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Posts posted by Brucealanevans

  1. The fore and aft pieces are on different 1/32 sheets that are a significantly different color.

    The aft piece midline/division between the two pieces seems off. While the mizzen mast hole is on the midline. the hatch markings are, as seen asymmetric, and the edges don't line up with the fore pieces.

    Are these faulty pieces? I don't see how I can correct this by messing with the notches without throwing things off.

    Help please!


  2. Continuing to work at a slow pace, given other activities demanding my time.

    Finished with the stern structure. A fair amount of fiddling (including correcting things that migrated under clamping while the glue set, and, as is my habit, having to "unglue" and replace 2 pieces I cheerfully put in upside down) and a LOT of sanding. Using a small hand held battery driven Dremel tool with sanding drum to rough out some of that which helps a lot.

    Here's where things stand, now ready for placing the false deck:


    aft structure completed (1 of 5).jpg

    aft structure completed (2 of 5).jpg

  3. Finished with bulkhead faring. A lot of sanding. I was really quite diligent with this, probably more so than on the previous builds.

    Also put the shadowbox and its ribs in - again, a lot of sanding to bring it into line with the bulkheads.

    No surprises or issues thus far, but I'm about to start on the stern structure, the like of which I have not previously done.

    May not get going on this for a week or two with holiday and other projects. This will be a slow build.

    Faring completed-2.jpg

    Faring completed-3.jpg

    Faring completed-4.jpg

  4. Search hobby world USA for hobbyzone professional building slip. 
    it was discussed quite a bit here a few years back. 
    putting it together from diagram based instructions a bit of a PITA - you need to be very careful regarding part identification and orientation. Originated in Poland I think. 
    there is a smaller one nowhere near as flexible. 

  5. I've decided to dig into my stash and take out the oldest resident there: Model Shipways USF Confederacy.

    This is going to be a slow build, because I only have a couple of hours a day to devote to it; too many other kinds of projects going on.

    Since there are a very large number of both old and new build logs of the Confederacy, I'm not going to post a blow by blow description. Plan on periodic updates and asking advice for problems encountered since many have built this model. 

    I was relieved to find the kit had the good plywood, and there was no warping despite its period of neglect.

    I dusted off the snazzy build board I bought primarily for this build once I determined that this big mother would fit. The building "board" is amazingly flexible once you figure out how to arrange all the bits depending on what you want to do.

    I just moved the model up from the base clamp once I finished placing the bulkheads, filler blocks, stern and bow fillers, and fitted balsa blocks at the bow.

    So, ready for faring. The board apparatus allows for rotation of the model, and some clamps (visible in the photo below) holds it rock steady together with the fore and aft clamps. I've got it turned to work on the starboard faring, and will start that soon. It looks like I will have plenty of clearance for constructing the stern pieces, and other than rotating from side to side I should be able to do all of the upper planking at least with the current positioning of the attachment points. Pretty neat.

    Planning pretty much an out of the box build, perhaps except replacing the cannon with Chuck's. I wish he still had replacement figurehead though.

    That's all for now.


    Ready for Faring-1.jpg

    Ready for Faring-2.jpg

  6. Getting real close now.

    With the cargo and main deck people in place I could finally add the bull rails.

    It really helped to paint the whole set of wood strips (24") ahead of time. Then I could measure for each interval and cut 5 pieces off with a sharp x-acto chisel and immediately place them on/in the brackets, and then glue a bunch of them in place at one time.

    Put together and installed all the rigging for the stage. I used Syren Co. small hooks (the older black plastic ones I had from the Morgan build) which worked really well. I used epoxy for all of the cleats - learned my lesson from previous builds when cleats popped off using CA when tension applied. Adds a overnight wait but the security is worth it.

    Now trim the stage rigging, make and place a bunch of rope coils for that rigging and for the 2 sets of boat boom rigging. And some touch-up painting here and there and a bit of pastels weathering in a few places.

    Then .... finished.1397260741_BullRailsandStage-1.thumb.jpg.933a5db8724d905a1e749e4a67ed76fd.jpg229476907_BullRailsandStage-2.thumb.jpg.712e230ec89c7f662ed2fd0453bb0256.jpg981066452_BullRailsandStage-3.thumb.jpg.0c31b883bd2b89524d9d12d8c844ba38.jpg

  7. Kurt

    Many thanks to you.

    Without your series of articles this build would not have been anywhere near what it is.

    I strongly suggest that anyone undertaking building the MS Chaperon kit have copies of those articles in hand.

    The suggestion of scratch building turnbuckles rather than using the supplied flat brass pieces alone added significantly to the appearance. Gluing card to the inside of the cabin walls that are bent 90 degree curves was truly a lifesaver. To say nothing of the modifications to the pilot house and the boiler that add greatly to the realism. Thank you again.

    By the way, did the end part of Part 2 get cut off in the publication?

  8. Moving along...

    Finished the rigging (except for the boats). Got the railings all in place.

    I had a lot of trouble with the brass roof decorations for the pilot house and Texas. Decided to try a different brand of CA (Bob Smith Industries) and it worked much better - no problem with placing and gluing the railings which I had been dreading.

    Here's some pictures of current status.

    Most of the people are in place. Awaiting some cast seed/grain bags to fill out the cargo areas, after which I'll place the main deck rails.

    Other than that, the boats and their booms and rigging and the foredeck stuff remain.

    Railings Complete-1.jpg

    Railings Complete-2.jpg

    Railings Complete-3.jpg

    Railings Complete-4.jpg

    Railings Complete-5.jpg

    Railings Complete-6.jpg

  9. Took a break and made up some cotton bales for cargo.

    Painted my cuspidors to look like brass.

    Touched up some of the people I've been collecting for the voyage.


    I have a few barrels left over from previous builds, and have some white metal grain/seed sacks coming. I think that will complete the cargo loaded onto the main deck.




    People Bales Spitoons-2.jpg

    People Bales Spitoons-3.jpg

    People Bales Spitoons-4.jpg

    People Bales Spitoons-5.jpg

    People Bales Spitoons-1.jpg

  10. Finished and glued in place the pilot house staircase.

    This was fiddly - getting the alignment of the staircase and the pilot house landing correct - and many of the glue spots were small so really quite fragile. Took 3 days to give the glue (used Tite-Bond carpenter's glue to allow adjustment during the setup time) time to securely set before advancing to the next step and then finally painting.

    I was glad to finally get it glued securely in place.

    Next will be the bits and bobs that go on the texas deck as well as placing all of the eyebolts on that deck prior to putting the rail in place.

    Pilot House Stairs-1.jpg

    Pilot House Stairs-2.jpg

  11. Finished the stacks and put them in place and glued.

    Wondered about the running lights as when placed per the plans I thought "well, how do they fill/light them?"

    Apparently the brackets had a small sheave in the end so that the lamp could be lowered and raised by a halyard.

    Interestingly, the picture on the cover of the box shows such a halyard although the rigging plan sheet does not.

    Anyway, I did mount the lights on the stacks, and will approximate the function of the halyard when rigging. You can just make them out in these views from behind since apparently they were placed so as not to be visible from the pilot house and compromise the pilot's night vision.

    So I guess I was right not to light the pilot house with an LED lamp, or so I can tell myself.



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