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jlefever

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About jlefever

  • Birthday October 1

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    Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests
    Many - Life in all its complexity and beauty.

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  1. Fitting Out the Framed Dove – Below Deck (Part 2) Work on the framed Dove has continued below deck. This post concentrates on the cabin interior and starting main deck framing. In the first image both bulkheads are now complete, the flooring for the fore hold has been framed and partially installed and additional main deck framing and knees added. I’m still not sure about the long-term wisdom of the tabs connecting the Dove’s ribs to my little erection box but so far, they have afforded me a strong rigid frame against which to work and flex the interior pla
  2. Fitting Out the Framed Dove – Below Deck In this section I’ll discuss the work on the Framed Dove that went below deck. This includes the framing, planking, floors, cabin accommodations and the two holds. The work starts with the bilge and upper clamps and the lighter ceiling applied to the inside of the Dove’s ribs. Much as they do on the actual ship, the clamps (heavy planks attached to the insides of the ribs running the length of the hull) unite the independent ribs into a stiffer structure. First applied are the bilge clamps about midway up the ribs near the “turn of
  3. Building a Bread-and-Butter Solid Hull Now that the Framed Dove is underway it’s time to start stacking and gluing on the solid hull Dove. With a lot fewer parts this will be a much faster start. With the framed model when I laser cut the parts in many cases I left small tabs to retain the pieces in the wood sheet. With the bread and butter lifts I didn’t bother and simply cut them out. They were big enough that I had no worry about losing them. Figure 8‑1 - Laser Cut Solid Hull Lifts With parts in hand one of the first things I did was stack the
  4. 1 Building a Framed Hull With dozens of little rib parts in hand I began the first assembly process, building up the individual ribs. At rib -0- both the fore and aft halves of the rib were pretty much the same profile. Forward of station -0- the smaller half of each rib would be its forward portion and of course aft of -0- it would be the after portion. Using the lines scribed on the larger side of the rib during the cutting process I began attaching the sections of the smaller side with glue. Below are the parts used to make up the starboard portion of rib 8.
  5. Burning Wood Laser Cutter To my CAD system the laser cutter looks like an old style pen plotter. The cutter takes a series of simple point to point move instructions moving either with the laser turned on or off. It is quite precise and proceeds remarkable quickly. Figure 6‑1 - Cutting the First Pieces In this image you can see parts being cut. The red device is the actual laser head and directly below it you can see the hot spot where cutting is actually happening. There’s little smoke but can see a buildup of white soot on the head.
  6. Nice looking model. Case isn't bad either. Jim
  7. Lofting the Solid Hull “Bread-and-Butter” Dove Water Line Lifts As I develop this log, I intend to zig zag back and forth between my framed model and my solid hull. So, here are the next steps in making a solid hull model. I’m assuming that most of you know the concept of building up a solid hull with the bread-and-butter technique but just to make sure, in brief a bread-and-butter model is built up of a number of planks or lifts each cut to the shape of the hull in a series of progressive sections. It can look much like a contour map. In any case, done right it avo
  8. In this post, which I'm titling "Lofting the Framed Dove" I get a bit closer to thinking about building an actual model. First there's filling the Gaps Now that I have a nearly complete set of lines, I need only to add the lines left out of the original plan (at stations A, C, E, 1, 3, 5) but that I need to loft a full set of ribs. These lines are interpolated between the given half breadth lines by projecting new offsets that touch the waterlines, buttock lines and diagonals. This adds the following six new lines. Figure 4‑1 - Infill Half Breadth Lin
  9. What a wonderful project! I think if it were up to me (which it isn't) I'd stick as close to your father's initial approach rather than doing too much to update the model. The connection to your father's handwork could be quite valuable. I'm sure there are many good sources on the Cutty Sark, especially in England, however if you can find a copy of Nepean Longridge's The "Cutty Sark" that isn't too expensive you might enjoy it and get some useful direction in modeling the Sark. My dog eared copy was published here in the US in 59. Jim
  10. An interesting "diversion". If I ever succeed in wresting my current project to the ground, this type of project could be a lot of fun. Neat but not stressful. Jim
  11. ...so a bit more on extracting the shape of my hull from table of offsets Chapelle included in his set of drawings. I'm not sure if they come from the builder or from Chapelle's measurements of the builder's half model. Buttock Lines The next lines I constructed were the Buttock lines. These lines are offset vertically from the base line but each of the four buttock lines is also shifted away from the from the keel center at one-foot intervals. The following example shows the second Buttock, shifted 24”s from the keel then then offset vertically (from the keel / ba
  12. It's nice to be reminded that seamanship is a world tradition and has many interesting forms. Jim
  13. OK, mine was the Bismarck, but wow what a trip back in time to a place where I lived from one plastic kit to another. Maybe I was addicted to the smell of glue. In any case, you did a lot better on this kit than I did in my teen age years. Jim
  14. Perhaps the first eccentric step in my process was the decision to use the Table of Offsets to shape my model, discarding at least temporarily the three other sheets of plans in the set. The table purports to be numeric or digital representation of the hull form (coming from a very non-digital time). Being numeric it is scale independent but can be used by the loftsman to directly layout out each of the ships lines without needing to make scaled measurements from the plans. The next two posts describe how I used the table. (Those of you who already understand the proce
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