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  1. For clarification, I built the Scientific Sea Witch kit when I was a kid decades ago. It did not look anything like the attached photo and was smaller. If the manufacturer name is not on the brass plate on the stand then more then likely it is the Marine Models Company kit. Although I have never seen it. Basing the size of the vessel you have pictured with the size of the table it looks like 1/8" in scale. Your uncle may or may have not followed the plans exactly when making it and used his own judgement on how it looked. Other than the hull, mast, and spar dimensions there are no plans of deck arrangement. Any plans existing today are all conjectured. Scott
  2. Marine Models Company, no longer in business, had a 1/8" scale model kit of Sea Witch. From your photos this may have been what was used. There may be a set of plans out there on the web someplace. The only glue I know of that sets quickly would be the Super Glue type. Depending on what glue was used originally, you may have problems with Super Glue setting correctly. The other glue I use is Duco Cement. A few individuals prefer to use a carpenters type glue, but I have had great success using Duco for over 55 years on dry surfaces. I believe there are some threads on the subject of glues on this site. Good luck with this. It may be a lot more challenging to get it back to as close as normal then you realize. Scott
  3. Both are correct depending on the vessel or year. Merchant vessels normally have it secured to the underside of the bowsprit cap with eyelet and hook. Most of the war vessels I have built have the dolphin striker secured to the front of the bowsprit cap or none at all. Even with it hanging loosely the tension on the lines are enough to keep the striker in place. Scott
  4. I may not be the one to comment on this since I am not knowledgeable on this type of vessel, but you may have already answered your question at least partially. "Looks pretty cool, anyway". These ships of this period and earlier where very ornate and stylish. The blocks serve a purpose in adjusting the tension on the lines as needed. Setting them up this way made it look more fancy as were a number of running rigging lines of ships for that time period. Most of which probably could have been step up more simply. Could also be something as simple as "if it ain't broke don't fix it". Meaning that this is how it was done for years and the builders decided to continue with this approach. Without researching this further, and to get the conversation started, that's my best guess. If I am way off I would like to know what the real answer is also. Scott
  5. Good book to add to your library that is reasonably priced. Has photos of leading model makers work including Ed Marple. Scott
  6. Allen there are two sets of plans of the Flying Fish. One by Model Shipways with the yellow box by H.S. Scott developed in the 1950s and the more current set by Ben Lankford used in the Model Expo Kit who bought MS. Both are very good and worth having. Ben Lankford may be using more current information and are more detailed. The one difference between the plans is that Scott shows the mast as either all solid stick or made mast construction without the groves known as chapelling, and Lanford shows the main and fore as made mast that have been chapelled per instructions pg 32. I am not sure if it was a written fact from the time period that the Flying Fish had this feature. Ben Lanford may have been using a reference of how the Flying Cloud was known to have had it done when designing the plans since Donald McKay built both of them. I built three models of this ship over the coarse of my life. Two were using the Model Shipways solid hull kit in the 70s for an individual store proprietor and one by scratch planked semi framed in the 90s. The latter was purchased by a company occupying one of the World Trade Centers building and from what I gather was destroyed in the 9/11 attack. I'm drifting here, so in summary having the plans and instructions are worth getting. Scott
  7. Brooklyn Navy Yard has a detail model of Ohio similar to your later photo. They may be a good source of information on her earlier years. https://www.navyhistory.org/2011/10/uss-ohio-model-at-brooklyn-navy-yard-center-at-building-92/
  8. I believe there was a book published long time ago that incorporated the individual magazines from the 30s into one binder. Could not find it on line and I may be mistaken, but it kind of sounds like these were the magazines. I actually had a copy of the book, but donated it to charity along with other items years ago. Scott
  9. I understood the same thing about shellac, that it had an unlimited shelf life. Did have a small can of orange shellac that was decades old and used it for a small project with good results. Used it again a few years later to find that the can was no longer providing a proper seal. Poured the contains into a glass jar and used it five years later on and still worked fine. Unfortunately a few years again had passed and I tried to use it for one of my ships only to find that it refused to dry after several attempts and would remain tacky. May be not always an unlimited shelf life. Scott
  10. That was very nicely written. Easy to read and follow. I have watched the TV series "Deadliest Catch" showing the crab fishermen on the Bearing Sea. So I was able to visualize what you wrote when talking about your experience with the Storis and the freezing rough weather. If you are serious about building a model of her in the future, I would recommend that you start looking for a set of plans of the ship presently. I have found that as time goes by any hopes of finding decent detailed plans can disappear along with the memory of the ship one is looking for. Thank you for sharing a part of your life and thank your for your service to our country. Scott
  11. I use ZAR Latex Wood Patch. It comes in tubes and in three different colors. Price depends what color you get. It dries pretty quick and is easy to sand. Can paint over it and one can glue sheathing to the hull with no problem. Scott
  12. My understanding is that no actual plans, drawings, description, or pictures exist for the Mary Celest. Any models, photos, or drawings out there are merely conjecture and represent a typical brigantine of the period.
  13. Excellent result. The plans by Erik Ronnberg, Jr. make this a learning experience.
  14. Try this one, www.northeasternscalelumber.com. They have basswood, cherry, and mahogany among other stuff. Have not used them in a long time, but I always received excellent service from them in the past. I only work with bass and purchase that through Model Expo presently that sells in large quantities yielding a lower unit cost. Scott
  15. Depending on the size of the vessel, I prefer the scales between 1/8' and 3/16' since these best suit my work area and works best for a buyer if you are planning to sell. In addition, I am not the best at forging my own metal parts, belaying pins, guns, and anchors, and this allows for a greater selection of finding a suitable part with the kit manufactures. Good question. Scott

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