Jump to content

Gbmodeler

Members
  • Content Count

    198
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Gbmodeler

  • Birthday 09/05/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Spokane Valley, Washington, USA
  • Interests
    Modeling of all sorts mixed with the study of history; cycling; cooking (it is like building a model!)

Recent Profile Visitors

437 profile views
  1. I am beveling the lower edge of each upper plank to near zero for about 5 or 6 plank widths. It seems easier to do it that way (modeling-wise) as the plank is fitted and applied.
  2. I decided to try my hand at "clinker" (lapstrake) planking, since most of the historical photos of smaller (and older) fifies have that feature. I have never attempted clinker planking before, but it seems easier than carvel planking, so far. Also, the planks are being stained, rather that painted, for a more natural wood appearance. Again, the wood is basswood cut from 1/32" sheet. I find planking a slow process, but if it works well, it is very rewarding. The hardest part of clinker planking is getting the ends near the stem and stern posts to transition from clinker to edge-m
  3. Deck planks were made from 1/16" basswood sheet cut into 3mm wide strips. The strips were lightly sanded and then stained with a mixture of India ink, isotropic alcohol, and water. The stain goes on dark but dries to a "weathered wood" appearance. The more you dilute the stain with water and alcohol the lighter the color, of course. Trial and error finds the right mix you prefer. The strips were then glued with white PA glue to some off-white cotton "business" paper. I have also used black construction-paper in the past, but wanted to try something different, and a little thinner, this t
  4. More building-up the frame today. I added curved strips to the tops of the bulkheads to create camber for the deck. Also installed walls for the hold and a foundation for the decking (i.e. a false deck). The false deck is cardboard made from a repurposed cereal box.😬
  5. Making progress by cutting out and assembling the false keel and bulkheads... Paper templates glued to 3/32" basswood plywood. A "gap" in the false keel and some bulkheads will become the main hold. Another gap will accommodate the fore (main) mast. All the parts were cut out with a table scroll saw...
  6. Cutting out templates for the bulkheads. These will be glued with rubber cement to basswood plywood and cut our out using a power scroll saw...
  7. I have been researching the famous Scottish Fifies, and am inspired to try building a model of a small to medium sized boat of 42-feet (12.8 meters). Detailed information about these boats is hard to find. Evidently, the real boats were mostly built by sight, without the help of plans or half-hull models, so there is not a lot of documentation to discover. Most of the sources I did find focus on the large Fifies (60 to 80 feet loa) of the early 1900s. However, from various historical photographs and writings, I am under the impression that smaller boats were more common-place dur
  8. Galway Hooker by Gbmodeler - 1:48 scale - a small Irish fishing boat from the late 1800s
  9. I plan to present the model in a "heeled over" position, as if driven by the wind. Only one mounting point will be used, but that point will be a heavy-gauge piece of steel piano wire (about 1.5mm diameter). The wire passes through the keel and extends up through the center of the mast, for about an inch. The exposed end, shown here, will go into a pedestal attached to the base, which is a plaque...
×
×
  • Create New...