Siegfried

Hey, The plans are take from John McKay's book "Anatomy of a Ship Bounty es Bethia" In addition I'm using a copy of the original plans from the NMM. Cheers, Daniel

Just wonderful work!!! Thanks for sharing the pictures.

After treating the surface with 5 layers of the salt-vinegar solution and reducing it agin and again here is the final result 🙂 Now I have to treat the rudder as well. I also thinking about a protection band along the waterline made by "elm" battens but I'm not sure if this was common practice on such small vessels. Marquardt hasn't mentioned it in his book and on his plans of the Port Jackson Schooner. Due to the tropic conditions, especially in the North of Australia it might make sense to protect the copper on the waterline. But I can be totally wrong.

Good morning, After one night in the boil-in-bag the chemical reaction of the salt-vinegar solution with the copper is impressive and the sheathing got a strong greenish coating. Actually, it is too much for my taste and I have to reduced it (with acetone again?). Now it looks like a ship towed in the harbour standing still in water as seen on HMS Trincomalee and USS Constitution. However, I doubt that a sailing vessel afloat would have such a deep greenish coat on the surface of the copper. Due to the permanent friction of the water it actually would like more dull brownish, partially pinkish. Next stepp will be to reduce the coat and just leaving the greenish effect in the angels and on the edges of the plates and nails. Progress' coming soon. Daniel

Hello out there, During the course of last week I had the chance to fix the issue with the copper sheathing. By using some thin super glue I carefully fixed each single plate. Afterwards i had to clean up the surface with acetone and a little block of wood. Finally, I've cleaned up and smoothened the plates with some steel wool to prepare the surface for the weathering process. I made a mixture of vinegar and salt and cooked it up very shortly until the vinegar cannot melt any salt anymore, a saturated solution. Be carful! Afterwards the whole apartment smelled like vinegar. the first layer of the coat was put on the sheathing by a little sponge (normally used by my admiral for make-up...I need to discuss this fully with her later on ;-). Nothing happened actually except the surface has lost its pinky shiny glow and became dull. After one hour I've put on a second layer and put the whole model in a boil-in bag over night for a better chemical reaction. This time I just warmed up the solution a ted until it started to smell. Best, Daniel

Hello out there, After many years it's time to re-start my builds on the Mercury Schooner and on the Bounty. I moved twice and first had to gather all my tools. After being ready today I realised a major issue on both Bounty and Mercury. Several years ago I treated the surface of the pear with several coatings of linseed oil but no final coating with a kind of lack. As you can see on the pic the beautiful golden brown shine of the surface is gone at it looks dull and a ted blotchy. Is there any trick to preserve the wonderful shine of the wood after being treated with linseed oil? Al hints and advises are very welcome. Best, Daniel

Hello out there, After many years it's time to re-start my builds on the Mercury Schooner and on the Bounty. I moved twice and first had to gather all my tools. My plan for today was to fix the rudder on the Mercury, finally. However, During the last years the adhesive of the copper tape doesn't sticks anymore properly. It looks sh..., doesn't it? I tried to fix it with some super glue but with no success. hmmm. Has anyone a tip what type of glue i can use. I guess I need a very liquid glue. Every advise is warm welcome!!! Best, Daniel

Your patina is looking tremendous. What did you used to get this effect?

Wow, fully rigged in 1:30 scale she will be huge. What's her final size? Looking forward see more of you log, Daniel

She's a real beauty, what's your next project?

Hey Gregory, yes, I meant McKay's AotS, hhmmm, I assume the tubs are installed on the deck below, as the pipes wouldn't be visible due to the fact that the plant tables stand over them in the end, generally, once the main deck is installed all those details are only visible if one is looking through the tiny windows, I do assume not much details will be visible anymore however, what does it mean when he says the deck was covered with lead? was the whole deck covered with a kind of lead tile and looked accordingly silver-grey, how was the pattern? some kind of check patterns as the common black and white check pattern of master's cabins on ship of war made by canvas? has anyone an example or a picture about it, for now I am able to make some changes, even if it means, the work on the deck planking of the cabin was worthless,

Hey Tony, Thank you. And you're right, "Siegfried" wouldn't be a perfect band name, hahaha. If you like, you can check it out on Spotify or on YouTube. The music project is called "The Brute :" I already have released 5 vids. It's a blend of electronic music and rock in the style of the 90's. Next Double-Single/EP is to come in early '21 followed by the debut album probably in the End of March and flanked with a kind of short Music film of approx 15min. Last, we made a kind of James Bond Road Movie on original sets of "Goldfinger" up in the Swiss Alpes with kind support of the Swiss army. They have let us filmed the last scene in one of their mountain castles as the villain's HQs. While thinking of new songs now I need some time to calm down and to focus on my three vessels. Cheers, Daniel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsRJfzv5nAxBLqAc3XnsBTQ

