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tedrobinson2000

NRG Member
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    63
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About tedrobinson2000

  • Birthday 06/06/1939

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stuart, Florida
  • Interests
    Modelling, clay target shooting, cosmology

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    tedrobinson2000@yahoo.com

Recent Profile Visitors

351 profile views
  1. Hi Allan, I got the lawn cloth on eBay from mood fabrics. I got some white at first, but it was too starkly white, so I got some off-white ivory instead. I considered dying the white, but was afraid that as I got deeper into the sail making (Vic has 22 sails, excluding the stuns'ls) and needed more I wouldn't be able to match the tone. The ivory worked out well for me. I just checked Mood's website, and they don't list the ivory as being in stock, just 4 other colors. Other vendors may carry it, though. Don't know the exact thread count, but it is very soft and pretty sheer. Only $1
  2. My guess is that the "minimum" length specified in historical contracts was the minimum lumber length that the shipyard would accept from the lumber supplier - not the minimum length that would be applied during the planking procedure. Note also that short lengths of planking are much harder to apply in area of extreme curvature, such as the bows. Seems to me that the shipwright would have lined the hull in such a way as to avoid shorter lengths in those areas. Doesn't mean that shorter lengths weren't necessary elsewhere.
  3. Just wanted to throw my two cents worth in here on this topic. I'm making Caldercraft's Victory in 1:72 scale, and along the way decided to put sails on her. Caldercraft did not anticipate sails, so many of the fittings and belaying points were omitted from the kit. Not sure yet if putting sails was the right decision. Nonetheless, I had made earlier models with sails that had sewn seams in a slightly contrasting color to the sail material, and was unhappy with the results as the seams stood out too much - were too apparent. At almost any scale, the actual sewing of the seams would be all bu
  4. After I add the 2 lower main stay sails, the waist/boat stowage area will also be cramped and mostly inaccessible, so I'll add the boats now. The 4 boats have been made since summer 2011, when I had to be away from home for several months. The main Caldercraft kit was too big to take with me, so I concentrated on making the ship's boats that summer. I have resisted adding them permanently up until now, mainly because they are dust-catchers. My workshop area is located in my garage, and the dust level up til now was very high. I've had the garage floor epoxied recently, and now don't kick u
  5. I am trying to get the belays at the fore mast foot completed, as an upcoming step, adding the main stay sail and the main topmast staysail, will almost make this area inaccessible. It is very congested here now that I have added the belays to the focs'l breast beam assembly (fore course bunts, leeches, etc). The stays for these two staysails are belayed in this area (note the bullseyes behind the pinrail). The main staysail, which by name would seem to hang from the main stay, actually is rigged to what was known as a "spring stay", which runs sort of parallel to the main stay, but termina
  6. This is a shot of some of the belays at the foot of the main mast. Here the port truss pendant tackle fall is being attached. Belay of main course sheet at starboard staghorn.
  7. I have a related question- seems silly. I would like to post a picture, then add some commentary about what's shown, then add another photo and continue, posting several pictures in a single upload, with comments interspersed. Seems after a photo is uploaded, I can't get the cursor to go to a spot where I can add some text before I upload the next picture. All photos seem to appear serially after any text. Any solutions?
  8. Jeers bowsed up. Note that the running ends were pre-attached to the bitts on the upper gun deck, abaft of the main mast. This was done ages ago, before the quarter deck was installed, which would have made access impossible. Same goes for several other lines, such as the fore yard shhets, main yard tacks, main top yard sheets, etc.
  9. Reeving jeers.\; sling routed but not snugged up yet, Trusses attached to yard, but not yet routed correctly.
  10. I haven't posted here for the last 5 weeks or so, but here are some updates. Again, I apologize for the cockamamie way that I am posting; a mix of historical pix from the early stages of the build, and some current ones. I finally got to shipping the main yard/course a few weeks ago. The yard/sail assembly with most lines pre-attached:
  11. Hi Dave, I am in the midst of my Caldercraft 1:72 Victory, and had the same questions as I approached the ratlines. I wasn't happy with the rope supplied with the kit, so I made my own using Coats Quilt+ 100% cotton thread and Chuck's Syren Rope Rocket. The thread mics up at about 0.010", and has little or no fuzz. The smallest diameter rope I could make with the thread is two turns, which makes a rope about 0.013" dia. I tried that as ratlines, but it looked too big ( at scale of 1:72 it would have been almost an inch in diameter). So, I opted to use a single thread of the Co
  12. Hi Drew, I did the AL Bounty, finishing it about 12 years ago. I never posted a build log here on MSW, and didn't keep the plans. I'm more than a little rusty, but am absolutely willing to help wherever I can. I'll just throw up a few pix of the completed model here for you to look at. Let me know what is puzzling you and we'll see if we can straighten it out. Ted
  13. Correction: The button reads "Enable Content"
  14. Dave, Look at the ribbon in yellow just above the "Edit Program" button. It essentially says that you can't edit the spreadsheet (yet). Hit the Enable Editing button to the right of the message, and you will be able to then use the spreadsheet. Regards, Ted
  15. Here are a couple of before and after pictures of the plated hull. The first was when I added the plates in October 2010, the second shot id how it looks today with natural aged patina.
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