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NWdiverTodd

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Bellingham WA
  • Interests
    Sailing, diving, flying, and model ships.

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  1. If you head north during the week, Bellingham has Hardware sales and Grizzly. Hardware sales has most every tool you can imagine, both power and hand. They also have all sorts of raw stock and fasteners. Grizzly has some great deals on things like machinist squares\micrometers and other tool items. -Todd
  2. Hi Bigcreek, At first blush I would think you are adding pressure into the side of the blade. This usually happens when you are pushing stock through the saw with pressure added past the leading edge of the blade. The reason people do this is to keep the stock tight against the fence, but in essence you are pressing (or pinching) the stock into the blade. The following link has lots of good ideas for using the saw: http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php Another possibility is that the wood has a strong counter grain and would be better cut from the other end of the sheet. -Todd
  3. What steps did you take to make the drilling process successful? Your model looks so clean and trim! Well done on the copper! -Todd
  4. It may well help with the fairing. I centered mine fit snug to help me get a nice 90deg. angle. That was the hope anyway. -Todd
  5. Really wonderful work! That is one part of the build that has me a bit intimidated. Very symmetrical.
  6. Thanks very much for posting this part of your build! I really dislike the bits that came with the kit, but have not allowed myself to think about how hard it will be to scratch these. Your work and process will be invaluable to me in the near future. These are coming along very well indeed! -Todd
  7. Great idea to post a video of your work space! Thank you very much. There are many good ideas here that I can put to use in my own space. -Todd
  8. Looks really good Charley! I'm almost there, just doing the stern framing now. I had to buy the pen sander as well. I really like it. I think I'll follow your lead and fill in the stern, it should help me visualize the shape. Very well done! -Todd
  9. Wow!! Cool video. I can't even imagine how much more difficult it would have been without some modern tools and cranes. It really made me think about how much of an investment every ship was to a country.
  10. Thanks Richard. I am totally with you on not spending another $100 on pretty woods for a first build. Well, I say that but... I was planning on just ordering boxwood for the planking above the wales, then I was thinking, it's not THAT much more to grab some holly for the deck, and I might grab some for the cap rail, and perhaps a bit of beech for the stern, and, and , and... So, now I'm ordering some wood to play with. Thanks to your pictures, I have to run down and buy the dremel "router" table. I've been using a spindle sander, but the dremel will fit in my ship work area and i'll have better control with smaller pieces. At least that's what I'm telling myself. What do you think of your proxon jigsaw? I like the small footprint. -Todd
  11. Chuck has kindly replied about the long boat. Follow the plans, not the book. There should be only 5 total pieces, the bottom and 4 lifts. Thanks again Chuck! -Todd
  12. Thanks Richard :-) I wondered what the minimum width needed to make the cap rail, they didn't have boxwood in 4" widths. I measured it when I got home and it looks like ~2.5" Thanks as always for showing your process, it is VERY helpful to me. -Todd
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