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About George-JK

  • Birthday 04/26/1995

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    Villach, Austria

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  1. Hey Peter, This flooding was only a freak incident, and shouldn't happen on normal sailing occasion, as the hose will normally be connected to the water pump for the fire monitors. Either way, there will be more water tightness tests following further down the road. Now I found out that only 8kg of lead in the hull are not nearly enough to get it to the desired draft, it wanted at least 5kg more. Also personally I have never seen a model with an actual bilge pump, I think it is quite an over kill. Since we expect some occasional small leaks around the shafts of different propulsion parts, these leaks shouldn't be more than a couple of drops per minute. Any more severe leaks that theoretically could happen should then be from running aground on rocks in high speed, which happens mostly close to shore... But nevertheless I am interested in where you plan to mount the bilge pump, and also regarding the fact, that the hull is sectioned with the bulkheads, which are, as I learned yesterday quite watertight, as the flooding I experienced was only in single hull section, confined by the bulkheads. Also my hull is actually laminated from the outside and smeared with epoxy on the inside, it already survived one "crash test" falling into an empty bathtub, which resulted in some dents in the bathtub, not the hull. Here are some pictures of the process, as i wore gloves, completely covered in the epoxy, I did take only a few pictures, to keep the phone clean. And don't worry I will slow down the build around this weekend, as I am getting to painting of details, and it is almost freezing outside. And the other things, like the coffee corner, and the lighting needs some time. Regarding the coffee corner, it is a good idea to add it in, only I have no idea how it should look like, and where it should be placed. I don't drink coffee du to blood pressure skyrocketing, only tea. Still if you could mark it on one of the pictures, where would be an optimal position for such a thing, and a picture of how it should look like. Also I plan to make some chairs, to add around the tables on the bridge. Regarding the monkey deck, I plan on gluing it on, as either way it would be almost impossible to take it off once all the cables and hoses are in place. Since the LEDs should not burn out as normal lights (that is the theory, usually holds, until one applies higher voltage) there is no real need to access the bridge. Cheers George
  2. Hello All, So yesterday was a water leak test in the bath tub. This ended relatively well, I almost drowned the model. I didn't observe any leaks through the glue joints, just some minor leak through the stern thruster seal, this will be solved by changing the supplied rubber O-ring for a silicone sealant bead, once I will finish with the sanding of the excess glue. The major leak however happened from water pump inlet, where I put on the inlet hose, but then proceed to put a bag of lead pellets on top of it, so the entire hose ended below the water line, and trouble was born. Now I wait until the hull interior is dried. In the mean time I will most likely work on the details and the superstructure. After the test I went and glued together the first two parts of the superstructure, after I tested all the mounted LEDs, if they work. And lastly pictures of the controversial green sided ladders: I personally think it looks pery good with the green sides, as they are only on the outside, it makes the ladders blend in a bit. Cheers George
  3. Hey Peter, As you say, to me it looked a bit strange, that the top ladders are painted orange and the bottom ones should stay white, or even orange. It just din't fit to my impression of the model. And since the collour scheme of the model is already looking like a tropical bird, why not add a little extra touch of green to it... Yeah the water tightness test is scheduled for today so we will see... Cheers George
