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About George-JK

  • Birthday 04/26/1995

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    Villach, Austria

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  1. Hello All, I must apologize for my silence in the last couple of weeks, because of the Christmas stuff and work I did't really move forward in the build. The only thing I did still in the November, I sailed the boat here on a lake before it froze. So I will post a couple of pictures from the trials and in the end describe some plans for the future. For the conclusion of the trials, the boat is quite stable even in mild waves. The installed engines and propellers are powerful enough to get the hull info planing mode of sail, which is really unrealistic, but I needed to test the throttle response. I also wanted to check the water tightness in real life, but since I managed to flood the stern deck from the not so slow decrease in throttle, which resulted in a wave running over the stern and breaking on the opened bulkhead where the tow lines are exiting the hull (no idea if it has some special name..). This resulted in almost 0.5L of water in the hull, so instead of hull water tightness I tested the electronics resistance to flooding, also important test, but completely unnecessary one. In regards to the latest displacement, it is 11kg and the hull still sits quite high above the water, it is still almost 10mm to the painted waterline. In the end I was quite satisfied with the overal behavior of the ship, I learned that it will be necessary to add a seal on aforementioned bulkhead, to minimize the chance of flooding the batteries again, as well as to protect the planned light control unit which is meant to be situated right there. Regarding future post, I am not sure if I will post until after the holidays. So I ask for prolonged patience with following updates. Cheers George
  2. Hello All, A small update, on the buil, today w/o pictures, I apologie for that. Yesterday I did an electrical testing the the systems, I found a slight problem with the main engines. First they start to vibrate at relatively low RPM, this will require some bracing of the shafts near the engine mounts. this was an expected, but still unwanted event, a piece of balsa wood and glue per shaft will do the trick. And the second problem, which is quite interesting is that during the initial testing the two engines didn't start to run on the same throttle position, however this problem disappeared after more testing. I suspect a combination of the ECS settings and different "resistance to turn" of the two shafts, I will try to improve this by programming the ESCs. And last problem that was discovered was, that I probably siliconed the stern thruster too well so to speak, meaning I blocked the paddle from turning. For this was an easy fix, since the silicone doesn't bond strongly to either piece the disassembly was easy, I returned to the supplied O-ring and generous amount of grease, the same one as I use in the main shafts. Today I hope to do a new bath tub test of the water tightness and if the weather allows on Saturday go to Italy to do a sail on one of the Alpine lake here. @Seamanpeter I am also planning to put the DIY LED lighting control unit on top of the battery-pack, however first I have to build it, that will be a challenge. Cheers George
  3. Hello All, A small update today. I finished the repairs on the deadwood? (I think this is the correct term for this part of the stern. I used again Tamiya primer, and afterwards some accenting with red and black and finally the Dull red as the antifouling paint. First I wet sanded the transition between the new primer area and the already painted area. Accenting using the red and black paint. Final overlay of the dull red paint. I find this colour to be quite tricky to apply as when it is fresh airbrushed it is almost translucent. As it dries it becomes more and more opaque. So it is quite difficult to get the layer thickness correctly on complicated shapes with lots of shadows as is the case with this deadwood?. I mounted the stern thuster motor using generous amount of high temp silicone, as I experienced a leak from the original O-ring. This should solve that problem and keep some level of serviceability to the thruster. And finally for today post pictures of the interior of the hull with installed RC equipment. With this equipment the weight is at 6.4kg including the two battery packs needed for the 12V and 7.2V parts. Cheers George
  4. Hello Peter, For now I suspended further works, as when I get from work it is already dark outside, so not the optimal weather for painting with rattle cans, I will do some progress on the weekend. I have yet to make all the details on the superstructure, I went on the details the same way as with plastic models, first I paint and prepare the details off the model, and I add them as I go with the complete build. Which works with plastic models, with this, I am not sure, but we will see.... Regarding the kim keel, I originally wanted to build it in, but later I forgot, or rather decided not to build it in, as I didn't to make the build more complicated then necessary at that time... I will therefore have to be smart as to how I distribute the ballast, as physics should be able to compensate for the missing keel a bit. And it should be possible to calculate in a first approximation. Cheers Geroge
