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gjdale

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  1. Looking good Bill. Glad to hear that Callie was able to help you out with the graphics - she is a class act!
  2. Thanks for all the interest and the "likes". Meanwhile, Painting continues… While I was getting ready to paint these parts, I decided to also prep and paint some parts for the next step. The Coal Bin components: And the Smoke Stack components: And here are all these parts after painting: Here is a shot of the Smoke Stack components temporarily joined together to show the impact of the different colours together: At this stage, the Coal Bin parts are assembled, including the wooden step and its support brackets, the grab bars and the coal bin braces. The grab bars and braces, as well as the step support brackets are all attached using 00-90 nuts and bolts, which proved to be quite tricky. Fortunately, my experience building my Pocher car model recently meant that I had both some experience with this type of fastening, and also some tools to make the job a little easier. Here’s a close-up of the inside of the fastenings. Getting access to these became progressively more difficult as each part was added. With that step complete, the Coal Bin is set aside for later and preparation and painting of the next batch of parts continues, this time focusing on the Copper elements including the Expansion Tanks (large and small), the Headlight, the Hand Lamps, and some water return pipes, all shown here prior to any preparation. Also in this batch will be some “leather” components – the Seat, the Whip, and some hose retaining straps – as well as a couple more components to be painted black, including the Coal Door, the Spark Arrestor (brass photo etch) and the Boiler Shield (engraved). I’ll be back with the painted parts in a few days…..
  3. Plus one for the Festool. I have one and use it for my larger hand held tools in the big workshop. It’s very quite but also very efficient. They also have a “cyclone” option, which I have, and that reduces the frequency of bag changes. Expensive, but worth it in my opinion.
  4. Jacek, You might have misunderstood my sense of humour. I was making the point that paint spill or not, the end result looks very good.
  5. You are absolutely correct Wefalck, but to do so would mean scratch building about 90% of the model. The soft Britannia metal is proving quite challenging. The casting imperfections are annoying in some places and limiting in others. For example, all of the threaded parts are cast but if these are imperfect, it’s not possible to re-cut them with a die because the Britannia metal is so soft that any torque applied will snap the part (don’t ask me how I know this!). These threads are supposed to take a 00-90 nut, so they are very small to start with. Also, one of the axles was cast considerably oversize and it took a long time and a lot of patience to carefully sand this down so that the wheel hubs (which are in fact accurately machined metal) will fit. While I’m confident that this will still build into a nice model, I’m not a fan of this material.
  6. Thanks for the words of encouragement and for all the "likes". Assembly begins… Painting of these initial assembly parts is finally complete. Here are all of the polished brass parts: And here are the rest – red, black and multi-coloured parts: Most of these parts were then assembled to the Mainframe, beginning with the lower Steam Box, then the Flywheels and crankshaft, crankshaft support, slide assemblies, pushrods, and Steam Box Manifold. Then it was the Lower half of the Water Box, followed by the Upper half of the water box, the Steam Box cover and the various components of the Manifold assembly. I didn’t take any in-progress shots, but here are a few of the assembly to date, starting with an overview of the complete assembly: Here is a close up of the front end showing the water box top and the hose inlet: And the centre section – flywheels and pushrods: And the rear section showing the manifold detail: Here’s a view of the front section from the other side: And another view of the rear section: And finally, a view of the underside: Attention now turns to the Axle assemblies. Here are the parts laid out for the Front Axle assembly, ready for cleaning up, test fitting and painting: And the same for the Rear Axle: I’ll be back once these are painted and ready to go…
  7. A Minor Setback… In painting these parts, there are a few components that are called out as “unpainted - polished metal”. Okay, no problem…. The parts circled in the photo below are the Crankshaft Sleeves – they secure the Flywheel crankshaft to the Mainframe. These are some of those “polished metal” parts. I thought the easiest way to polish these would be to mount them on a mandrel and then chuck the mandrel in my rotary tool for quick and easy polishing. I found an appropriate piece of brass rod in my stash to use as a mandrel and secured them using a touch of CA glue, figuring I’ll just de-bond them from the mandrel after polishing using Acetone. Great theory. After polishing them, I gave them a good soak in Acetone and then tried to separate them from the mandrel – no dice. Then I remembered that when I was building the steering wheel from my Chris Craft runabout, I had done this numerous times by heating the brass parts to de-bond the CA. Great, I thought, I’ll do that……forgetting that I was working with Britannia metal and not just brass. Here is the result of that ill-fated decision: After calling myself all sorts of names that amounted to: “you fool!”, I had no choice but to make these parts from scratch. Fortunately, I had a piece of ¼” Aluminium rod in my stash that was exactly the right diameter for the outer ends. I was able to take some measurements off the drawings and after about an hour at the lathe I was able to come up with these replacements: Of course, I polished these while they were still on the lathe… Painting has been progressing well, albeit slowly. It seems to take longer to do the masking up than the actual painting as some of the pieces require two or more colour combinations. More pics once painting is complete.