  4. Hello All, @Seamanpeter thank you for the description of the ladder problem, I was not sure if they should be the same distance, or if the distance is somehow dependent on something. I will do them with the same distance as the ladders included in the kit have. Yes it is the same phone casing 😄 well the phone is still good... So yesterday I finished gluing the stern thruster and started gluing in the bow thruster. In the stern thruster glue, there are some voids left, these will be filled after the initial sanding of the excess material, as some of then will hopefully vanish. The gluing of the bow thruster consisted of mixing the 90min epoxy with the air balloon filler, until it had a non dripping viscosity. Then I just smeared the glue on the ends of the original bow thruster channels and on the thruster body itself and assembled. The rest was then checking if there are any holes, and filling them up. The first picture shows the hull section with applied glue. The second picture shows the inserted new thruster body, with filled top parts of the joints. A different look on the new thruster installed, and checking for glue thickness/ voids. For this I used a phone flashlight (any strong lightsource can be used) shone through the channel entrances, and by the varying intensities of the scattered light visible in the glue joints, one can tell quite accurately the relative thicknesses of the glue joint sections. As I was waiting for the glue to cure I went and finished painting of the 4 ladders used on the hull. I went and painted the sides green, I wasn't certain what collour they were suposed to be, but as the ladders of the superstructure have orange sides, I though that these should follow the trend and have the sides painted green. Cheers George
  5. Hey Peter, Thank you for the insight on how it actually is on a real vessel. Honestly sometimes I tend to over-complicate the things I am trying to say. I should have written: That after searching the internet for a suitable replacement made of brass, most important factor, I found these rail stanchions from Graupner, which are 2mm higher, that the original ones, but these 2mm are, at least to me, lost in the overall model size. And one additional advantage of these stanchions is, they have the two different hole sizes bored in, which as I seen on the pictures of real this boat, and from my travels with ferries, to be the case. The top rail is bigger, than the lower ones... Regarding why I don't use the 3D printer for this. Firstly the end product, being so thin would be very fragile, and it simply would look bad. And secondly, I quite enjoy the soldering of the rails, and they are in the end quite bendy- sturdy so to speak. And lastly, I would like to use your experience, to ask you a question regarding this one ladder: I would like to know, what would you suggest for the spacing between the individual steps, and also what should be the optimal spacing of the first step of the deck? Thank you Cheers George
  6. Hello All, today I will start with a short up to speed post and finish up with by showing You the fully glued stern thruster body. As I said in a previous post, I am soldering all of the handrails and other metal components, as the masts. The biggest problem with the soldering was, that the kit supplied rail stanchions were made of aluminium. Which is possible to solder, however, even after I acquired the proper flux, it was difficult to get satisfactory results. The cornwallmodelboats.co.uk shop shows them as brass, but in the description is, that they are made of aluminium. Also the height of these is only 12mm, which in the scale of the model, 1:75, gives the height of 900mm, or 90cm, which for a ship safety feature preventing falling overboard seems to me, to be just a bit low. Also the three holes on there stanchions were all 0.8mm bore, which is again too big for two reasons. Firstly, the rail wire supplied is only 0.5mm, and second, the 0.8mm diameter gives in scale a diameter of 60mm, which is good for the topmost "grabbing" rail, but is too bulky for the two lower rails, here the 0.5mm wire just looks better. For these reasons I looked for an appropriate replacement. I found the three holed stanchion from Graupner. These have the same shape, however are 14mm high and the holes are 0.8mm top, rest is 0.5mm. The new height is in scale just over 1 meter, which seems to me to be a bit better, also regarding the model, the new height is also quite fitting. Here is a sketch of both stanchions, and a picture of the new one used: Also these stanchions are made out of brass and come oxidation-free. So they are a treat to solder, but for uniform performance of the solder joints I use the Carr's Green Label solder flux for use on brass, copper, nickel and silver. I also went and bought in our local arts and craft shop a reel of copper wire with 0.8mm diameter, as the 0.5mm dia. wire was already supplied in the kit. So in the end the grabbing rail is made of the 0.8mm wire, and the lower rails are made of the 0.5mm wire. Some images of the produced handrails. The fire-monitor deck hand rail, just soldered, I use a piece of low quality masking tape to transfer the positions of the holes to a block of wood, there I solder the handrail. And fitting the rail to the coresponding piece. The rails are then primed using Tamyia metal primer in two light coats, followed by Tamiya surface primer. And later they are painted with airbrush (not at that stage on any of the handrails yet). A picture of other, already primed handrail: the last pictures show one of the 4 ladders mounted on the hull, they are now painted white and are waiting to get green sides painted, then they will be done. Now for the progress on the repairs: Form the weekend pouring, there are still holes to be covered. For this I needed to buy a new package of epoxy glue as I feared the old one was going bad. I used the UHU 90min epoxy with micro air balloons to thicken the glue, to almost non dripping state. I plugged the holes with a piece of masking tape and shoveled the epoxy in using the spatula. until it completely surrounded the installed thruster body. And last for today's post, I started installing first ballast weights in the stern with the excess epoxy I had made. Cheers George