  5. Hello All, Today as well only a short update on the build. During the weekend I primed extensive amounts of detail parts, as well as the rails for the hull. however due to running out of Matt White paint, I suspended further works on these parts. I finished with the stern thruster mounting during the weekend, wen the rain let out a bit. I didn't proceed with the painting of the stern section, because there were a couple of air bubbles in the epoxy filling, that needed to be plugged. This led to one day technological wait, for the epoxy to cure. before painting ca start. Ready for some sanding on painted hull, and sanded using 60 and 120 grit. Finished sanding using 60 and 120 grit, this gave surprisingly smooth surface. And last picture, filled bubbles are taped over, so the epoxy doesn't flow out when the hull is flipped to fill the imperfections on the other side. Cheers George
  6. Hello All, today I will do only a short post before the weekend. Just a closer look on the hand rail soldering, I will let the images do the talking. Cheers George
  7. Hey Peter, This flooding was only a freak incident, and shouldn't happen on normal sailing occasion, as the hose will normally be connected to the water pump for the fire monitors. Either way, there will be more water tightness tests following further down the road. Now I found out that only 8kg of lead in the hull are not nearly enough to get it to the desired draft, it wanted at least 5kg more. Also personally I have never seen a model with an actual bilge pump, I think it is quite an over kill. Since we expect some occasional small leaks around the shafts of different propulsion parts, these leaks shouldn't be more than a couple of drops per minute. Any more severe leaks that theoretically could happen should then be from running aground on rocks in high speed, which happens mostly close to shore... But nevertheless I am interested in where you plan to mount the bilge pump, and also regarding the fact, that the hull is sectioned with the bulkheads, which are, as I learned yesterday quite watertight, as the flooding I experienced was only in single hull section, confined by the bulkheads. Also my hull is actually laminated from the outside and smeared with epoxy on the inside, it already survived one "crash test" falling into an empty bathtub, which resulted in some dents in the bathtub, not the hull. Here are some pictures of the process, as i wore gloves, completely covered in the epoxy, I did take only a few pictures, to keep the phone clean. And don't worry I will slow down the build around this weekend, as I am getting to painting of details, and it is almost freezing outside. And the other things, like the coffee corner, and the lighting needs some time. Regarding the coffee corner, it is a good idea to add it in, only I have no idea how it should look like, and where it should be placed. I don't drink coffee du to blood pressure skyrocketing, only tea. Still if you could mark it on one of the pictures, where would be an optimal position for such a thing, and a picture of how it should look like. Also I plan to make some chairs, to add around the tables on the bridge. Regarding the monkey deck, I plan on gluing it on, as either way it would be almost impossible to take it off once all the cables and hoses are in place. Since the LEDs should not burn out as normal lights (that is the theory, usually holds, until one applies higher voltage) there is no real need to access the bridge. Cheers George
  8. Hello All, So yesterday was a water leak test in the bath tub. This ended relatively well, I almost drowned the model. I didn't observe any leaks through the glue joints, just some minor leak through the stern thruster seal, this will be solved by changing the supplied rubber O-ring for a silicone sealant bead, once I will finish with the sanding of the excess glue. The major leak however happened from water pump inlet, where I put on the inlet hose, but then proceed to put a bag of lead pellets on top of it, so the entire hose ended below the water line, and trouble was born. Now I wait until the hull interior is dried. In the mean time I will most likely work on the details and the superstructure. After the test I went and glued together the first two parts of the superstructure, after I tested all the mounted LEDs, if they work. And lastly pictures of the controversial green sided ladders: I personally think it looks pery good with the green sides, as they are only on the outside, it makes the ladders blend in a bit. Cheers George
  9. Hey Peter, As you say, to me it looked a bit strange, that the top ladders are painted orange and the bottom ones should stay white, or even orange. It just din't fit to my impression of the model. And since the collour scheme of the model is already looking like a tropical bird, why not add a little extra touch of green to it... Yeah the water tightness test is scheduled for today so we will see... Cheers George
