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stm

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  1. About not receiving book order conformations on the website when ordering. I spoke to Bob a long while ago about this and he mentioned that the website was set up that way not to confirm orders without providing an explanation. Have not used the site in a while so I don't know if that changed. He also mentioned that he was very ill and was trying to keep up with orders. I new he got my order since my credit card was charged. He was very gracious to me on the phone and able to correct the situation promptly. I wish him a speedy recovery since they were a great outfit to deal with in the past.
  2. I can see muskets being mounted on the top deck capstan for short periods of time. But not for long periods since the fragile trigger and flint lock mechanisms would be exposed to the corrosive effects of the sea elements. Understood that these weapons were stored below deck when not in use.
  3. I think shaking can produce bubbles/air pockets that will remain with the paint for sometime. Plus shaking the bottle can gum up the caps if not cleaned properly.
  4. Forgot to mention the scissors. Preferably one that has a sheering action or slight curve to the blade although strait ones can work well. I use different types that don't even contain the manufactures names and are not so expensive. When they get dull I use them to cut wire. Trial and error may be the way unless some of the other site followers can give specific company names that work well. Some can be very pricey. Also, I don't recommend needle threaders for pulling lines through blocks or deadeyes, etc... Instead just cut the tip of the line, at an angle, and use something like supper clue
  5. For decades I have used the same approach as I originally started with. Even though I have seen others use a different styles. I first assemble and paint all the mast and individual spars with bands for blocks attached. Making sure each individual mast, lower and upper, are aligned correctly. After painting I add the blocks to the bands for both mast and spars. Then I attach the spars to the mast. I then will use the mast holes in the deck to secure the mast in place and work on the foot ropes for the spars. Then I attach any gaffs. When all the spars/gaffs are in place I glue the mast in the
  6. Not familiar with the Mystique. Normal practice is to the have bulwarks planking fastened the same as the rest of the hull planking.
  7. Model Expo and Northeastern Scale Lumber sell a number of woods including basswood in different sizes. Scott
  8. For clarification, I built the Scientific Sea Witch kit when I was a kid decades ago. It did not look anything like the attached photo and was smaller. If the manufacturer name is not on the brass plate on the stand then more then likely it is the Marine Models Company kit. Although I have never seen it. Basing the size of the vessel you have pictured with the size of the table it looks like 1/8" in scale. Your uncle may or may have not followed the plans exactly when making it and used his own judgement on how it looked. Other than the hull, mast, and spar dimensions there are no plans o
  9. Marine Models Company, no longer in business, had a 1/8" scale model kit of Sea Witch. From your photos this may have been what was used. There may be a set of plans out there on the web someplace. The only glue I know of that sets quickly would be the Super Glue type. Depending on what glue was used originally, you may have problems with Super Glue setting correctly. The other glue I use is Duco Cement. A few individuals prefer to use a carpenters type glue, but I have had great success using Duco for over 55 years on dry surfaces. I believe there are some threads on the subject of glues on t
  10. Both are correct depending on the vessel or year. Merchant vessels normally have it secured to the underside of the bowsprit cap with eyelet and hook. Most of the war vessels I have built have the dolphin striker secured to the front of the bowsprit cap or none at all. Even with it hanging loosely the tension on the lines are enough to keep the striker in place. Scott
  11. I may not be the one to comment on this since I am not knowledgeable on this type of vessel, but you may have already answered your question at least partially. "Looks pretty cool, anyway". These ships of this period and earlier where very ornate and stylish. The blocks serve a purpose in adjusting the tension on the lines as needed. Setting them up this way made it look more fancy as were a number of running rigging lines of ships for that time period. Most of which probably could have been step up more simply. Could also be something as simple as "if it ain't broke don't fix it". Meaning th
  12. Good book to add to your library that is reasonably priced. Has photos of leading model makers work including Ed Marple. Scott
  13. Brooklyn Navy Yard has a detail model of Ohio similar to your later photo. They may be a good source of information on her earlier years. https://www.navyhistory.org/2011/10/uss-ohio-model-at-brooklyn-navy-yard-center-at-building-92/
  14. I believe there was a book published long time ago that incorporated the individual magazines from the 30s into one binder. Could not find it on line and I may be mistaken, but it kind of sounds like these were the magazines. I actually had a copy of the book, but donated it to charity along with other items years ago. Scott
  15. I understood the same thing about shellac, that it had an unlimited shelf life. Did have a small can of orange shellac that was decades old and used it for a small project with good results. Used it again a few years later to find that the can was no longer providing a proper seal. Poured the contains into a glass jar and used it five years later on and still worked fine. Unfortunately a few years again had passed and I tried to use it for one of my ships only to find that it refused to dry after several attempts and would remain tacky. May be not always an unlimited shelf life. Scott
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