  7. Hey Peter, Yes I was considering the 24mm thruster, but then instead went with the smaller one, the 22mm one. As this diameter does not have the coned channels. This can be seen on this picture: Has straight channels running out of it. This I can use to my advantage, as the inner diameter of the build in channels should be also 22mm, or very close to it, this should allow me to theoretically just slide the new unit in place. The only problem now is a 1mm gap that is there after I sawed out the old unit. I wanted to change it with as little work on the exterior as possible, as I don't want to repaint the hull for the 3rd time already. Also I can see you made it quite bullet proof, so to speak, I don't think the forces from the bow thruster will be so great as to need excessive reinforcement in place. So I plan to add I bit of, probably balsa wood to create a bigger surface for the thruster to be glued on, but I will see, maybe I will do a quick test of the thruster in a sink, to see how powerful it actually is... Cheers George
  8. Good day to all, Today I will do an update of the build, regarding my progress during this weekend. I forgot to take some necessary pictures for the getting up to speed with the build post, so that will follow tomorrow. As I wrote on Saturday I got the new thrusters in. I went with the Raboesch 22mm OD thruster for the bow, and the mini thruster for the stern. I then spent the rest of the weekend getting rid of the old system in the stern. In the end I managed to peel off the top part of the Alu tube, and subsequently I sanded out the keel to accommodate for the new thruster body. Let the pictures speak for themselves: Operation in progress. First fitment picture to the left. Picture to the right, finished alu tube removal. I went and took a metal saw to it, I sawed the tube in "halves", and pried the top hlaf out. Top view of the prepared hole, I scratched the paint of the Alu a bit to improve the adhestion. On the right picture, preparation fo the initial epoxy pour, making a dam out of tape. Checking the placement of the thruster body, looking for squareness to the hull exterior, and first pour of epoxy (the yellow hint in the bottom right conrer of the hole. After the curing of the epoxy, some over flow is visible, this also covered parts of the masking tape, this however should not pose a big problem, as the parts with the tape are protruding outside the hull overall shape and will be sanded off. The later picture shows the thruster after I cut off the excess pipe. And the last picture shows how the stern thruster looks right now. I didn't finish the epoxy pouring, as I run into issues with the used epoxy, it took too long to cure and even after 2 hours still had rubber surface. I blame it on the age of the epoxy, as it is well over 2 years old... I will check today in the evening, hopefully it cured entirely. But nonetheless I will go and buy a new can of epoxy to finish up the filling. For the bow thruster I used a chisel to remove a part of the keel right behind the thruster position, this created enough space for the new thruster body. I removed the old body by sticking a hex key into the shaft hole and prying it out, which was an easy task. The initial state of the bow thruster, after the sawing of the alu tube, covered in a previous post, In the process of chiseling of the excess keel. Finished with the chisel. The hull after prying out the non used part of the old thruster system, and the pried part. Dry fitting of the new thruster body. Cheers George
  9. Hey Peter, oh thank you. Yeah I can imagine, how difficult your build will get with those modifications. But it will be that much more interesting to see how you will tackle those challenges. And some mild progress on my build: I increased the amount of collour dots and blobs on the control panels: And some teaser of what is to come in the following posts, the thrusters cane this morning. So I am working on the holes in the hull.. why I hate working around painted model: Paint scratches and chips, due to tool handling.. I will be repairing the chips after everything is done.