  10. Hello All, @Seamanpeter thank you for the description of the ladder problem, I was not sure if they should be the same distance, or if the distance is somehow dependent on something. I will do them with the same distance as the ladders included in the kit have. Yes it is the same phone casing 😄 well the phone is still good... So yesterday I finished gluing the stern thruster and started gluing in the bow thruster. In the stern thruster glue, there are some voids left, these will be filled after the initial sanding of the excess material, as some of then will hopefully vanish. The gluing of the bow thruster consisted of mixing the 90min epoxy with the air balloon filler, until it had a non dripping viscosity. Then I just smeared the glue on the ends of the original bow thruster channels and on the thruster body itself and assembled. The rest was then checking if there are any holes, and filling them up. The first picture shows the hull section with applied glue. The second picture shows the inserted new thruster body, with filled top parts of the joints. A different look on the new thruster installed, and checking for glue thickness/ voids. For this I used a phone flashlight (any strong lightsource can be used) shone through the channel entrances, and by the varying intensities of the scattered light visible in the glue joints, one can tell quite accurately the relative thicknesses of the glue joint sections. As I was waiting for the glue to cure I went and finished painting of the 4 ladders used on the hull. I went and painted the sides green, I wasn't certain what collour they were suposed to be, but as the ladders of the superstructure have orange sides, I though that these should follow the trend and have the sides painted green. Cheers George
  11. Hey Peter, Thank you for the insight on how it actually is on a real vessel. Honestly sometimes I tend to over-complicate the things I am trying to say. I should have written: That after searching the internet for a suitable replacement made of brass, most important factor, I found these rail stanchions from Graupner, which are 2mm higher, that the original ones, but these 2mm are, at least to me, lost in the overall model size. And one additional advantage of these stanchions is, they have the two different hole sizes bored in, which as I seen on the pictures of real this boat, and from my travels with ferries, to be the case. The top rail is bigger, than the lower ones... Regarding why I don't use the 3D printer for this. Firstly the end product, being so thin would be very fragile, and it simply would look bad. And secondly, I quite enjoy the soldering of the rails, and they are in the end quite bendy- sturdy so to speak. And lastly, I would like to use your experience, to ask you a question regarding this one ladder: I would like to know, what would you suggest for the spacing between the individual steps, and also what should be the optimal spacing of the first step of the deck? Thank you Cheers George
  12. Hello All, today I will start with a short up to speed post and finish up with by showing You the fully glued stern thruster body. As I said in a previous post, I am soldering all of the handrails and other metal components, as the masts. The biggest problem with the soldering was, that the kit supplied rail stanchions were made of aluminium. Which is possible to solder, however, even after I acquired the proper flux, it was difficult to get satisfactory results. The cornwallmodelboats.co.uk shop shows them as brass, but in the description is, that they are made of aluminium. Also the height of these is only 12mm, which in the scale of the model, 1:75, gives the height of 900mm, or 90cm, which for a ship safety feature preventing falling overboard seems to me, to be just a bit low. Also the three holes on there stanchions were all 0.8mm bore, which is again too big for two reasons. Firstly, the rail wire supplied is only 0.5mm, and second, the 0.8mm diameter gives in scale a diameter of 60mm, which is good for the topmost "grabbing" rail, but is too bulky for the two lower rails, here the 0.5mm wire just looks better. For these reasons I looked for an appropriate replacement. I found the three holed stanchion from Graupner. These have the same shape, however are 14mm high and the holes are 0.8mm top, rest is 0.5mm. The new height is in scale just over 1 meter, which seems to me to be a bit better, also regarding the model, the new height is also quite fitting. Here is a sketch of both stanchions, and a picture of the new one used: Also these stanchions are made out of brass and come oxidation-free. So they are a treat to solder, but for uniform performance of the solder joints I use the Carr's Green Label solder flux for use on brass, copper, nickel and silver. I also went and bought in our local arts and craft shop a reel of copper wire with 0.8mm diameter, as the 0.5mm dia. wire was already supplied in the kit. So in the end the grabbing rail is made of the 0.8mm wire, and the lower rails are made of the 0.5mm wire. Some images of the produced handrails. The fire-monitor deck hand rail, just soldered, I use a piece of low quality masking tape to transfer the positions of the holes to a block of wood, there I solder