Hey Shipman, Thank you for the hint. McKay hasn't mentioned something like this in his book. Was this a usual practice? I went to Greenwich and Portsmouth to see the Cutty Sark and the HMS Victory several times but haven't realised that detail. Would be interesting to show it in a future project. Best, Daniel

Hey Druxey, Yes, it is now again, the last two years have been very moving, two relocations and my music career was in focus to record some EPs, an album and making some vids, now it's time to calm down and move on with some wood work. Best, Daniel

some progress on the garden

Thanks Nils, it will be not seen so much when the garden is fully assembled. And now I am starting to work on the garden tables and have cut the air scuttles. Daniel

Extraordinario bonito! Daniel

Hello John, As your build is very interesting to me too, I have an old plan of a German barque Albert Neumann similar to meteor from 1869, launched and commissioned in Warnemünde/Rostock (Baltic Sea). The plans are a bit rotten and form a German model magazine from 1987. The lines are in 1:200 and some details about rigging and deck fittings in 1:100. All in metric measure. There is a belaying plan included. If it might help you, I can scan it and send it to you here as private mail. Additionally I can recommend the book "Von der Fregatte zum Vollschiff" (from the frigate to the full-rigged (merchant)ship) from Wolfgang Quinger. On Amazone you will find it to a low price. The book includes the planes, lines, belaying plan, deck details of the full-rigged three-mast-merchant-ship Alt Mecklenburg from 1856 as well as from the brig Auguste von Wismar. The Brig is originally launched in 1840, the plan shows her as she was fitted out in 1860. The lines are in 1:100 scale and in Swedish feet and in metric measure. The plans might help to get some information about differences from German builds to the well documented English counterparts. Regarding the rigging let me recommend you Marquart's book the global schooner. In the appendices of the English version are the frame and plank dimensions of German Baltic Sea merchant ships in 1835 following the tables of Gustav Klawitter, dimensions of the main-components and rigging, mast & spare dimensions for ships and boats of Hamburg-build merchant ships (North Sea) following the tables C.F. Steinhaus from 1856. Daniel

Each time, when I see one of your builds, I became speechless and am learning how to work precise. Perfect work. Daniel

Hello Tony, fantastic looking and detailed model. And this in 1/144 scale. Daniel

Hello, Now I have to think how to do the stern windows. One or two of them I wanna show oppened because my general plan is to show the Bounty exactly in the moment of the mutiny. Therefore I have planned al little water diorama as display on which Bligh and his fellows sitting already in the boat and some of the mutineers throw out the breadfruit plants off the stern windows. This is why I actually model the great cabin. The inspiration for this scene is inspired by a well known picture as seen below. In this picture two other facts are very interesting. There is no blue colour on the upper hull and the window has hinges on its upper edge and gets opened to pull it in. Regarding the blue colour on the upper planking I found a thread here on MSW which depicts a (probably common) sentence of seaman who have seen the Bounty before she set sail;" this pinkish ship comes to no good end". Personally, I do interpret "pinkish" as with less paint work. Most of the models and the tall ship replicas follow the colour scheme known from the Endeavour. But that might be incorrect. The black colour as can be seen on the second picture might be an option but I wanna paint her less and decided to do my colour scheme as follows: hull below the wales and above: natural with few coats of linseed oil hull above the sheers: natural with linseed oil instead of blue hull below the waterline: copper sheathed wales: black thick work above the wales: yellow ochre as known from the replicas ( but might be wrong and has to be black too) lower sheer: yellow ochre upper sheer/edge of the deck planking: black stripe between the sheers: blue (or better red/black?) stern windows: outside yellow ochre, inside white ornamentations: yellow ochre background of the fancy work: red ochre stern around the windows: black counter stripes: yellow ochre stern above the counter: I HAVE NO IDEA YET :-( (black or natural) handrail: black timber heads: black or natural great cabin: white quickwork above the main deck and colour inside: red ochre deck fittings: depending on my personal mood when I build them, but the gratings will definitely left natural, wood of the companionway might be black, the rest might be painted in red ochre (as common at this time on war ships) or I too let it natural Regarding the windows; all model ships I have seen to this day has been presented with closed windows. Does someone know what was common practice to open the windows for catching fresh air? Has someone any recommendations regarding the planned colour scheme? Thanks in advance, Daniel

Hello Michael, Hard decision you did but I can fully feel with you as I did the same with my build. Heart was bleeding but the current status of the build now makes me feel it was the right decision. If you are not happy with the result of the progress, make a step or two back to the beginning and do it again. It seems your laser samples matches perfectly. Well done! Daniel

Many thanks, Russ.