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About jimvanlan99

  • Birthday 03/01/1947

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Boone, NC and Athens, GA
  • Interests
    Model ship building, cycling, reading, travel

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  1. First of all, let me complement you on your model. It is looking really great. I have used Minwax Wipe-on Polyurethane Clear Satin on all the unpainted wood of the ship. That includes deck, hull, outer bulwark, and masting. I don't know where you live, but in the U.S. Minwax Poly is available at any of the big box hardware stores like Lowes or Home Depot. If you cannot get Minwax, I am sure any wipe on poly would be fine. I did not get the Fair American paint set. I have basically used two paint colors since I started the model: Testors "Caboose Red" and Testors "Flat Black." Both are acrylic and thus clean up with water and soap. I am not sure I know where one would use light grey on the ship. Hope this helps. And welcome back to ship modeling after your 55 year hiatus. I only got started with ship modeling about 5 years ago. Before that, with my job, I could not really invest the time or the money in the hobby. Now in retirement, I find myself turning more and more to ship modeling as a great hobby - and a lot more fun than my former day job. Jim
  2. This has been a long couple of weeks as I worked on the foremast of "Fair American." I decided to follow James Lees' treatise on masting and rigging instead of the specs provided with the model. Consequently, I installed a front fish that extends from the fore top almost to the deck, cheeks that also extend 2/3 of the distance from the fore top to the deck and "wooldings" to hold all these pieces in place. I followed the advice of another modeler to use 1.0mm X .6 mm pear strips to keep the "rope" of the wooldings in place. It finally worked, but I went through a lot of pear trying to get these very thin pieces to curl around a dowl slightly larger than the mast itself. Aaaaaargh! I have the foremast itself coated with polyurethane and my next step, finally, will be to paint the area around the foretop black. The "good news" (?) is that I only have to install six more wooldings on the main mast, which means "only' 12 wound pieces of pear. Following are a few pictures of a couple of weeks' work. All the best, Jim
  3. Chuck, Reading through this thread regarding the "Winnie" has really whetted my appetite. Your work looks absolutely marvelous. Are you taking names for "pre-sales" or will it be first come, first served? If you are taking names, please add Jim Van Laningham of Boone, NC, to your list. Otherwise, I will just keep my eyes peeled here and on your website for the first installment of the model and hope for the best. If the "Winnie" is anything like your Medway Longboat on which I am working now (and I am sure it will be even better), it will be absolutely wonderful. I really look forward to building it! Jim
  4. Been working on the bowsprit/jib boom plus the spritsail yard and the related rigging. I tried to do as much of the rigging before attaching the bowsprit permanently to the ship. Last night I attached the spritsail yard and put in place the last of the rigging needed to attach the bowsprit. I am becoming very accustomed to serving lines, since so much of what is on the bowsprit requires either fully served lines or at least serving of both ends of the lines. I must say that I am pleased with the results, although I am sure there are improvements/corrections that could be made. So, now I have in place the bobstay, both bowsprit shrouds, the spritsail yard lifts, the spritsail yard brace pendants and the jibstay outhaul. Also have in place the jibstay itself and both fore topmast stays. As for the pictures, please be assured the ribbons are not in anticipation making this a gift - they are to stabilize the ship in the cradle while I work on it. The first few pictures show the "mare's nest" that I had after preparing all the rigging. The rest of the photos show the rigging completed as far I could go at this stage. Happy weekend to you all. Jim
  5. This week, I installed the last piece of deck furniture - the bowsprit bitts. And that led me directly into working on the bowsprit and the jib-boom. I completed both of these spars, installing the bowsprit cap, the bees, and the jib-boom saddle. I put the two spars together and painted and finished both of them. I was then able to install the block at the end of the jib-boom for the fore topgallant stay. After lashing the jib-boom to the bowsprit, I then lashed the deadeyes for the bowsprit shrouds and the bobstay. This is the first time I done any serious serving of lines for rigging, so it was with served lines that I attached the three deadeyes to the bowsprit. Oh, and I finally put Ms. Fair American (the figurehead) in her rightful position. Here are a few pictures of the progress. Jim
  6. Johann - simply beautiful! Inspirational for those of us who love the ship modeling hobby.
  7. Johann, I thoroughly enjoy every one of your photographs and the beautiful craftsmanship that you put into your work. You set a high standard, which I never hope to meet - but I certainly will keep trying - thanks to your inspiration! Jim
  8. As always, a beautiful piece of craftsmanship. Your work is truly awe-inspiring. Thank you for sharing.
  9. Robert, I have a question for you, if you don't mind. I am interested in getting the Caldercroft Victory model for my next project. Now that you have been working on your model for some time, do you find that the wood provided in the kit is good for its use on the model, or do you find yourself replacing the kit's material with that from other sources? On my current model, the Fair American, I have replaced virtually all the lumber and have hand built the deck fittings to get a better model. I am wondering if the same if going to be true of Caldercraft's Victory? Jim
  10. Gerty, thank you so much. Greatly appreciated. Cannot wait to get on to the next stage.
  11. Just in time for our Spring relocation from Georgia to the mountains of North Carolina, I have completed 99% of the deck work for Fair American. The only deck furniture item left is the bowsprit bitts. I have this piece done, but don't want to install it until I have the bowsprit done. I need to install a few more eyelets on the rails, the hinges for the closed gunports, and I need to blacken the brass belaying pins. Other than that, the poop deck railings are completed, the channels for the chain plates are installed and I am basically ready to start work on the masts, yardarms and, eventually, the rigging. Maybe another year and a half of work? Cheers, Jim
  12. It seems like it has taken forever, but I have now completed installing the fourteen cannons on Fair American. In the future, whenever I am struggling over planking a hull, I hope I will recall my trials and tribulations as I worked on these cannons. Maybe it is because I finished my planking some time ago, but putting in these cannons certainly seemed more difficult than planking. I still have a bit to do with the cannons - first and foremost are the coils of line for the inhaul tackles. And then, of course, I have a number of items that need fixing that were damaged by my large awkward fingers as I worked with the cannons and related tackle. Cheers, Jim
  13. In the last week or so, I have managed to mount an additional five cannons on my Fair American, bringing the total to six. Only eight more to go! Also completed the installation of the ship's rudder. So things are slowly moving along. Cheers, Jim
  14. Messis, can you tell me how you download build logs on this forum? I would love to do that, especially Robert's Victory build. It will be invaluable for future reference. Thank you. Jim
  15. Bob, Both of those seem like great projects. I have watched Chuck's kit come to being and would dearly love to try it myself. Of course, right now, my full concentration is on Fair American. I will be following both of your projects as you work on them. Your build logs are always informative, instructive and just plain fun to read. Cheers, Jim,

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