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  1. A very enjoyable and educational voyage indeed. You are a very intelligent and skillful individual Ed to present this to all your followers. Thank you very much for your efforts and to all that submitted additional detail and knowledge. William Crothers and William Webb would surely be impressed with the results. Scott
  2. I am in the minority. I have been using CA on rigging lines for decades and have never had a problem. PVA may be a better choice based on those who have tried both, which I have not. I use a very small amount so as not to change the color of the line. Scott
  3. I Googled the USS Constitution and found several pictures of the actual ship and models of her. All had the lines black including the actual ship. I have seen three different types of netting over time used. Some with square, some diamond, and some with straight lines of rope. Never hexagon which some modelers use since it is available and at least close to the real thing. I know that the present Constitution was rigged mainly with nylon dyed black due to the difficulty in finding proper sizes of hemp. There is a good chance that ship board practice was to treat the netting with some type of preservative making them very dark drown or black in appearance. Scott
  4. I googled "Brigantine Leon" and looked at the various ship models that surfaced. Some very intricate. Only one had the bell attached to the pawl bitt. I can't tell exactly how it is attached, but it is very similar to the photo above in post #5. That would be your best bet. The book has Leon's port of registry as Porsgrund, but I guess that doesn't have to be the name on the bell. I didn't look through the book to see if Underhill made mention of it. From the photos, you are doing a very nice job on the model and wish you continued success with it. That calking of the deck planks looks very realistic. I built mine in the early 1970s and it sailed away from a NYC gallery. Where it is today I have no idea. Thanks for the picture of the bell from the museum. Scott
  5. Was there actually a legal or customary requirement for all ships to have bells back then? Even today? I am not sure what the correct answer is. I looked on line for one, but was unable to find a definitive answer. There was an indication that some present day yachting enthusiasm use hand held bells which may have been used back in time. I built the Leon decades ago and did not included a bell since it was not on the plans if I recall correctly. I am more likely to accept that is the case when using very detailed plans from individuals with high standards thinking the bell was omitted for a reason. Possibly someone who served on the Coast Guard would know the answer. Scott
  6. I have had this discussion briefly with a few gallery owners in the past. One of the benefits to not painting your art work is to appeal to buyers who want to see the joinery of the planking. This, as mentioned above, is far more difficult to do correctly since you will not have the luxury of hiding any defects with filler or paint. Having said this, the majority of the galleries customers like to see the art work in period colors. Keep in mind most of the paints back then were not purchased from your locale giant retail box stores that we have today, but were mixed on site or locale paint store provider. The shades of color can very each time depending on the amount of the pigments being used. This can lead to a part of the ship being a shade different from the rest if not developed in the proper quantity requiring additional paint mixing at a later time. If your going to use various expensive woods to show a color tone to accent the detail, then it would be best not to use paint. American Linden (basswood) would be a better alternative to use when painting. Keeping in mind not to sand the planking down to fine so as not to prevent the individual planks from being seen. Ed Tosti's excellent building of the Young America is great example of blending both painting and leaving parts unpainted to show additional detail. Scott
  7. Chuck for clarification purposes, this discussion is talking about line that is 100% polyester and not the cotton covered polyester variety, correct? I have used the cotton/polyester line past and present and find it to be a very suitable choice. Just want to make sure the museum in question is asking for the line to be totally synthetic. The cotton covered polyester was mention briefly by one of your followers earlier. Scott
  8. These last few posts have been an excellent source of information that is not usually discussed. This is a great example of what Ed has started in educating individuals through his various sites, books, expertise, craftsmanship, and from contributions by his followers. Very rewarding. One general thought about rigging that came to mind when reading the previous is how the extreme weather conditions played a roll in maintaining the rigging during extended voyages. Ropes must have been exposed to extreme changes in temperatures, winds, rain, and sea spray that must have played havoc with the lines. Have not read to much about this unless it was as a result of a severe storm. Possibly our sailing forefathers had it under control through experience on how to meet this challenge without having to much of an impact on a ships progress. Scott
  9. Ed per your question earlier, the American Marine Model Gallery did not offer a particular linen brand, just type of material. The owner of this gallery worked for Mystic Sea Port at one point and the standards were actually developed the time that he was there. Published 1980. Scott
  10. I found from personal experience that the Londonderry line is not suitable for the purpose ship modelers are trying to achieve which is weaved "scale" rope that perfectly/closely as possible matches the real thing. I am sure that it is excellent for what the manufacturer intended it to be used for such as book binding since it is very strong. It didn't stain well using MinWax oil base, but did with General Finish water base that was recommended from a previous posting. I experimented taking the line right off the real. May be it would work better weaving it into a larger line. It can still be used to some extent though. Possibly someone with more knowledge will have better results that can be shared. The DMC cotton line is impressive, but I mainly use linen which fits the museum standard developed by the American Marine Model Gallery as the preferred choice. Mainly due to linens durability as opposed to cotton. Cotton/polyester is a good alternative. There was a posting years ago on line from a leading maritime artist and restorer concerning this subject. He went into detail on the various products out there and made the statement that stuck with me to this day. And that is "not to get to hung up on this". I get his point, but unfortunately I am obsessed with quality and never seem to be satisfied. Thankfully we have the people who have become masters in the art form which we can mentor, such as Ed and Johann, whos shared knowledge has benefitted a lot of individuals. Scott
  11. Ed I am in the process of revising the way I stain running rigging and wanted your input. I am having difficulty finding where this was discussed in the past. Would you please identify the Part number where this is posted or the page number where this information can be found in the books that you published. Thank you so very much. Scott
  12. Michael and Wefalck that was an excellent question and answer concerning the reason for ropes being sized by circumference. I never new what the reason was and found this to be an interesting take and observation on an important detail in ship construction. Bill Crothers would always included the rope circumference on his plans which was always most useful. Thanks again for your inputs. Scott
  13. Ed finding a final berth for our art work is always a daunting issue. You mentioned that your Victory is displayed in your home bay window. You probably are aware, but some of your readers may not be, that the suns rays can be very unforgiving to ships regardless of scale. The USS Constitution located in Boston has to be reversed each year so that the ship weathers evenly on all sides taking into consideration both the sea and sun. This is not just beneficial for the paint and planking, but also the mast which has a tendency to bend towards the sun over a length of time. Scott
  14. I once contacted Bill Crothers concerning fairleads asking him why some of his clipper ship plans show theses and some do not. His reply was that his earlier plans had not jelled yet and if he was designing them today he would have included them. He also stated that sometimes the practice was not to use fairleads, but to lash a wood stave across the shrouds. The purpose of either approach was to help lead the lines to their respective belaying points and to prevent rope from draping over the deck when slack and interfering with the crews work. From the photos Ed provided us earlier, YA used fairleads. To share an observation, I used the two photos that Ed provided us of YA. I noticed that on the one taken of the starboard side there was something lashed to the mizzen shrouds. I thought it might be the leads placed higher in the shrouds then the fore and main to account for the higher level of the aft deck. I then realized that in actuality they were the spars of a ship in the back ground whos mast was being hidden by Young Americas mizzen. Ed thanks for the explanation earlier on how lighting can affect the outcome of photos in your shop. This was a reminder to me that one has to be careful in using pictures from the 1800s. Saw a photo once where the author was explaining how colors can be distorted with the use of photography in the past. The example he gave was a ship that he new had the chain plates and lower mast bands painted red. In the photo they being shown as bright white. Scott

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