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    Chantilly, Virginia
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    Both steel and sail.

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  1. Congratulations on finishing, Dave! Ship modeling is an exercise in persistence. The model looks fabulous! Vince
  2. Oops! I just blew the photo up more an saw the rod that I think you are referring to. I agree, probably for life lines.
  3. The “rod” above the yard looks to me like a stuffing sail boom.
  4. Hey Vince hello, I hope you are well.
    Referring to my drawings I have two more points which I'm uncertain and would ask you if you have an opinion.

    For the outside bearing support of the shaft of the paddle wheel there is only one cross section drawing. On this drawing it's said that there is a hole 15'' Dia. So I assume that this support is box like construction (like prisma) , two triangular side plates and the front is also covered with a plate with a hole in center.
    But in such a case it would be always water at the bottom of the box. Is that plausible or how can this construction be? Do you have any idea ?


    1. Ilhan Gokcay

      Ilhan Gokcay

      Second I wonder if it is plausible that sponsons are sloping inwards to the ship. It is on the original drawings. 


  5. The three volumes are all different. One covers misting, one covers rigging and one covers sail, oar and block making. Vince
  6. I just heard from his wife, Juanita, that Harry Ohanian passed away from metastatic prostate cancer this morning at 11:20. He had been under hospice care at their home in Florida for several months. Harry was a long-time member of the NRG and of the Washington Ship Model Society, which he led as skipper from 1999 through 2000. He and I co-chaired the 2001 NRG conference, which may well have been the first conference of any kind to be held in Washington DC following the attacks of September 11. Harry is survived by his wife, his son John and daughter-in-law Lori and two granddaughters.
  7. I highly recommend the Foran and Underhill books. Foran is a good introduction to working in brass to build entire brass models, which are mostly aircraft. He is fantastically creative. He does not, if I recall, use silver soldering in his book, instead relying on soft solders. Underhill is specifically focused on ship modeling, and has useful tips on how to fabricate the small but complicated parts that we need. He speaks about silver soldering, using an alcohol lamp and a blowpipe. Today you can use butane torches and silver solder paste, which are a lot easier.
  8. Ilhan Ive also been using a CAD program, Cadopia, to draw the plans for the blockade runner. I’ve never used Delftship. I’ll have to give it a try. I took a look at your your Flikr albums. That’s quite a body of work! I was also impressed with your work area. It’s much neater than mine! Vince
  9. Ilhan The deck beams could be either angles or I-beams, but I would bet on I -beams. The blockade runner I’m working on used I-beams constructed of steel plate sandwiched between a pair of angles on the top and bottom. Your plans look great, and it looks like a sweet little steamer. Are you using a CAD program or drawing by hand? Vince
  10. This gets a little difficult to describe, but here goes ... The weight of the paddle box itself is carried by three beans: two “paddle beams” that run athwartship, and a “spring beam” that connects the outer ends of the paddle beams. The paddle beams sit under the forward and aft ends of the paddle box and the spring beam sits under the outer “face” of the box. The paddle decks, sometimes called wing decks, are forward and aft of the box, and are usually triangular in shape. Like the paddle box, the paddle decks are supported by a series of atwartship beams. A fender beam mounted on the end of these beams forms the outer edge of the paddle decks. The fender beams join into the spring beam by scarf joints, producing a smooth transition from the fender to the spring beam. The paddle decks were often perforated using either gratings or perforated steel plate. This allowed water to drain from the decks and, more importantly, to go UP through the perforations when the ship was struck by a wave or heeled enough to submerge the paddle deck. The stays aided in supporting the decks against the impact of the water. Without them the paddle decks could be torn off by the force of water trapped under the falling paddle decks. BTW, I learned most of this while researching and developing plans for a civil war blockade robber. The plans will be included with a book that will be published in the near future.
  11. Side wheelers often had iron stays that ran from the outer ends of the paddle beams to the ship’s hull, where they bolted to one of the ship’s frames. These are not supports to keep the paddle decks from sagging. The paddle beams are strong enough to support the decks. The stays are intended to distribute the stress of water impacting the underside of the paddle deck from waves or from the sea surface as the ship heels. No stays are needed under the forward and aft ends of the paddle boxes because water can flow into the paddle box rather than slamming into the underside of a deck. So there wouldn’t be stays at the locations that you’ve marked in green. Vince McCullough
  12. Clamp a piece of sheet stock on your drill press table (the Dremel press should work for this) and drill a hole part way through it with a diameter equal to the outside diameter of your sheave. Without unclamping the sheet, change bits to one the diameter of the shaft through the sheave. Put the sheave in the hole in the sheet and drill the hole for the shaft. It should be exactly centered in the sheave. Then pop the sheave out of the jig ( you might want to use a shaft through the center hole to wiggle it out) and move on to the next sheave. Vince
  13. They’re ivory. The rigging (like most of the Rogers models) was done by Henry Culver in 1924. Vince McCullough
  14. One other comment on drilling. One of the easiest ways to break a drill is to have it deflect, or “skate” then it makes contact with the workpiece. To avoid this you can to punch a pilot hole at the location where you want to drill. The found two wars of doing this. The first is to make a small punch by grinding a point onto an old drill bit. You can chuck the blunt end of the bit into your drill press and then, while it’s rotating, us a grinding wheel in a rotary tool to grind a point on the end of the bit. The punch can (and should) be quite a bit larger than the hole you want to drill. You just want to make a small dimple for the drill bit to rid in. I put the punch in the press, lower tit down until it presses on the workpiece, then replace the punch with the drill bit for the hole I wNt to drill, angry to work. the other approach is to use a center drill, which has a large, rigid Drill body with a small spotting drill at the end. These come in various sizes. The smallest that I have is a 5/0 drill, which has an 0.010 diameter spotting drill. These are particularly useful when drilling through a rod. The heavy body of the center drill prevents the spotting tip from skating on the rounded surface of the rod. Vince

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