  10. Hey Peter, I have seen this site before 😄 However I don't really want to buy something I can, to some degree make by myself... But that doesn't mean, they don't have some very interesting things on offer. Regarding the towing winch, from model, it seems to be almost impossible to incorporate, to you now the model look big, but wait, until you start adding the electronics, it will be full in no time, I was surprised as well how fast, there was almost no space at all... And I even went with the most space conserving battery option there is to my knowledge... But I can't wait to see how yours will turn out to be, with all the interesting mods you have done. Cheers George
  11. Hey Popeye, for now I don't really have a schematic, just tags with the voltages... 😀 But I will be drawing at least a legend once I start gluing the sections of the superstructure together, because as it is now, it is quite sufficient, as most of the wires condense to sort of blocks.
  12. Hello All, Thank you all for the positive response. @Seamanpeter oh thank you for the link, I actually once found that document. And from the deck plan, made out the sizes of the furniture. Here is the general layout of the bridge furniture, also to compare with the real thing. It looks more or less similar. Also don't be sorry, I experimented and it didn't work, that happens. Of course I was angry with it, even stopped the build for some time, but in the end I got back to it, with more motivation, and more knowledge for the next project. Now for todays issue of getting up to speed. As mentioned yesterday, I will discuss some electronics and soldering related building topics. So first lets start with the batteries. For this model I opted for LiFePO4 batteries, because of their smaller size and much lower mass compared to lead-acid batteries with similar capacity. I went with 4 cells in series, so 4S battery, each cell is then 20Ah capacity, and standard voltage of 3.2V. I sourced the cells from here: https://www.ev-power.eu/LiFePO4-small-cells/LiFePO4-High-Power-Cell-3-2V-20Ah-Alu-case-CE.html?cur=1 they sell many different cell capacities, and also stock interesting cell types, like Lithium Titanate cells. Which I would like to try out in some future project, hopefully an IJN destroyer Yukikaze. The final battery pack is on following pictures. the pictures also indicate the overall dimensions of the battery. The cells are interconnected with terminal connectors, provided from the same site. Specific, for this cell are the: Terminal Connectors for ZG-LFP20AH. The cable connectors, and the bridge between the two parts of the pack are made from a standard copper wire screw connectors, don't know the exact term. The wires are soldered in. The 3 red wires coming form the individual cells are for balancing connector. The covers are made to be just push in at the moment, as the pack has to be split into the two sections, for it to fit through the hull opening. They are again made from PLA on 3D printer, later I will probably change them for ones made of PETG, for better water resistance. The overall weight of the battery is around 3kg, I will include the exact figure in a later post. Now Because of the new bow thrusters I will add a small LiPo 2S/7.2V battery pack to power them. I will use one from my other models. later, when the 12V motor variant for the front thruster is available, I will probably swap to that, so I don't need multiple batteries to run the thing. And the motor swap should be relatively easy to do. Next lets look on the power distribution in the model. For this I made a sort of distribution board in the area of the main ESC's. To explain what is this mess. The bow of the ship is located to the left of the plywood deck. From the battery there are two 4mm2 - 12AWG wires leading to the power board, here are two Hitano lowESR 2200uF/25V and one Hitano lowESR 470uF/25V capacitors. I am of the mind, that there is never too many capacitors, also it kinda looks cool. Form this PCB there are leads, going to the BEC unit and water pump in the bow. BEC is a voltage regulator, in my case it will supply 6V, 20A max, to be used by the lighting unit, to be designed and build in the future. Above the BEC is the receiver i use Jeti Model products for my other models (exept cars), so I went with the Jeti Duplex R14 EX reciever, so 14 channel model, should be more then enough. The water pump is driven by one MOSFET transistor located in the bow, this transistor will by switched also by the lighting unit. This picture still shows power leads leading to the stern where the stern thruster ESC was located, these were removed yesterday, because of the different voltage run on the new one. Lets look on the lights. For the reference on the light signs I referenced to Naval law and my Skipper course materials, section on ship light signals, basically Naval Law, but condensed, and with pictures in text, rather then on separate web page. But for reference here is an US web site: https://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=NavRulesAmalgamated#Sidelights, just I couldn't find the case for this specific tub, when the towing vessel is greater then 50 meters in length and the towed assembly exceeds the overall lenght of 200 meters. Which should lead to increase in the number of masthead lights to 4 lights in a vertical line. Or at least that is what I learned, and presumably how the Ship was configured when built, since on a picture of the mast there were 5 lights, where I presume the 5th light was an anchor light. So without further adieu here is the main and mizzen mast. Both masts are made by soldering of brass tube for the central part, and brass wire for the sides. Yes the main mast looks like a Christmas tree, when all the LEDs are lit. The mizzen mast is still missing the yellow