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Posts posted by RGL
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- Dubz, mtaylor, popeye the sailor and 8 others
- 11
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- popeye the sailor, mtaylor, Tom E and 6 others
- 9
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- Canute, popeye the sailor, mtaylor and 2 others
- 5
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Unfortunately at .3mm it’s a slow manual engineering job.
Anyway, I’ve now drilled every hole in the hull. There’s a lot of brass to go above the waterline. If I tape over brass that has gone on top of primer it will be pulled off when I remove it after painting the lower hull.
So, time to paint the lower hull.
- lmagna, mtaylor, Old Collingwood and 2 others
- 5
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Not really, my HMB endeavour had about 5000 treenails, but I could drill the wood with a Demel, this is with a Pin Vise.
I left the curly wurlies as you call them Cog so I could see where I was up to as I was watching a German TV series at the time and unlike you I have to read the subtitles
- Canute, lmagna, Old Collingwood and 3 others
- 6
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- Canute, Old Collingwood, Jack12477 and 6 others
- 9
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Cut a tiny length of card that you can lay on the deck. It will give you a backdrop and help you see the hole that you have to put the rigging through.
- Old Collingwood, mtaylor, Canute and 2 others
- 5
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The primer coats are fairly thick (multiple oversprays. As you know, there is a lot of brass to go on the hull so I was never going to add it first otherwise the detail would go.
The scribing of the panels gives me a guide a guide when I paint (modulation panels) that I can use for chipping on the edges etc.
that way my mistakes on this build wont have to be yours.
The armour panels are very stark close up as the ship was ship was in Dock after Dogger Bank where it was absolutely pounded which would have moved them and burnt off paint
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So, using the template from the instructions, I’ve drilled the holes for the torpedo net booms.
2 things, the scale in the instructions are out. Regardless you’ll have to use them as the torpedo nets will be the same scale.
The port side side template is also different to the kits placement of the hull cannons and alignment.
Finally, the rubbish carbide .3mm drill bits will not cut into plastic as apparently they are for cleaning printer nozzles. I need to find a decent source.
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Found it, I’m sure Mr K does not mind. http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=163104&hilit=Yamato
- lmagna, popeye the sailor, Canute and 2 others
- 5
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I hyperlinked his build on that site on my Yamato build. There is a fair bit of how to.
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You will pretty much lose all PE detail unless you airbrush your top coats. Especially when you modulate your colours. There are some excellent tutorials on U-Tube by AK interactive or look at @Koppalakki masterpiece build on shipmodelworld world for his Yamato. I learnt so much from him on that build.
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Well done mate, once you’ve done individual stanchions you’ll never go back as it looks so much better.
- Old Collingwood, mtaylor, lmagna and 2 others
- 5
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Canute shows just how much detail there is, so additionally I’ll do individual stanchions, (the Tamiya metal set will be fine as it’s got two railings, there is a ship’s bell on the forward funnel, and lots of little bits and pieces that be used to enhance it. A lot from spares but it needs a large amount of rigging blocks.
I photocopied the drilling template so when I stuff it up or pour something on it I have an emergency.
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Geeze I wish. I’ve got a lot on this month. I’ve got to put the ringols on first anyways. There is a lot of extra detail to put on this one even with the aftermarket.
- lmagna, Old Collingwood, Canute and 3 others
- 6
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SMS Seydlitz by Canute, Cog, Stein Gildberg & RGL - FINISHED - Hobbyboss - 1/350 - PLASTIC
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day
Posted
Now, the three sisters of grunge, grey black and green. Using very filter light grey to overspray, then diluted black to draw in the ribs, a light grey overspray again to tone it down.
There will be a large dark grey bootstrap which I intend to almost rub off (all the references show it rubs off easily) then I can add a salt and green alge coat.