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About Dandyfunk

  • Birthday 01/18/1955

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  • Gender
  • Location
    South Carolina, USA
  • Interests
    Modeling, Bicycling, Reading

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  1. No, I don't have plans. It was a kit purchased at Lewis and Clark State Park in Onawa, Iowa
  2. I am finally resuming wooden ship kit building with Model Shipways' Benjamin Latham-American Fishing Schooner. I mentioned in previous posts that I had started the kit a number of years ago as my second build and intended to complete it. When I looked at the work already done I found the results unsatisfactory based on my current skills and that a tremendous amount of rework was required to get the kit to an acceptable condition. So, I took advantage of one of Model Expo's sales and decided to start from scratch. Following are pictures of the kit box and the new packaging plus photos of the center keel with the keel/stem, stern post and the bulwarks installed. I have cut the rabbett and done some tapering on the bulwark stanchions. The plans provide cuts to be made on the bulwarks to fair the hull prior to installing but I decided to fair the bulwarks after I installed them. That is one reason I added the spacer supports between the bulwarks and used epoxy to install the bulwarks. I have got the transom curved but will need to be careful with installing it to get the proper angle. I am looking forward to this build, I anticipate it will be a lot of fun and provide a lot more rigging detail than I have done on previous builds. It is also a big enough scale to permit a lot of detail to be added as I desire.
  3. It is a very nice model and I really like the base. The base is definitely something different! Dan B
  4. Richard: I really like your A-frame, you did a very good job on it. Obviously your soldering skills have improved significantly. The card stock for the dredge guards looks good, if it works use it!
  5. Following are photos of the above that I recently completed. This was a fun kit to build and the scale, 1:24, provided the opportunity to add details not possible with a smaller scale kit.
  6. I would like to recommend MarkF's suggestion of 2/18/13 as being an extremely beneficial way to post, expecially long, involved posts. I just reposted my build log MS Glad Tidings-Pinky Schooner, which even in its ultracondensed condition involved a lot of pictures and commentary regarding the build. I was able to note the pictures I was going to post then wrote the comments regarding the photos in WORD at my leisure. I then started a new topic in the Kit Build Log Forum, added the pictures to the post then returned to WORD. In WORD I copied the comments regarding the picture then pasted the comments in in my new topic post then went to the corresponding photo and clicked to add it to the post option. I just needed to make sure the cursor was at the end of the comments to insure the photo was located properly. This worked out well and I want to thank MarkF for the suggestion.
  7. This picture of the center keels with the bulwarks installed shows the first decision I had to make regarding the build. Due to Model Shipway’s manufacturing limitation of 3/16” thick laser cutting, the ¼” thick keel was provided in 2 -1/8” thickness keels to be glued together to obtain the ¼” thickness. The decision I had to make was when to glue the keel halves together, before planking the hull or planking the hull halves then gluing together. I was leaning towards planking the halves separately due to the ease of working with a half that would lay flat on the workbench then realized that this method would not permit me to eyeball the hull to try to keep the port and starboard planking symmetrical. I glued the keel halves with the bulwarks together then planked the hull in the normal fashion. Center keel halves assembled and ready for planking. Here is a photo of the planked hull. Planking was quite a task due to every plank other than the sheer strake having to be spiled. Fortunately, Model Shipways provided a planking layout with the kit that permitted me to cut the plank shape then sand or cut to fit the actual condition. This, I believe, saved me from creating a lot of scrap. Beams, carlins, bitt blocks, stack support, cockpit and planksheer installed. I also installed the floor drain in the cockpit and drain outlet in the hull at this time. Deck has been planked and nailed with .020 pins. I used scotch tape run across the deck in line with the bulwarks to maintain a reasonably straight line of nails. After I used the pins, I had second thoughts that perhaps I should have used treenails but it was too late to make any changes. Two photos of the installed bulwark stanchions and strakes, tombstone, knightheads, hawse timbers, caprail and catheads. The instruction manual advised that installing the bulwark strakes may be the most difficult aspect of the kit and after careful study, I believed the manual. I intentionally took my time and gave each step thought before I proceeded. I deviated from the instruction manual’s method of installing the bulwark strakes. The manual advised to install the strakes then install the tombstone to the installed strakes. I