LED above the white, because of mix-up of order parts I got instead of 5 yellow LEDs 11 relatively expensive capacitors and I didn't have the need to place an order on 5 LEDs by 25 Cents each with additional 5 Euro shipping, so for now no yellow LED present. Subsequently all the white LEDs will be matted with sand paper, to provide more homogeneous light diffusion. And the adequate sides of the LED will be painted silver under black, to create the sector light effect. Regarding the powering, all of the LEDs are connected to the mast for the Ground terminal, the mast is then contacted at the base. The positives of the LEDs are then routed using 0.4mm Dia. enameled wire copper wire through the center tube. Some details of the LED installation follows, the last picture then shows the bottom part of the mast. Last for today I will write about the interior lighting. I went with SMD LEDs for this, as they are easier to fix on a flat surface. However this posed significant challenge, as they are small, very small and therefore very susceptible to damage during soldering. I went with a mix of cold white and yellow/warm white, presumably only to complicate the thing even more, since the cold white ones would be perfectly fine all around. Here I present the bridge lighting to the left, and the "cabins" and staircases on the lower deck. The brown spots the the bright ceiling are spots, where I had to replace the LEDs after I already glued the LED stripes to the part, newer skip testing. The 3 flood lights are made of SMD LEDs as well, but using ones with much higher luminous intensity (the value measured in candela). For the other decks, the lights are mounted inside the superstructure. In the next issue I will continue on the topic of soldering, specifically how I dodged the bullet of soldering aluminium because of the supplied handrail stanchions. Cheers George
  13. Hey Peter, From my experience with my "stock" build so to speak, the displacement of the model should be around 10 to 15 kg I believe closer to the 10 kg figure. At least for the stern a ~2 kg hammer resting of the deck was enough to get the propps fully submerged, then the bow was almost entirely out of the wafer. So don't quote me exactly on the displacement. If I manage, to get the thusters for my repairs today, and mount them in the weekend, I may get you the actual displacement figure during the Sunday, if not, then maybe next week. Oh and regarding the propulsion system, maybe you don't know but there is a German company making these belt driven ones, here is a link: https://www.bauer-modelle.com/epages/Bauer_Uwe46269592.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Bauer_Uwe46269592/Categories/"Schiffsantriebe%2C Spezial- und Wellenantriebe"/"Schottel%2C Z-Antriebe" They are quite expensive to my taste, but they look to be superb build quality... Regards George
  14. Hello All, So let me try to get the build log up to speed, with the actual build progress. For information, all paint numbers written are from Tamiya paint line. First, lets start with the hull and the bridge superstructure. The first picture shows the paint job on the lower section of the hull, here in detail the starboard rubber and nozzle detail. I tried to create some shading in the colour by fist painting with black LP-1 and Italian red LP-21 with the use of airbrush. The nozzle is still missing the pint of the electrodes, to be done in flat aluminium XF-16. More details on this paint job will follow once i finish the rebuild of both of the thrusters, as now I don't want to turn the hull because of all of the debris that sits in the thurster areas after the sawing. The second picture shows the dry-fitted superstructure. The windows were done form the supplied clear plastic sheet, and glued to place with the BSI Super-Gold+ odorless CA glue (this is my CA of choice, for gluing basically everything that does not require high structural rigidity). The second set of pictures shows details of the safety railing, if that is the proper name for it. With the bottom part being painted and the top part recently finished form the supplied 5mm dowel and additionally 5mm brass tube for the compound bend in the stern portion. Here one can see my choice for water tightening this part of the hull. I used the window sealing foam on the hull and the deck has an Aluminium L profile with smoothened edges glued to the underside. Next i will dine into the bridge itself. As I managed to find a picture of the bridge on one German website. I went and designed the pieces in CAD software and printed them out in PLA with the layer thickness of 0.1mm. The stern helm still needs to have some paint "controls" added. Now for the most recent work, the rebuild of both thrusters. The new ones are, I believe, the industry standard Raboesch ones. For the Bow I ordered one middle-large bow thruster, the one with the 22mm padle housing. For the stern i ordered the mini bow thruster, because of the space confinement. For this it was necessary to first somehow remove the installed ones, I wanted to do this with as little damage to the hull as possible. So for the stern, where there is good access for drills I drilled out/broke-off the original one, with more modifications coming, as I get the thruster itself, so I can make the final adjustments. In the front the situation is more complicated as there really is no space for power tools, even with my Proxxon it was difficult to get there effectively. So the only option was manual labor with metal saw, for better efficiency I cut off the end of the blade under 45 Deg. to get longer stroke. The end result is on the picture to the right. Now the rest is to chisel out the plywood keel, on which the piece holds. In next post I will describe some parts of the mast and electronic equipment that I chose.
