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    Chantilly, Virginia
  • Interests
    Both steel and sail.

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  1. A couple of months ago I did some repairs to som damaged rigging on one of the Rogers Collection models at the US Naval Academy museum, the brig PILOT. The model has no sails and the running rigging was as Dave indicated. Knots were tied in the bitter ends and the they were drawn up to their respective blocks. Vince
  2. Another approach would be to use a shooting board and a small plane. The plane should shave VERY small amounts off the end of the plank, and if it’s sharp, it should give you a very clean end.
  3. I suspect that the problem with the BB’s is due to their composition. BB’s are usually made of steel, not Brass. They have a coating thick is probably brass, but if it has been compromised on some of them, the underlying steel may interfere with the blackening process.
  4. Instead of screws or bolts, try using wedges/shins to snug the center board up to the building frame. Vince
  5. I have a Sherline lathe that I subsequently equipped with their DRO as an add-on. It's a huge improvement on counting the number of times that I've cranked the handwheels. I end up with fewer parts spoiled when I lose track of the number of times I've turned the crank. With regard to portability, the wires unhook readily, so that's not a problem.
  6. Dave As Mickey Martell used to say, " t'aint a hobby if you gotta hurry." You'll be back up and making sawdust soon enough. Vince
  7. Very nice work! I never considered using card for framing. I'll have to try that on an upcoming project. Vince
  8. Allan is correct. The model of the FA at the Naval Academy museum is the basis for all existing model plans. I believe the model is still on display, but if not, I'm sure the curator (Don Preul) would be willing to pull it from storage if you decide to visit. Vince McCullough
  9. I've been silver soldering for several years now using a butane "pencil" torch purchased at one of the big box home centers (Lowes or Home Depot). For solder and flux I buy silver solder paste from a jeweler's supply. I use Rio Grande, but all of the online suppliers carry it. Like the wire, it comes in grades from "extra easy" to "hard," with increasing melting points. The paste itself is a mixture of flux, very fine solder power and an inert grease, and comes in a hypodermic style tube. For most small fittings, I take a fine price of wire and pick up just a trace of paste and apply it to the workpiece where I want the joint (the work should be as clean as possible), hit it with the torch and pickle it once the bond has been made. You can make EXTREMELY small joints this way, like soldering a .3mm ring to the end of a peice of wire to make a railing stantion for a 1/16 scal model. The pencil touch works for almost every job, as long as it's fairly small. However, if you're working with a larger peice of brass, use a regular plumbers torch with propane or MAP gas. I had to do this to solder blades onto a heavy propellor hub for a 1:64 scale sub. The hub was just to heavy. BTW, if you are looking for butane, the big box stores sell it where they stock the torches. Same kind of can that you use for lighters.
  10. Also, I think it's more than a modeling convention. I looked at photos of several other models as well, and they all have that elongated slot. I think that this represents actual practice.

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