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  1. Thanks David, Kurt and Glenn for your suggestions. I couldn't find shot on the Blue Jacket website and shipping from England was cost preventative so after a thorough search (and an effort to keep the cost down) I ordered a package of 250 2mm OD ball bearings from Canada Bearings. Hopefully that will do the trick. Thanks again for your suggestions.
  2. Hi Kurt. Great to see your excellent work here. I am currently working on the Blue Jacket Constitution as well and I'm deciding whether or not to create the hanging shot lockers that reside between the guns. I believe you opted to leave them out. Your thoughts on this? Thanks in advance. Jim
  3. Thanks David! I'll check it out. I was at Home depot this morning and found some brass chain that might work. It looks very close to scale when held up against the canons:
  4. I came to a complete stop trying to envision the "hanging shot lockers" that reside on the inner bulkheads The kit sketches are....sketchy. Sorry Nic! No convenient Google images available. To further complicate matters I was (and still am) completely flummoxed as to where to source extremely small (we're talking 2mm diam.) canon balls. So.....I pivoted and made cannons. :-)
  5. After two month's work and over three thousand individually applied plates the coppering of the hull and rudder is done. More than a few plates were removed and replaced to create a smooth finish. Now multiple applications or flat polyurethane. So far so good!
  6. The fairer sex and model ships....they both have mysterious and vexing compound curves. I was a bit confounded as how to apply a straight line to a compound curve until I picked up a piece of highly flexible construction paper and had an "Ah-Ha!" moment. I'm going to clean up the plates above it before going further.
  7. I found about six different references on the best technique to copper a hull. All different! As you can see below, I ended up inventing my own laying in two rows of dressing belt at the waterline and four rows at the keel, then locating the widest point of girth on the hull and drawing a line perpendicular to the waterline. At the end of most rows the plates will be trimmed to fit against the preceding row. As expected the widest point will require one or two "filler" rows. That's the plan anyway. At least it's tidy! A note for anyone considering coppering: give the hull a coat of copper colour paint before you start. A few very tiny cracks of "white" are peeking through. Hindsight really is 20/20.
  8. Hi Nic. I'm torn between authenticity and model appearance. Normally I am not one to take the "low road" but in this case my thinking is, on the actual Connie, from thirty feet away do you actually notice the plates overlapping? I've done two rows on one side of the hull using butt joints and I must say I like the smooth surface. Also it guarantees a solid adhesion. Cheers! J. (Shamefully, not a rivet counter!)
  9. Coppering take #2. The keel is done and the hull is underway. Each plate is trimmed then attached with low vapour AC. Excess adhesive is immediately blotted out. Each plate takes about a minute with only 2,925 plates to go not that I'm counting...
  10. If at first you don't succeed! After many hours of separating the 3,000 copper plates from their spruces, I began the process of adhering the individual plates starting with the stem post and working along the keel. I laid the plates longitudinally along the keel giving me a 1/64th wraparound on either side. Also, as recommended, I slightly overlapped the plates as per the original. After about fifty plates, I stood back and reviewed my work. I should have stopped after three! Ugh! Despite adopting a VERY careful process, the result appeared messy. To add insult to injury, the adhesive was tarnishing the copper. Time to tear off the unsightly, step back, and give this a re-think! Hopefully I'll still have enough plates to complete the job. Despite the recommendation to overlap the plates for authenticity, I believe I might "butt" them for a smoother hull finish. Thoughts?
  11. New one I would assume as this was purchased earlier this year. Talk about service: I came in to the store asking for the Connie kit and was told there wasn't one in stock! Imagine my dismay as I had driven down from Canada! I was asked could I hang around for thirty minutes? Not a problem as I got to check out the fabulous displays. Sure enough, one of the Blue Jacket crew assembled a Connie kit for me on the spot and I left a very happy customer. Now that's service! Thanks Nic and Co.!
  12. After a short hiatus I'm back to work on the Connie. I've opted to copper the hull as per the original. The job requires approximately 1 500 plates, available as an option through Blue Jacket Shipcrafters. The first task is to remove the plates from the copper sprue. After that, affix each plate individually to the sealed hull. I'm a bit concerned about the gore strakes so a little more research is called for. I don't see a shortcut, so I'll see you sometime in 2020!
  13. I'm quite pleased with the "authentic" look of the stained planking. The Constitution drawings indicate that the caprail overhangs the bulwark on either side by approximately 1/32" but with the addition of the optional interior and exterior planking, the bulwark is too wide. Two hours of further sanding brought the bulwarks do wn to a better fit. First interior plank is set, with some further adjustments needed.

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