submarinechief

If I may..............over the year's of using CA product's in ship model construction I have seen what appears to be "smoke"when the product is applied to certain types of wood materials. The "smoke" is more of a fume in nature rather than smoke. The CA fume will adhere to skin and other materials quite readily such as glass and plastic I.E. our skin is moist as well as is moisture in wood fiber. One thing for sure, if CA is used in large quantity and your eyes are subject to the fuming over a period of time there will be permanent eye damage. There are several types of applicator devices that can be used to apply the CA to the intended work which keeps the user from being directly over the work during use. These tools usually are similar to a hypodermic needle or a wire with and eyelet on the business end.....a drop of CA will transfer to the "point" from the container or eye and then can be transferred to the work..........if an accelerator is applied to the work prior to the CA using the same method, the "fume" will be pretty instantaneous if there is one and more direct to that spot. Some of the "super glues" which are sold in grocery store's in the very small tubes seem to be semi fluid but not as fluid as the thin CA and some of those do not seem to fume.........they take a bit longer to set up as well. None the less, CA can really raise havoc if not used with caution................been there and done that for sure!

Perhaps this will help you. I usually make my chain plate from copper wire strand, if you strip off the covering of 14GA multi strand wire for instants and nip off several inches of the copper and separate them you have single strand wire ready to make into a usable product. Take a strand of a suitable length and semi stretch it using a pair of pliers at each end, this makes the material "straight" Take your dead eye and pull or loop the wire around it and give it a twist........you now have the dead eye trapped with two lengths of wire which you can solder together. Try not using to much solder or heat.......... with a bit of practice you'll be able to turn out more than enough units with what ever lengths you will need. If the chain plate is not exposed outside the hull.... drill, using the appropriate drill size that will allow the soldered wire into the hole with out to much play then use a touch of CA or PVA for installation. If the plan calls for the chain plate to be exposed on the hull side......mark the hull at the stations according to the rigging plan for space and length (length if the chain plate) drill the appropriate holes and using your pliers, bend the end(enough to enter the drill hole) of the chain plate assembly, 90 degrees,align them all as needed and secure with CA or PVA. You can paint them prior to installation or age the wire in what ever product you are familiar with. If 14 GA strand is to big, try 18 GA or 22 GA.............also you can make "long narrow" chain plate using the headless brads on a board technique using copper strand. I have found the copper wire to be so much easier to use in rigging application than brass or floral wire, just a matter of what works best! Regards...............Steve