  8. Nice to see you back at this lovely model Bob. I look forward to seeing you finish her.
  9. Seat Structure and Flywheel Assemblies The next step is to prepare and paint a number of parts for the Seat Structure and the Flywheel Assemblies. I also read ahead and opted to prepare a few parts from the next step as these will be needed for the next assembly stage. I spent a fair amount of time today prepping these parts – cleaning flash, test fitting, re-boring some holes, and finally scrubbing with a toothbrush and soapy water. They are now ready for painting. No fancy photos today – we’ll save that until they’ve been painted.
  10. Distractions I have been a little distracted over the last week. My wife decided to re-organise the pantry and in helping her to do that, I suggested that the addition of some “stadium seating” would assist in being able to see/find things at the back of the cupboard, and hence keep it all more organised. I knocked up a quick prototype and was quickly instructed to get on and make a “proper” version. It doesn’t look like much, and indeed is little more than a series of boxes. But while the prototypes were simply pin-nailed together, these are all properly joined with finger/box joints and the front/back panels are all housed in rabbets. And then of course, they had to be painted. Making these gave me the perfect opportunity to test out my recently completed home made edge-sander. I have to say, it works a treat! Once that was completed, I decided to try to up my game in the photography department. I have acquired a new backdrop and dug out some lighting that I had bought some years ago but not used much. Here’s some samples of some testing using the main frame as the test mule. I had to prop it up at an angle to try to get the best view. The blue background, combined with some better lighting, certainly seems to make a difference. So now at last, the build proper begins. And it starts by adding some of those small parts to the Lower Steam Box and the Upper Water Box. You can see that a decal has been added as a gauge face on the Upper Water Box. These are now set aside for later use while more parts are identified, cleaned up, dry fit and painted. Stay tuned…
  11. Bob, While I do make a variety of boxes, I tend to use my full size equipment for these: Tablesaw, Bandsaw and Router Table, as well as hand tools and jigs (eg shooting boards). For mitred joints, I would cut them initially on the table saw using either the tilting arbor or an Incra sled/mitre gauge (depending on the type of mitre) and then fine tune them with a hand plane and shooting board. I don't think I'd bother trying to use the tilting table on the Byrnes saw for this job. If I didn't have the full size table saw, then I'd probably cut the mitre with a hand saw and then plane on the shooting board. There is really no substitute for a plane/shooting board for getting really accurate, tight mitres. Incidentally, do you know why they are called Mitre joints? It's because every time you make one, you say to yourself - I mighta done that better! 🤣 If I were buying a Byrnes saw today, I'd include the larger table top, the Siding Table, the Extended Rip Fence, the Mitre Gauge adjustable extension, a Micrometer stop (I actually bought both Standard and Metric, but I think one would be sufficient), some spare Zero-Clearance inserts (several), the Accessory pack (you're going to lose at least one of those little screws!) and a selection of blades. I have the Rip Taper Gage but it's pretty easy to make your own one of these and I can't say that I've used mine much, if at all. I have the Auxiliary Tilting Table but have not found much use for it - it's not really the same as having a tilting arbor though others have managed to make it do the work. I went pretty much all out with my initial purchase because of the cost of shipping to Australia (it added 50% to the cost and that was back when the Australian dollar was around parity with the Greenback). My logic was "buy once, cry once". And I can definitely say that, as with all purchases of quality products, quality is remembered long after price is forgotten! These are just my thoughts/choices - others may have different ideas. Whatever you decide, you will not be disappointed with the Byrnes saw.
  12. Bob, Although I don’t have the larger table myself, I believe that one of its main advantages is that it provides sufficient space that you don’t need to remove the rip fence when using the sliding crosscut table (it can just be moved to the side, without having to dismount it). That feature in itself would be a big attraction for me if I were purchasing today. Unfortunately for me, to fit the bigger table would mean shipping the whole saw back to Jim and then back again, and that would be cost prohibitive from this part of the world.
  13. Glad to see your painting repairs worked out. That’s fascinating about the swastika decals!
  14. Given that you got the ship in AND successfully raised the masts, I’d say the score is now Man 2 - Model 1. 👍 Well done Glen!
  15. Sorry to hear of the mishap with the masking. One trick you might try “next time” is to paint a clear coat along the edge of the masking prior to your colour. That will prevent the bleeding/wicking of the colour and any bleed will be the clear coat.
  16. This should be an interesting project Jeff. I’ve grabbed a front row seat.
  17. I’ll be interested to see your take on this model Mark, so I’ll come along for the ride. Plus, someone might have mentioned you have a well-stocked bar in the corner……
  18. Looking good Mark - I hope it's not too long before we see more of this one. I'm sure you'll enjoy the break while you do the Sphinx.