could only envision the strakes not lining up with the tombstone resulting in a tilted and/or twisted tombstone. I decided to install the tombstone to the strakes off of the model then fit the strakes/tombstone assembly to the knees and stanchions. I was satisfied with the results and think this was best way for me to go. A photo of the completed cabins with operating skylights and companionways. I also replaced the kit provided galley and cabin heater stacks with stacks fabricated from brass tubing and sheet based on information from Howard Chapelle’s ‘The American Fishing Schooner’. I must also mention that I received some tremendous help from MSW members on how to fabricate the working hinges for the skylights. I now know how to anneal brass which was and will be extremely beneficial in fabricating metalwork. Just a photo of the installed bowsprit and windlass These photos are of the masts, mast hoops and mast coat. I replaced the kit provided laser cut mast hoops with hoops made from 1/32” thick basswood strips that were soaked, wrapped around a drill bit then glued to form the hoop. I also added brass wire to simulate rivets. I was not too keen on the instruction manual’s suggestion to form the mast coats from a block of wood, so I fabricated the mast coats from 2 pieces of brass sheet and some loose woven cloth. One piece of brass was used for the mast band, one piece for the deck band and the cloth was glued to both to make the mast coat. After I assembled the mast coats I wasn’t happy with the appearance but I installed them and decided they looked pretty good after all. This photo just shows the booms, gaffs and sails that I had decided to sew for the model. The kit does not provide cloth for sails but does provide a sail plan. Due to the scale and minimal amount of rigging I decided to make sails even though sails seem to be a controversial subject. There was only one problem, I had never used a sewing machine but did have access to one. After lots of practice and remakes, I was happy with the sails and think they do add this model. Complete!! I am going to add more photos of the completed model to the Completed Kit Gallery in an effort to post in the appropriate forum.
  8. Following are photos of my build of the above. As with each kit, it was a learning experience that will be of benefit on future builds. I will also say that the solid hull kit was not the time saver as which they are marketed. On the flip side, I did learn to be very careful with the rotary tools as they can take off a lot of wood very quickly. I used Chuck Passaro's practicum which was of tremendous help and I would strongly recommend using a practicum for a first build. The practicum provided suggestions and resaons for doing things a certain way that may not be obvious to a novice builder.
  9. Richard: I used cheesecloth for the netting and was happy with the results. I think the cheesecloth will provide a finer and looser mesh than the onion bag. I, also, am assuming you have some cheesecloth already in the kitchen so you don't have to make another purchase.
  10. Following are photos of the Lewis & Clark Keelboat made by L&C Replicas and sold by the Lewis & Clark State Park in Onawa, IA. I did this kit for my parents after they had followed the Lewis & Clark trail via auto. I added the hatches, door, windows, scribed the plank lines and added to the rigging rather than using a pencil to draw the hatches, door, windows and hull planking as directed in the instructions. It was a fun kit to build and was a good second kit to apply what I had learned on my first kit without the time investment.
  11. Richard: I really like the pump you made, it turned out quite well. Personally, I would polish the brass and install the pumps with the polished brass and not paint them. The decking also has turned out looking good but I have to ask if Model Expo supplied the decking with the kit with such a range of shades? I have built several Model Shipways' kits and have never seen such a range of shades in any of their wood.
  12. The best choice for my listening is 'talk radio' which is NPR during the day abd BBC News during the early morning hours. I am not sure, though, that either of these are what is generally considered 'talk radio'.
  13. Richard; I have been following your build with interest as the Willie Bennett was, also, my first build. My recollection of how I did the trailboards was that I cut out the pattern provided with the kit then, with the finest brush I could find, painted provided pattern then glued the the pattern to the trailboard. I believe this turned out well as there was no way I could have painted the trailboard by hand. My build is in the gallery if you might consider this tact. Your build is coming along quite well but there is a good bit more to come. Be patient and don't hurry!
  14. Andy: Do you know if the disabled Carnival cruise ship in the news today, 3/15/13, was also built at Fincantieri shipyard?
  15. Richard: Yes, they are RH and LH threads and the steering gear does, in fact, work. It wasn't much machining , mostly drilling and tapping. I did a lot of things on this build that weren't worth the effort but the steering gear was worth the time and effort.

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