the handrail. And fitting the rail to the coresponding piece. The rails are then primed using Tamyia metal primer in two light coats, followed by Tamiya surface primer. And later they are painted with airbrush (not at that stage on any of the handrails yet). A picture of other, already primed handrail: the last pictures show one of the 4 ladders mounted on the hull, they are now painted white and are waiting to get green sides painted, then they will be done. Now for the progress on the repairs: Form the weekend pouring, there are still holes to be covered. For this I needed to buy a new package of epoxy glue as I feared the old one was going bad. I used the UHU 90min epoxy with micro air balloons to thicken the glue, to almost non dripping state. I plugged the holes with a piece of masking tape and shoveled the epoxy in using the spatula. until it completely surrounded the installed thruster body. And last for today's post, I started installing first ballast weights in the stern with the excess epoxy I had made. Cheers George
  13. Hey Peter, Yes I was considering the 24mm thruster, but then instead went with the smaller one, the 22mm one. As this diameter does not have the coned channels. This can be seen on this picture: Has straight channels running out of it. This I can use to my advantage, as the inner diameter of the build in channels should be also 22mm, or very close to it, this should allow me to theoretically just slide the new unit in place. The only problem now is a 1mm gap that is there after I sawed out the old unit. I wanted to change it with as little work on the exterior as possible, as I don't want to repaint the hull for the 3rd time already. Also I can see you made it quite bullet proof, so to speak, I don't think the forces from the bow thruster will be so great as to need excessive reinforcement in place. So I plan to add I bit of, probably balsa wood to create a bigger surface for the thruster to be glued on, but I will see, maybe I will do a quick test of the thruster in a sink, to see how powerful it actually is... Cheers George
  14. Good day to all, Today I will do an update of the build, regarding my progress during this weekend. I forgot to take some necessary pictures for the getting up to speed with the build post, so that will follow tomorrow. As I wrote on Saturday I got the new thrusters in. I went with the Raboesch 22mm OD thruster for the bow, and the mini thruster for the stern. I then spent the rest of the weekend getting rid of the old system in the stern. In the end I managed to peel off the top part of the Alu tube, and subsequently I sanded out the keel to accommodate for the new thruster body. Let the pictures speak for themselves: Operation in progress. First fitment picture to the left. Picture to the right, finished alu tube removal. I went and took a metal saw to it, I sawed the tube in "halves", and pried the top hlaf out. Top view of the prepared hole, I scratched the paint of the Alu a bit to improve the adhestion. On the right picture, preparation fo the initial epoxy pour, making a dam out of tape. Checking the placement of the thruster body, looking for squareness to the hull exterior, and first pour of epoxy (the yellow hint in the bottom right conrer of the hole. After the curing of the epoxy, some over flow is visible, this also covered parts of the masking tape, this however should not pose a big problem, as the parts with the tape are protruding outside the hull overall shape and will be sanded off. The later picture shows the thruster after I cut off the excess pipe. And the last picture shows how the stern thruster looks right now. I didn't finish the epoxy pouring, as I run into issues with the used epoxy, it took too long to cure and even after 2 hours still had rubber surface. I blame it on the age of the epoxy, as it is well over 2 years old... I will check today in the evening, hopefully it cured entirely. But nonetheless I will go and buy a new can of epoxy to finish up the filling. For the bow thruster I used a chisel to remove a part of the keel right behind the thruster position, this created enough space for the new thruster body. I removed the old body by sticking a hex key into the shaft hole and prying it out, which was an easy task. The initial state of the bow thruster, after the sawing of the alu tube, covered in a previous post, In the process of chiseling of the excess keel. Finished with the chisel. The hull after prying out the non used part of the old thruster system, and the pried part. Dry fitting of the new thruster body. Cheers George
  15. Hey Peter, oh thank you. Yeah I can imagine, how difficult your build will get with those modifications. But it will be that much more interesting to see how you will tackle those challenges. And some mild progress on my build: I increased the amount of collour dots and blobs on the control panels: And some teaser of what is to come in the following posts, the thrusters cane this morning. So I am working on the holes in the hull.. why I hate working around painted model: Paint scratches and chips, due to tool handling.. I will be repairing the chips after everything is done.

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