  19. Thanks Paul and Craig. Craig - after much experimenting I found that the trick with the Stynylrez was to use a 0.5mm needle, with air pressure at 25-30psi and paint flow reduced to a bare minimum. Then, as Kurt and others have suggested, spraying multiple light coats (in the one session). It seems that this combination of the three factors (needle size, air pressure and paint flow) are needed to get a nice smooth application without blocking up the airbrush. It took me a while, but I'm pretty confident with it now and it really does produce a nice even, smooth and durable finish that can actually be sanded if you so desire (unlike some other acrylic primers that shall remain nameless!). For cleaning the airbrush, although you can use water, IPA and/or acrylic airbrush cleaner, I've found the quickest and most effective is to use some lacquer thinner (generic from the hardware store). Of course, you need to take the appropriate precautions with this, but if you're spraying lacquer paints as I am anyway, then you've already got these precautions in place.
  20. I mangled to catch up with the recordings of both this and Kurt's photography workshop over the last few days. Well done and thank you Kurt and Toni for sharing your knowledge and experience.
  21. Great to hear that your Bluenose is once again underway. Looking good.
  22. Well, the mail system has finally caught up and I at last have some progress to report... Paint Trials – Completed The paint trials turned into something of an ordeal. Much research, watching YouTube videos, and a PM conversation with Kurt Van Dahm while waiting on several deliveries of paint and assorted supplies, including a new airbrush… I was keen to try using the Stynylrez in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions – that is, by using a minimum of a 0.5mm needle. What better excuse to buy a new airbrush? After some research, I settled on the Procon Boy PS290 from the Mr Hobby range. It has a ‘gun’ style trigger, and I also bought the aftermarket handle that makes it more comfortable to hold. I’ve read (though I can’t verify) that these airbrushes are made in the same factory as the Iwatas, at a significantly lower end cost. I have to say, I’ve been very pleased with it. Another thing I learned watching YouTube was the value of using plastic spoons as test mules for paint. They have a decent area to show the colour, without being so large as to waste paint, and they have a ready-made handle to hole while painting. The challenge was sourcing them! Not so long ago, these would have been in abundant supply in local supermarkets but not anymore as they have all gone with eco-friendly bamboo etc. I did manage to find some online, quite inexpensively, but the minimum order was 144 (although that was made of three packs of 48 spoons – go figure!). I used quite a bit of my Zero red paint and was unable to obtain any more – the one Australian importer has been out of stock of a lot of the Zero paints for some time now. I was concerned that I would run out of this colour before finishing the model, so I needed to find an alternative in ready supply. That led me to discovering the SMS range of paints. These are actually an Australian brand, developed by a modeller for modellers. I bought a bottle of their Premium Red, and it looks to be the perfect shade – happy days! I also discovered that MIG/AMMO paints manufacture Alclad paints under licence from Alclad and I was able to obtain some “Polished Brass” under this brand name. I was very keen to obtain some Stynylrez in the colours of Dull Pink and Pale Mustard (actually a yellow). I was unable to source the Pink individually (out of stock everywhere) but did manage to find it in a mixed dozen small bottles – an expensive way to obtain it, but it also gave me a few other options for down the track as well as extra white, black, and grey. I did manage to find a solo bottle of the Pale Mustard from yet another supplier, so eventually was able to continue the paint trials. So now the paint trials continued in earnest. This included perfecting my technique for laying down the primer – my thanks to Kurt for his advice via PM exchanges here. I must have used about half of my stash of 144 spoons during these trials, trying to find the right combination of primer and colour coat. The picture below shows some of the final results. The top row is some of the primers. From left to right: Stynylrez Dull Pink, Pale Mustard, Oceanic Blue (I just wanted to see what this one looked like for a future model), and Alclad Gloss Black base. I tried the Stynylrez Gloss Black but didn’t like it as much as the Alclad. The bottom row are my final colour choices for this model. From left to right SMS Premium Red over Stynylrez Dull Pink, SMS Gun Metal over Alclad Gloss Black, Alclad/Ammo Polished Brass over Alclad Gloss Black, and Alclad Copper over Alclad Gloss Black. All the metal colours have been clear coated with Alclad Aqua Gloss in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The Red has been given a coat of Alclad Clear Kote Light Sheen (I was after a satin finish for this). It was the better part of a month’s work – trial, re-order, trial, etc to arrive at this point. And here are the actual parts for the Mainframe painted in their final livery. The biggest challenge here was masking the mainframe itself to separate the red and brass colours. A little patience and a lot of Tamiya tape and it all went well. Photographing the painted parts was also a challenge and I'm afraid this picture doesn't really do them justice. I've watched Kurt's presentation from his workshop recently and I think I need to do some more experimenting with photography! Hopefully, the build will progress a little more quickly from here!
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