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  1. Micro-Mark provides the smallest brass pins I have found. You could also try doll house suppliers on line. Scott
  2. For clarification , as I was typing my opinion to your question no one had responded yet. When I mentioned that not gluing the mast was not the best advice I was referring to the directions from the instructions. Not to the two individuals that beat me to the draw of the submit reply. As individual hobbyist/artist we have are own way of doing things that work best for us. In simple terms, real ships mast are predominately held in place from the forces of gravity and friction acting on the mast tonnage, steps, wedges, and the forces exerted by the standard rigging. Sco
  3. Not sure what size model you are building, but to recommend not gluing mast in place to me is not the right advise. I've always worked it so that I have all the mast, spars, and blocks assembled first, then I would dry fit them into the holes established in the deck. This would act as a holder to work on various rigging like footropes, etc... After that I would glue them into position. Leaving them unglued would allow them to move about, be it very small, but enough to make the rigging lines difficult to align properly. Scott
  4. Those are beautiful cases. Kind of in the goldilocks syndrome where they don't over or underpower the artwork they are meant to protect. Just right. I found the photos of the various displays that were included with the website interesting. The one in particular the flower display looked very realistic and I have never seen one of those before. Thank you for posting. Scott
  5. Not sure myself, but I have seen pins located in the boom jaws before. Although the photos I am checking this against is a bit difficult to see, Erik Ronnberg is using them on his Smuggler and knockabout schooner Thomas A. Cromwell. The lines look like they are traveling against the main boom from aft to forward and belayed to the pins. For the Smuggler Ronnberg is identifying them as topping lift starboard and boom tackle port. Cleats are for flag halliards. He does not identify the lines for Cromwell. Scott
  6. About not receiving book order conformations on the website when ordering. I spoke to Bob a long while ago about this and he mentioned that the website was set up that way not to confirm orders without providing an explanation. Have not used the site in a while so I don't know if that changed. He also mentioned that he was very ill and was trying to keep up with orders. I new he got my order since my credit card was charged. He was very gracious to me on the phone and able to correct the situation promptly. I wish him a speedy recovery since they were a great outfit to deal with in the past.
  7. I can see muskets being mounted on the top deck capstan for short periods of time. But not for long periods since the fragile trigger and flint lock mechanisms would be exposed to the corrosive effects of the sea elements. Understood that these weapons were stored below deck when not in use.
  8. I think shaking can produce bubbles/air pockets that will remain with the paint for sometime. Plus shaking the bottle can gum up the caps if not cleaned properly.
  9. Forgot to mention the scissors. Preferably one that has a sheering action or slight curve to the blade although strait ones can work well. I use different types that don't even contain the manufactures names and are not so expensive. When they get dull I use them to cut wire. Trial and error may be the way unless some of the other site followers can give specific company names that work well. Some can be very pricey. Also, I don't recommend needle threaders for pulling lines through blocks or deadeyes, etc... Instead just cut the tip of the line, at an angle, and use something like supper clue
  10. For decades I have used the same approach as I originally started with. Even though I have seen others use a different styles. I first assemble and paint all the mast and individual spars with bands for blocks attached. Making sure each individual mast, lower and upper, are aligned correctly. After painting I add the blocks to the bands for both mast and spars. Then I attach the spars to the mast. I then will use the mast holes in the deck to secure the mast in place and work on the foot ropes for the spars. Then I attach any gaffs. When all the spars/gaffs are in place I glue the mast in the
  11. Not familiar with the Mystique. Normal practice is to the have bulwarks planking fastened the same as the rest of the hull planking.
  12. Model Expo and Northeastern Scale Lumber sell a number of woods including basswood in different sizes. Scott
  13. For clarification, I built the Scientific Sea Witch kit when I was a kid decades ago. It did not look anything like the attached photo and was smaller. If the manufacturer name is not on the brass plate on the stand then more then likely it is the Marine Models Company kit. Although I have never seen it. Basing the size of the vessel you have pictured with the size of the table it looks like 1/8" in scale. Your uncle may or may have not followed the plans exactly when making it and used his own judgement on how it looked. Other than the hull, mast, and spar dimensions there are no plans o
  14. Marine Models Company, no longer in business, had a 1/8" scale model kit of Sea Witch. From your photos this may have been what was used. There may be a set of plans out there on the web someplace. The only glue I know of that sets quickly would be the Super Glue type. Depending on what glue was used originally, you may have problems with Super Glue setting correctly. The other glue I use is Duco Cement. A few individuals prefer to use a carpenters type glue, but I have had great success using Duco for over 55 years on dry surfaces. I believe there are some threads on the subject of glues on t
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