Jump to content

George-JK

Members
  • Content Count

    58
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About George-JK

  • Birthday 04/26/1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Villach, Austria

Recent Profile Visitors

563 profile views
  1. Hello Harbourmaster, This is exactly the thing! WOW Now I can move forward a bit on the build again. Thank you very much! Cheers, George
  2. Hi Rob, Mark @Rob: Thank you for the link, the stanchions from the second link look exactly right. Many thanks! Even if they are slightly off, it will be fine, as long, as they have the correct shape,which they do. @Mark: Many thanks for your build images! I actually once found these pictures, and decided to go with the Fairmount as well. However I lost the link in the passage of time. So thank you for posting the link here. Cheers, George
  3. Hi, thank you for the suggestion! Can you send me, post here a detail of the stanchion? Also how tall are they, the ones I used are 14mm 3hole ones, if these are similar in size, that would be perfect. Thanks! Cheers, George
  4. Very good looking model! I also am a big fan of IJN ships. The weathering looks awesome, much better then what I can produce. 😀 Regarding the weathering, I personally feel, it is a bit too much for a ship in service, meaning it looks more like an abandoned ship, then a ship in service. But this is just my personal opinion on the matter, never seen a ship coming back from deployment in a war, so can't comment on how rusty they are. I just go off what can be seen on modern working ships... Never the less if you like how the model looks, that is the most important thi
  5. Hello All, A short update on the progress of the build. It is still ongoing, but very slow. The reason is that I miss 20 rail stanchions to finish the bridge railings, and since the Graupner, company that made the ones I used, vent bankrupt, again. There is no stock anywhere of this tipe of railing stanchions. But none the less here are a couple of progress pictures. I worked on the superstructure, assembling the main mast and the bridge roof. Gluing of the mast onto the roof, I fastened the roof in a Dremel vice top to hold it on its side. A big cabl
  6. Hello Jerry, I measured the shaft, only roughly, but they seem to be the 255mm variant, which would fit their size quite well. However I suggest once you start building the stern, you do a quick measurement from the rudder shaft axis until the inner side of the wooden shaft pass-through. This would give you the minimal length of the shaft itself, without the engine flange. I think this distance is something less then 200mm, so I opted for the 255mm shafts as I was not sure how long the shaft flange is. What I mean is these two holes, naturely when the bulkheads are
  7. Hello Jerry, I am glad the information helped you. I understand your issues. Well at least the motor can be anything you can get in the US, the only requirement are the mounting hole placement, and the KV number (the number of revolutions per Volt, lower is better). The propshaft can be a bit more tricky, as I haven't seen anyone else do the same design, even though it is the best way to ensure that the two shafts are coaxial, motor/sropshaft. Cheers,
  8. Hello Jerry, Thanks for the clarification. The "silver" joiner is a aluminium hard joint that was supplied with the propshafts. Simply they are Alu rods with 4mm hole dia and 4x M3 grub screws, two per side. They are good if the shaft-motor axes are concentric, then they are the best solution, as they minimize the noise. I think I had to drill the holes, because they are supplied in 3.2/4 mm size, typical for the intended brushed motor shaft of 3.175 mm. I believe one can get even a 4/4 mm ones in the aftermarket parts. Then regarding the motor mount itself, the bigger Al
  9. Hello Jerry, Sorry for my late reply. I am not sure I understand what you mean by couplers. If you mean the Electronic Speed Controllers or ESCs (for big machines they are called inverters), then I used a chinese version of these ones: https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/collections/seaking-series/products/seaking-30a-v3-esc?variant=840986853 But any brushless ESC that has a forward/reverse mode should be fine. Be careful if they are sensored as many of the ECS for RC cars that have FW/REV mode are for sensored motors. They don't need to be extremely powerful for these kinds of
  10. @popeye the sailor The PE hand wheels are supplied by a Polish model shop super-hobby, they have multiple web addresses, depending where you live in EU, each is in that country language, I use the Austrian one, but lined is the UK shop... https://www.super-hobby.co.uk/products/Hand-wheels-1-selection.html They have quite an extensive assortment of things for plastic models. Cheers George
  11. Hello All, Sorry for the long response time, I was doing some different builds for some time. In the mean time I mostly finished the hull. There should be just a couple of pieces left, that need to get pained and glued on. I added the life floats on the mid decks on both sides as well as the lights to these decks. The following picture shows the gluing of the life floats, the kit supplied ones are made of brass, they look really nice, but are terribly heavy, so I will see how long they will survive glued on with super glue... The used LEDs are some cold w
  12. Hello All, Just a short update, I need to start making more pictures... But here are some preview photos of the progress up to now. Gluing of the rope guide rails with epoxy. Yes the shade of the orange is completely diffident... But it will have to do now. And some detail painting, first the main mast being painted in the black, and then some miscellaneous details being primed in white. I must apologize for the composition of the last picture, next time it will be better as I cleaned my table on Sunday. And yes that thing behind is an airplane noseco
  13. Hello All, @popeye the sailor Thank you, I use these occasional sail as a motivation for the build. @Imagna Yes I can imagine that the Alps here produce similar vistas to those in the Northwest US. Although I only seen that part of the world in pictures... I like that spot on the pictures because usually the water is calm there, and since even in Sommer the water does not reach temps higher than 15ºC there are usually no swimmers. Cheers George
  14. Hello All, As I said here are the pictures of already installed details. The rest of the finished details is waiting for the main towline guards (the pair of orange tubes running on sides) to be painted orange. Cheers George
×
×
  • Create New...