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stm

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  1. I believe there was a book published long time ago that incorporated the individual magazines from the 30s into one binder. Could not find it on line and I may be mistaken, but it kind of sounds like these were the magazines. I actually had a copy of the book, but donated it to charity along with other items years ago. Scott
  2. I understood the same thing about shellac, that it had an unlimited shelf life. Did have a small can of orange shellac that was decades old and used it for a small project with good results. Used it again a few years later to find that the can was no longer providing a proper seal. Poured the contains into a glass jar and used it five years later on and still worked fine. Unfortunately a few years again had passed and I tried to use it for one of my ships only to find that it refused to dry after several attempts and would remain tacky. May be not always an unlimited shelf life. Scott
  3. That was very nicely written. Easy to read and follow. I have watched the TV series "Deadliest Catch" showing the crab fishermen on the Bearing Sea. So I was able to visualize what you wrote when talking about your experience with the Storis and the freezing rough weather. If you are serious about building a model of her in the future, I would recommend that you start looking for a set of plans of the ship presently. I have found that as time goes by any hopes of finding decent detailed plans can disappear along with the memory of the ship one is looking for. Thank you for sharing a part of your life and thank your for your service to our country. Scott
  4. There was a magazine article written about Mystic selling a Lloyd McCaffery ship model around 1990 approx. It was the 100 gun ship Prince of 1670 and went for $100K, but the gallery spent about $30K marketing it. Was the most spent for a contemporary ship model at that time. Shortly after that I was having a long distance phone conversation with a leading maritime artist who informed me that McCaffery recently sold a miniature whaler also for $100K. He didn't mention the name of the ship or any particulars about the sale. Scott
  5. I use ZAR Latex Wood Patch. It comes in tubes and in three different colors. Price depends what color you get. It dries pretty quick and is easy to sand. Can paint over it and one can glue sheathing to the hull with no problem. Scott
  6. My understanding is that no actual plans, drawings, description, or pictures exist for the Mary Celest. Any models, photos, or drawings out there are merely conjecture and represent a typical brigantine of the period.
  7. Excellent result. The plans by Erik Ronnberg, Jr. make this a learning experience.
  8. Try this one, www.northeasternscalelumber.com. They have basswood, cherry, and mahogany among other stuff. Have not used them in a long time, but I always received excellent service from them in the past. I only work with bass and purchase that through Model Expo presently that sells in large quantities yielding a lower unit cost. Scott
  9. In the attachment supplied by Dziadeczek there is a photo, top picture, on page 41, that shows part of what I was trying to say. At least for the bowsprit. In addition, there is an explanation of the rig calling them bowsprit horses on page 33 that pretty much mirrors my explanation. Keep in mind that the rig on the jib boom being used may have allowed no need for foot ropes. In that the crew did not have to go out that far to work the sails. Meaning that either attaching foot ropes or not may both be correct options. You have to make a choice just as the crew did back then. Scott
  10. I built this same vessel decades ago. The approach I took was to place an eye into the top of each post that are located on each side of the bowsprit near the caprail. Then I inserted two additional eyes in the bowsprit cap, facing aft, near the top of the cap. I tied two lines, one each side, from the eye in the post to the bowsprit cap. Then helped support them by adding one short line each side tied to the fore stay where it meets the top heart then to the lines tied between the two eyelets. The boom foot ropes would have been secured to eyelets on both sides of the bowsprit cap facing forward about midway between the cap ends. More then likely draped ropes, one each side, with knots tied about two feet apart would have been used going forward and tied off to the end of the jib boom near the outer jib stay. This is one solution which is close to actual practice. There are others. Scott
  11. Depending on the size of the vessel, I prefer the scales between 1/8' and 3/16' since these best suit my work area and works best for a buyer if you are planning to sell. In addition, I am not the best at forging my own metal parts, belaying pins, guns, and anchors, and this allows for a greater selection of finding a suitable part with the kit manufactures. Good question. Scott
  12. The success of the Model Shipways kit Rick mentioned above is due in part to the excellent modelmakers guide and plans developed by Erik A.R. Ronnberg, Jr. Parts of which can be seen in various photos contained in this thread. Highly recommended for anyone interested in this subject. Scott
  13. stm

    I would be happy to get them if still available.

    Thank you

     

    Scott Martin

    32 Minton Court

    Red Bank, NJ 07701

    1. ragove

      ragove

      I will put them in the mail shortly.

    2. stm

      stm

      Received them today. Thank you again for the kind offer.

       

      Scott

    3. ragove

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