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    Ottawa, Canada
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    Cycling, Nordic Skiing, Back Country Canoe Camping, Pets, Ships

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  1. Thank you Miki for the pictures of the other model Preussen. Looks nice! I'm not looking forward to tying all the clove hitches for ratlines on five masts! Do you think the lower mast stays shown are accurate, with both sides running separately as opposed to being seized together at each end (more like the topmast stays)? I see this modeller installed chain futtocks whereas I depict solid bar. Wonder what they really were? Wonder how this modeller ultimately routed the lower braces to the winches? Speaking of which, look at the detail on those brace winches!
  2. Welcome Miki to my large group of followers! 🙂 😉 And thanks for pointing out the differences between Pamir and Passat; interesting! Nice to have a flying-P expert at hand! I'd love to visit one of these museum ships someday, perhaps in a trip also including the Wasa. I know Viking is now a hotel in Gothenburg, and Moshulu is now a (shudder) restaurant in Philly. Have you read "The Last Grain Race" which is a first-hand account of Moshulu's participation in the 1939 grain race from Australia to UK? Very good read!
  3. Things are looking up! Marten has very kindly replied to my P.M. with the information that those little rails on deck were for the sailors to brace their feet instead of sliding into the scuppers when hauling ropes, and that the brace winches were definitely in front of the masts. No ropes are looped under the rails, that is a Heller-ism. Thank you Marten! So I will rig the braces according to Underhill, with the exception that lead blocks will have to be under the mast top in order to pass down to the brace winches in front of mast without interfering with course or its yard or
  4. Speaking of those great photos, now that I am nearing completion of deck furniture and thinking ahead to prepare for rigging, I've suddenly noticed that the Jarvis brace winches on this model are placed in front of each mast, which is contrary to Underhill's brace routing diagram ("Masting and Rigging: Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier". Note: the mizzen has a brace winch both in front and behind, to handle braces for the main and jigger. The "Passat" photos, and another I found of "Pommern", clearly show the brace winches abaft the masts, in agreement with Underhill. In
  5. Still don't know definitively about those rails in front of the pin rails. However, I did come across some nice pictures of Passat's rigging. She does not seem to have the rails. Was also interested to see the shot of the bows, showing the figurehead mostly white with Ferdinand Laeisz's initials in red. Heller instructs to just paint it gold. I may redo it but it would have been easier off the hull. Pictures of bowsprit guys are also helpful since Heller's "instructions" about them are a bit confusing Interesting to see such things as copper domes on navigation light ho
  6. Another little update. I keep thinking of things I could do instead of attempting to solder some brass trusses. Talk about procrastination. I decided to use the same micro brass tubing and etched eyelets to form the futtocks and linkages for the topmast shrouds. The lower ends of the three futtocks have the same etched brass eyes, through which passes the copper eyebolt cemented into a hole drilled in the mast. I should have decided how to do these earlier; it would have been easier before gluing the copper eyes and/or the mast tops in place, but it worked out because this very sma
  7. For anyone still reading, Heller provides these low metal rails along the deck in front of the pin rail sections where the shrouds and backstays exist, rather like the foot rail on a bar, or so I've heard. According to them ropes come from aloft and pass under these rails then up to their belaying pins. Is this accurate i.e. did these rails exist? I would think it would be hard to belay ropes on the pins with a wall of them going down to the deck just in front. I'll have a look through what books I have on windjammer rigging but if anyone knows definitively that would be great! Th
  8. Bill, I just used 0.6mm O.D. micro brass tube, available from Albion Alloys (MBT06). It comes in sets of three ~12" lengths in plastic tubes. Easily cut with an exacto knife. The etched brass eyelets are glued in to the ends. Available from various model suppliers, for example: https://www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/Caldercraft_Period_Eyepins.html These eyes are immensely useful, for example I cut all those nubbies off the bowsprit and replaced with some of these eyes glued into drilled holes. I also used many to form the mast stay attachment po
  9. A quick update - I finished the 146 renditions of rigging screws for shrouds and backstays. This photo shows what they look like, passing down to the deck inside the bulwarks. A big improvement, I think, on Heller's suggested small loops of thread passed through the pinrail holes with knots trapped underneath. I'm getting close to some serious rigging. Just need to form brass yard trusses somehow and oh,... figure out what thread to use. I have three sizes of chain too with probable need to order more of whichever I choose. Probably the 42 link/inch at this scale.
  10. Bill, I already did but no reply yet. Maybe they're in a Covid shutdown. Maybe they just whisked a part into the mail without bothering to reply. I don't know. My French isn't up to phoning them. Since it is the stern railing, and accessible at any time, I suppose I can wait.
  11. It's taking less time than I thought to produce my "shroud turnbuckles". Tedious though. Cut 146 short lengths of 0.6mm OD brass tube and glued an etched brass eyelet into one end of each. There are two lengths - the shorter for the bridge and poop decks where they attach right to deck level, the longer for those which pass through a well deck pin rail and thence to deck. Photo below after most of the shorter ones are glued in. For the poop deck I added small strips of white-painted evergreen over Heller's original holes in the deck, because the tubing is undersized for the h
  12. Bill, that's a great idea! I will try to contact them about it although I only know the part number in the Preussen kit. I was thinking of asking my brother if he could 3-D print one for me; not sure of the capabilities of his printer, resolution-wise. I was also going to ask him about making me some "iron" sheet blocks......... Thanks again for your help! Looking forward to your "Potosi" log..... Best Regards, Ian
  13. Bill, thanks for your kind words and encouragement. I remember reading a thread, probably somewhere in model ship world, where the author advocated buying a "Cap Horn" (less popular and apparently much cheaper than Preussen on ebay or whatever) and simply converting the jigger mast to square rig and hey presto! - a Preussen. I was aware of Potosi but I thought it was the only 5M barque ever in the grain/nitrate fleets. Apparently as a barque much more manageable than Preussen. Since you have Cap Horn, perhaps you can help me on something. The photo below shows an auxil
  14. Let's see, where was I?.......I have the bulwark pin rails attached and painted in the well decks. Here is the model with the lower parts of all five masts dropped in. I spent some time making notes about all the attachment points for mast stays...again....and I need to add yet more eyes for them at the lower and topmast caps. I dry attached the main topgallant mast to check the angles of some of the stays using a brass tube. I plan to cut these brass tubes into short lengths and glue in an etched eyelet to form rudimentary "turnbuckles", if rather one-ended. They'll pass through the pin rails
  15. I admit it's a while since I posted, but the Canadian summer is too short also people finally became comfortable with having me in their home to renovate as long as I wear a mask. When not working, the cottage beckons: swimming, sailing my dinghy, biking, canoeing, wine, rye and ginger......... I have made some progress and I did get the new camera battery. More coming soon........
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