  15. Hello All, I apologize for not posting on the build for so long. There were two reasons, first I always forget to take pictures of the process. And second I finished university, started a job and therefore had to adjust my routines, which took some time. also I met a colleague who owns and is renovating a historic sail boat, so I invest some time there recently as well. But enough with the exuses ,back on topic. In the following posts I will try to catch up to speed with the build here and try to do regular updates of the build log. Now for the questions posted: @Seamanpeter The hull was more or less "seaworthy" so to speak, fully painted form the outside and ready for the details. Then on one of the two trial sails, I found out that the thrusters of home production had super low efficiency and I even managed to burn one of the motors during testing. This also caused me to put the build on hold for a good 6 months. This last weekend I started again, by surgically removing both of the thrusters installed form the hull. This is still ongoing effort. So now it is more like a submarine, than a floating vessel. @FoxtrotHotel No the winch at the moment doesn't have any end-stops, maybe in a future update. The latest version v1.2 (pictures will be posted in following days) is printed on a 3D printer, that I own. I was thinking of putting some end-stops on the winch, but didn't come up with a reliable way of doing it. But it can be easily taken out of the finished hull so, I will be experimenting with it once the model is finished. In the end let me post some pictures I found on my phone of the builds relatively current state. This image shows the detail on the stern, here the entire length on the railing has a 5mm dia. wooden rod, that is meant to be bend to plance on the stern, which I found to be literally impossible to do. The solution brass tube with 5mm OD and ~0.5mm wall thickness. just for info the white putty like stuff is epoxy mixed with micro air balloons, something of this sort: https://www.lindinger.at/en/supplies-und-misc/building-materials/pore-fillers-und-putties/rg-micro-balloons-ul-250ml-can I will have to find the tin with the rest, to determine the exact type, also i quite need it for the next steps.... The picture shows the model how it was till last weekend, mostly painted. In the end I used Tamiya Paints for everything. For the underwater section I went with the Dull Red paint (TS-33 or LP-18) with som accents made by Italian red LP-21 and black LP-1 done by airbrush. before the main paint coat. I will include some details on the results in later post. The top part of the hull is painted with Tamiya TS-22 light green. Which to me looks relatively spot on. However I had hoped for it to be the same shade as the X-15 light green, in the end there is slight diference in the colour. To me this is negligible difference, I will include a picture of this difference. The blue is then the standard TS-15 blue. For the colour picking I mainly use this picture: Unfortunately I picked the wrong orange (Tamiya TS-15 in hopes it is the same as the X-6 which would be perfect shade, at least to me), so mine is too red. But since the cockpit has all of the glass work done it is just easier to continue with the wrong shade, then to try and mask everything of and repaint it, I think. However it would certainly look better with different orange. I have also see the same problem on many other models, that I found on the internet. Best Regards to everyone still interested in the build. I will try to keep posted this time around. George

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