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    Chantilly, Virginia
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    Both steel and sail.

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  1. Ilhan Ive also been using a CAD program, Cadopia, to draw the plans for the blockade runner. I’ve never used Delftship. I’ll have to give it a try. I took a look at your your Flikr albums. That’s quite a body of work! I was also impressed with your work area. It’s much neater than mine! Vince
  2. Ilhan The deck beams could be either angles or I-beams, but I would bet on I -beams. The blockade runner I’m working on used I-beams constructed of steel plate sandwiched between a pair of angles on the top and bottom. Your plans look great, and it looks like a sweet little steamer. Are you using a CAD program or drawing by hand? Vince
  3. This gets a little difficult to describe, but here goes ... The weight of the paddle box itself is carried by three beans: two “paddle beams” that run athwartship, and a “spring beam” that connects the outer ends of the paddle beams. The paddle beams sit under the forward and aft ends of the paddle box and the spring beam sits under the outer “face” of the box. The paddle decks, sometimes called wing decks, are forward and aft of the box, and are usually triangular in shape. Like the paddle box, the paddle decks are supported by a series of atwartship beams. A fender beam mounted on the end of these beams forms the outer edge of the paddle decks. The fender beams join into the spring beam by scarf joints, producing a smooth transition from the fender to the spring beam. The paddle decks were often perforated using either gratings or perforated steel plate. This allowed water to drain from the decks and, more importantly, to go UP through the perforations when the ship was struck by a wave or heeled enough to submerge the paddle deck. The stays aided in supporting the decks against the impact of the water. Without them the paddle decks could be torn off by the force of water trapped under the falling paddle decks. BTW, I learned most of this while researching and developing plans for a civil war blockade robber. The plans will be included with a book that will be published in the near future.
  4. Side wheelers often had iron stays that ran from the outer ends of the paddle beams to the ship’s hull, where they bolted to one of the ship’s frames. These are not supports to keep the paddle decks from sagging. The paddle beams are strong enough to support the decks. The stays are intended to distribute the stress of water impacting the underside of the paddle deck from waves or from the sea surface as the ship heels. No stays are needed under the forward and aft ends of the paddle boxes because water can flow into the paddle box rather than slamming into the underside of a deck. So there wouldn’t be stays at the locations that you’ve marked in green. Vince McCullough
  5. Clamp a piece of sheet stock on your drill press table (the Dremel press should work for this) and drill a hole part way through it with a diameter equal to the outside diameter of your sheave. Without unclamping the sheet, change bits to one the diameter of the shaft through the sheave. Put the sheave in the hole in the sheet and drill the hole for the shaft. It should be exactly centered in the sheave. Then pop the sheave out of the jig ( you might want to use a shaft through the center hole to wiggle it out) and move on to the next sheave. Vince
  6. They’re ivory. The rigging (like most of the Rogers models) was done by Henry Culver in 1924. Vince McCullough
  7. One other comment on drilling. One of the easiest ways to break a drill is to have it deflect, or “skate” then it makes contact with the workpiece. To avoid this you can to punch a pilot hole at the location where you want to drill. The found two wars of doing this. The first is to make a small punch by grinding a point onto an old drill bit. You can chuck the blunt end of the bit into your drill press and then, while it’s rotating, us a grinding wheel in a rotary tool to grind a point on the end of the bit. The punch can (and should) be quite a bit larger than the hole you want to drill. You just want to make a small dimple for the drill bit to rid in. I put the punch in the press, lower tit down until it presses on the workpiece, then replace the punch with the drill bit for the hole I wNt to drill, angry to work. the other approach is to use a center drill, which has a large, rigid Drill body with a small spotting drill at the end. These come in various sizes. The smallest that I have is a 5/0 drill, which has an 0.010 diameter spotting drill. These are particularly useful when drilling through a rod. The heavy body of the center drill prevents the spotting tip from skating on the rounded surface of the rod. Vince
  8. A couple of months ago I did some repairs to som damaged rigging on one of the Rogers Collection models at the US Naval Academy museum, the brig PILOT. The model has no sails and the running rigging was as Dave indicated. Knots were tied in the bitter ends and the they were drawn up to their respective blocks. Vince
  9. I was unable to attend the conference again this year. How did It go? Any comments? Vince
  10. Another approach would be to use a shooting board and a small plane. The plane should shave VERY small amounts off the end of the plank, and if it’s sharp, it should give you a very clean end.
  11. I suspect that the problem with the BB’s is due to their composition. BB’s are usually made of steel, not Brass. They have a coating thick is probably brass, but if it has been compromised on some of them, the underlying steel may interfere with the blackening process.
  12. Instead of screws or bolts, try using wedges/shins to snug the center board up to the building frame. Vince
  13. I have a Sherline lathe that I subsequently equipped with their DRO as an add-on. It's a huge improvement on counting the number of times that I've cranked the handwheels. I end up with fewer parts spoiled when I lose track of the number of times I've turned the crank. With regard to portability, the wires unhook readily, so that's not a problem.
  14. Dave As Mickey Martell used to say, " t'aint a hobby if you gotta hurry." You'll be back up and making sawdust soon enough. Vince

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