PeteGee
-
Posts
9 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by PeteGee
-
Determining thread size by model scale
PeteGee replied to David Goulden's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I am working on "Old Ironsides" after having been away from the hobby for almost thirty years. I love the rigging of it, which is where I am right now. Although this model looks a bit like she is coming back in for repairs after a battle : - ) I wanted to do more accurate line usage than large, medium, and small. I eventually ended up at the Syren website where they have a printout available with the sizes of the rigging lines they sell. When you print this out, you will have a picture of nine different rope sizes the you can use to measure what you already have and look at the various sizes to judge for yourself (visually) what you think will work for the function you want to rig. They don't include literal black thread, which is smaller than the .20mm that is their bottom size. I hope this can help a little bit. This is a great hobby...extremely rewarding at every step of the way. PeteGee -
Great Work! I do have a question...will that 'breasthook' allow enough leeway to step the bowsprit? Looks kinda tight to me. PeetGee
-
One of the best reference books I have come across is Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor by Darcy Lever. It is very complete...it is somewhat like the old Bluejackets Manual for new sailor in the US. Lever starts with the ropes, then the knots, then on to rigging and the like. If you stick with it long enough and build a ship big enough, you will even be able to learn how to sail your ship to the US. : - ) Seriously, it is very good and there is a very good dictionary of nautical terms at the very end. I recommend that you stay on board and continue building by going slowly, checking out every little piece of the puzzle (or model) as you go. As mentioned above, this is the place to be for encouragement and assistance. We were all where you are at one point or another. PeteGee
-
Geoff, Thanks for your great work! I have just caught up with your log, and having just started a 'Connie' of my own this past summer, I am really going "back to school" after about 35 years totally away from modeling. Thanks for being a great instructor. Mine is a 1/96 Revell kit so the scale of everything is a bit different from yours, but the lessons are the same: "Measure twice, cut once." Even though it is plastic, the same principle applies. Thanks again. Pete
-
The continuing 'saga' of my "Connie" build...Why is it that the lessons you need to learn are discovered only after one is 3/2 through the challenge : - ) I am starting to develop the channels and deadeyes at this point, and my question (of many later on) is: When cementing the channels and irons to the hull, does one use little bits of CA or is TenXr7 better.? Secondly: I have not noticed on any o the build logs I've seen where extra support has been done for the channels themselves. Has anyone done this? Any suggestions? i do need to say that the build log references I been studying are marvelous. Great work, guys and thanks for sharing. Pete
-
Ken, Just met up with your 'Connie' build. All I can say is "Wow!" What an education for me. Thanks for your great work. I will be following along as I can. I am doing the Revell 'Connie, ' but as I am just getting back into building after about thirty or so years, every little bit of education helps. Thanks again, Pete
-
Glad to see that you are back at it, Evan. Way back when you gave me some advice on putting the ill-fitting spar deck pieces together without the whole thing looking like Connie just left the battle. Things went forward fairly well until the winter time when I found out that CA doesn't dry well in low humidity. Any helps out there on this one? It really does take forever to solidify, then really dry. I am in Columbus, OH. Meanwhile, thanks for your excellent work as an example that is very motivating. PeetGee
- 446 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- Revell
- Constitution
- (and 1 more)
-
I don't know if you have an answer for this yet, but the way I tied the gun port doors was to use a very small drill bit to carefully drill the hole in the door. If you are careful, there will be no burring or breakage. Then, to get the thread through the tiny opening, I use a needle threader that I bought from JoAnne Fabric (or Hobby Lobby). These small threaders also come with some sewing kits. Once the gun port doors are firmly glued in place (with CA), you can thread the small diameter line through the hole. Drill the hole before gluing the doors in place. BTW—the needle threader is a very good tool for use in other areas where line needs to be drawn through small openings. Best of luck with your build. PeeGee
Our Emblem ®
