satisfaction. I certainly don't need a Jim Byrnes saw, but I feel that the satisfaction I get using it outweighs the cost (even the outrageous shipping...) That said, I still look at my unfinished 36 year old HMS Victory hull and am amazed at what I did with a Black and Decker drill, a slitting saw and some Meccano.

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