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Sgt Mike

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  1. Looks like a good book for my 1st time scratch build. I like the 1:48 scale. When will volume 2 be available?
  2. Those tap and die sets look fantastic. Thanks for the info, I will definitely add this to my ship yard machine shop.
  3. AS Maltbyguy above mentioned This last Christmas I built one of my great granddaughters a toy horse barn, using thin plywood with iron on veneer. This was my first experience with this material and I was surprised by it's end result and was thinking if this would work for model ship deck and hull planking. Is there anyone else who has used this technique and can provide some experienced advise?
  4. I Like. The point of annealing the brass is a good point. Thanks for the advise.
  5. I am currently building the MS Benjamin W. Latham fishing schooner. I am at the point of installing the windlass at the bow. I noticed that when set up the ship for underway/working status if I leave the brake handles in the operating status that they would surely be head knockers. If I had been a deck hand on that ship, the second time the brake handle knocked me it would have been in the deep blue. I have been using Chapell's "American Fishing Schooner" book and on line research but have not found out how the hand breaks would have been stowed. Would they have been lashed to the windlass knees, barrel, or bulwarks? Are there any ideas before I throw the hand brakes into the deep blue?
  6. HI, Going over my news blogs today I found some info about great lake ship wrecks (esp. Lake Erie) found. This was published by the Cleveland Underwater Explorers. Their website is http://www.clueshipwrecks.org/index.htm and contains some really neat history of Great lakes ships. I thought Y'all would find this interesting and wanted to pass it along.
  7. I am currently building the MS "Benjamin W Latham" fishing schooner. Sheet 1A of 4 showing the deck layout has a chain box located next to the foremast on the starboard side.
  8. I use my drill press on lowest speed then clamp a wood block to the table with a selection of holes to prevent the free end from wandering. Cut the dowel rod a little longer on both ends to clamp in the chuck. I then used a good digital caliper to keep track of the tapering and various grits of sand paper, slow but methodical.
  9. Living here in central Alabama dogwood is very prevalent and grows wild. What would I need to do to prepare fresh cuts for model ship building besides just drying? I have the good old band saw etc. for cutting.
  10. Hey Elijah, Congratulations on your first build, Looks really good. I like your rigging and paint job. MIke
  11. I have an old Ryobi bench top adjustable belt drive drill press that I use. For the drill press and have found a mini chuck on e-bay that works great in the 1/2 inch chuck for micro-bits. On big advantage is the belts can be set down to 540 RPM (my favorite speed) for precise drilling etc. I can also use it as a sander with a low cost sanding drum set. When you look and think about it a bench top drill press can be very versatile. And really, you don't need to spend an arm and leg for one.
  12. Hi Eddie, I am soon to start on my own MS Fair American Kit. During my research on this site I opened the kit build tag and found an updated table of the rigging which I have attached. I am sorry but I cannot remember who to give credit to for this table but it was from this MSW site forum. I hope this helps. Standing & Running Rigging - Brig Fair American.pdf
  13. try www.woodprojectsource.com they may help.

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