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  1. here are are some small deadeyes I printed for someone else. If you want I can design Some blocks and send you the file to get them printed. All I need is a picture or drawing. yes
  2. How are you positioning the rose on the build plate Egilman? By that I mean at what angle. The trick is to look at the rose and imagine it getting printed layer by layer and then pick the angle that gives it the most contact with the plate and eliminate areas that hang out in space. If you are not already using them try the lightest supports and add more manually. I use a pair of mini side cutters to remove the supports and the tendency is to rush when starting out. Take your time and cut them gently with the cutters.
  3. Egilman, i would suggest downloading some files from thingiverse and practise putting supports on with chitubox. Chitubox will do it automatically but in most cases you will need to check them manually and add or subtract. The positioning of your model and angle on the build plate has a large bearing on success or failure. I dont use chitubox to slice my model, for that i use the photon workshop program that comes with the printer. If you need a hand just ask and i will do my best to help you avoid wasting resin and making unusable models.
  4. I have been using the wash and cure for about a year now and wouldn’t go back to the previous method. It is so clean and easy that I would recommend it to anyone starting out. The printers themselves have two lcd screens that are consumable. The main printing screen, depending on how often you use it, will need replacing at some point. Mine usually last around 1 to 2 years. Setting up the print vat with the PET plastic bottom can be a little tricky the first couple of times. Once you get it right though it is a breeze. I use a program called Chitubox to set my supports and positioning of the model. It’s free and then you send the model to the software that comes with the printer to slice it and you are right to go. If you are considering designing your own models I would suggest fusion 360. It also free for hobbyists and is a very good CAD/CAM program. It can be a little daunting at first but there are some excellent tutorials on the net for it.
  5. I have found that the positioning of the model and supports makes all the difference to the outcome. I used to try and hollow out my models but now i only make solid ones. All things that you learn from experience and can hopefully help new users with.
  6. I wasnt suggesting a substitute but an alternative if the brass hinge isnt available. I believe the hinge required is 5mm wide . when open, meaning each part would be about 2.75mm wide. Not sure where .8mm comes into it but the mentioned size is well within the capabilities of a resin printer and with a coat of brass leaf paint you have a hinge. Certainly worth considering.
  7. Here is my first print of a culverin Steven. I didnt put dolphins on it yet and i think some of the embossing on the tudor rose needs to be a little more defined. Otherwise i think it looks ok.
  8. Looks like I missed the boat, but have you considered 3d printing the hinges?
  9. Thanks Steve, glad to be able to help. A couple of thoughts come to mind about the 1mm deadeye holes. I could make them a little bigger or, as Roger said, there are some very fine wires on the market. Places like eBay have a large range and give you some idea of what is available. After making the deadeyes on Fusion 360 it has spurred me on to creating a culverin from the Mary Rose. I have almost finished apart from the loops shaped like mermen near the centre. I never realised how amazing the world of CAD is. It was one of those things that I planned to do but never got around to it. Your problem with the deadeyes was the catalyst for me to get moving, so I thank you for that. Let me know if there is anything else I can help with and I will look at enlarging the holes to see whether it is practical for your purposes. By the way if any other forum members reading this would like some help with 3D printed objects then drop me a line and if I can help then I certainly don’t mind. Paul
  10. Druxey, here are the technical specifications for the printer. Unlike the plastic type printers that keep the build plate static the resin printers have a vat that the build plate lowers into. The lcd under the vat shoots the uv light where the model needs it for that layer and then the build plate raises and lowers again and the next layer is printed. The layer resolution shows that there can be between 10 to 40 raise and lowers of the build plate to make 1mm. Mine is set at around the 40 raises or 25 microns per layer. Technical Specifications ● Printing Technology: LCD-based SLA 3D Printer ● Light-source : UV integrated light(wavelength 405nm) ● XY DPI : 47um (2560*1440) ● Y axis resolution : 1.25um ● Layer resolution : 25 ~ 100um ● Printing speed : 20mm/h ● Rated Power : 50W ● Printer size: 230mm*200mm*400mm ● Printing volume : 115mm *65mm *165mm (4.52″*2.56″*6.1″) ● Printing material : 405nm photosensitive resin ● Connectivity :USB Port ● Package Weight: 9.5kg
  11. Steven here is the 1mm deadeye up close. It seems to have come out pretty good with the smaller support. I printed 128 of them. I dont envy you trying to thread them.
  12. Thanks Pat, I am having another go at the 1mm version as we speak. I will take Henry (the staffy) for his morning walk and when we get back they should be done. Paul
  13. Steven, here are the 2mm deadeyes a little more rounded on the corners and some 1mm efforts that are fair but i think we can do better. The deformity on the vase if the supports is due to the build plate coming a little loose. I also think i can try a smaller support on the 1mm deadeye. What do you think about the shape? Are they closer to what you wanted?
  14. I was asked in another forum to explain the process i used to create deadeyes for the Great Harry in resin. I usually print models that i get from thingiverse.com which saves me having to create my own models. In this case though i did create the deadeyes in fusion 360 through trial and error mostly. I am not very proficient at using fusion 360 but i would recommend anyone who is thinking of using a 3d printer to look at some of the youtube video tutorials and learn from them. Once you have the STL or OBJ file that you want to print on your resin printer then there are a number of things that you need to do to print it correctly. Mainly around scaling and setting up the model correctly on the build plate. I use an anycubic photon s resin printer that can produce a high level of detail. If anyone has some specific questions regarding setting these printers up and printing models efficiently then fire away and i will do my best to explain what i know. If anyone wants to see what these printers are capable of i can attach some photos of models i printed and explain what i did. The attached photo is the deadeyes that i made earlier.
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