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Everything posted by ejgray52

  1. Been a while since I posted any updates; life got in the way... Still working on the deckhouses and fittings; the wheelhouse is still an on going project, the photos show up areas which need to be redone etc.I can see why people take years to complete projects! The funnel is complete with just the ladder to go, the capstan area has been remodelled to represent what is actually there, instead of the rectangle of wood supplied. I've had a go at weathering it, just needs the colour added back to tone it down - the photo makes it look a lot rustier than it is. Working at the moment on the davits,
  2. I had backed the wheelhouse walls with cartridge paper as suggested in the instructions, to prevent the wood from splitting as the openings were cut out (It didn't work!). As you can see in the previous photos, it reacted with the paint I applied. So it was time to remove what I could and start the walls again... I've added some more details, which are based on the original, so looking through the windows will not reveal an empty space. Other equipment such as the wheel, binnacle etc. will be sourced from the spares box and fitted. I'll modify the kit provided fittings for the duplicate wheel
  3. Not had much time in the workshop, what with the family and a couple of days when it was too hot in there... Been pressing on with the deck houses and fittings, using the various resources to add additional details. Just added some bits and pieces to the wheelhouse using photo images generated on Photoshop; looked for similar items on the web and then arranged them and reduced the finished item to the right scale. The chart is actually the area where I volunteer as a Coastwatcher - well it is my model, after all!
  4. You could use 3D printed clamps as I do, available from an on-line model railway building supplier. They have small powerful magnets built in and are really good. See the photo.
  5. Here's the portholes after the PVA has dried. For me it's a lot easier than trying to cut them out from plastic sheet to fit and better looking than backing them with plastic. These particular ones are only as deep as the plastic squares they sit in; the wood behind them is painted black. However, the photo does show up some flaws which I need to sort out!
  6. Progress has been slow the last week or so; planking the hull is taking longer than I expected, so I am pressing on with the deckhouses. I have a spare set of some of the St Canute fittings, so should be able to furnish the wheelhouse with a wheel, binnacle and telegraph as well as the open bridge. Finished the planking on the bridge wings and added a capping rail to them. Also realised my workbench was getting untidy, so build a tool workstation out of some spare pieces of wood that were lying around. It's a 'work in progress', as I have left space to add/rearrange things if I need to. comple
  7. Started on the superstructure, as the hull was damaged; one of the frames broke when I used a little too much force with the pin pusher. I have repaired it, but decided to have some time away from it. The material used is very lightweight and resembles balsa wood; also on the deck houses I've noticed what look like deep scratches after painting a primer coat, which are the grain showing through. Any ideas what the wood might be? The kit is an original version I think, judging by the die-cutting of the major parts.
  8. I decided to ask the current owners about the boat davits; I received a reply this morning - at last the mystery is solved! I'll put a small length of brass rod at the base of the davit and connect the winch to part F622.
  9. Many thanks for the references, the Fowey ones are new to me; surprising how much is available. I was thinking of inserting a small piece of brass rod across each davit towards the base to simulate a hinge, then connect the winch to the tube marked as F622 in the drawing. Looking at the photos of it at Fowey, it didn’t have any davits or boats, so there is another option 😊
  10. Thank you for your encouragement, I will do my best to finish it! Began building the deckhouses today and found some clamps I had bought for making card buildings very useful. They are supplied by a company that produces online card kits for model railway buildings and are 3D printed; they contain small magnets and make sure you have a 90 degree angle at the corners. Due to the age of the kit there is a lot more work to do compared to a more recent products, with printed parts for example. Some of the die-cutting has gone out of alignment, so will have to be corrected. Quite easy as it only ne
  11. Explained to the Admiral, that although my workshop seems full of tools, there is always a need for others.... Waiting now for a pin pusher and a new set of razor saws, so I will take a break from the hull and start on the various fittings and deckhouses etc. It is interesting how Billing uses a variety of materials to create them; for example there are two tall ventilators, made up of a brass tube, cowl, ring and base, a piece of wooden dowel and a plastic base. The plastic items for those who haven't built any of their kits are one sided mouldings; some require assembling to make a 3D item -
  12. I noticed the photo made that last frame look detached from the keel - I will look at it tomorrow and put it right!
  13. I have recently completed Billing Boat’s 50ft Steam Pinnace, (listed as HMS Renown). It was quite a steep learning curve, as it has been many years since I attempted a similar build. I found it much more involved and more satisfying than the average plastic kit. The result is maybe not the most accurate rendering of one of the boats, or up with the efforts of many of the boats on this site, but it’s a start. I purchased a few of their kits whilst working in Saudi Arabia in the 90’s, where I discovered a model shop in the town where I lived. They were a little more expensive than they would hav
  14. Finished it ( I think...); not 100% accurate, but it has been a good learning experience. Changed the hull colour as it looked a little light, so went for Revell’s Lufthansa Blue. Added a few things, a believable steering system, secured the anchor (Billing’s version would lose it if you threw it overboard...), etc. Quite pleased, but the next build will be better - and I will do a build log as well.
  15. I’ve noticed that many printed decks do not follow prototype ship building rules regarding margin planks/joggling, so maybe they should be planked as a matter of course? I am building Billings H.M.S. Renown’s Pinnace and used it as my first attempt at margin planks etc. (Only to find out the deck was covered in Corticene - I must spend more time on research next time!)
  16. Covered up the planking with some good quality white card and gave it a coat of Tamiya 'Hull Red'. Looks a bit dark, may just change it to Brick Red... Found some Humbrol Dark blue (No25) for the hull. The learning curve continues.... In the photo the bulwarks are just placed on the model to see the effect of the colours together; the deck does need another coat and the seating area to finish off.
  17. Thank you Roger. Looking at what few photos I have found, they seem to confirm the Corcetine covered deck. I missed that when deciding how to do the deck and scratched my head for a while as to how I was going to plank it. I decided to abandon the curved planks as used on the restored RN pinnace and went with using a margin plank and joggling the rest. As I lack experience building wooden boats, I found that I had sanded one side of the hull more than the other by a few mm, so the plank layout was asymmetric! At least converting it to Corcetine will eliminate that error... The photos of
  18. I am building the Billings 50ft Steam Pinnace, which I am finishing as one from HMS Iron Duke, on which my grandfather served during the 1920’s. Does anyone know what colours it would be painted? Just a normal working boat, not the Admiral’s Barge. There doesn’t seem to be a lot of info on the famous internet...
  19. Congratulations Dan. I have the same 'kit' here, discovered it at the back of my workshop while tidying up.. I started my own thread about this model a week or so ago and decided to complete it as a decoration piece as, (a) buying all the extras to make it accurate would be better invested in buying a decent kit of the Victory and (b) it will good practice for me in planking etc. (Currently working on Billings Steam Pinnace and my first efforts required filler!). My mother-in-law gave me the subscription to the Victory back in the early 2000's as a Christmas present; she past away a few years
  20. Forgot to say, I’m on the Isle of Wight, UK...
  21. Hello, I’ve made a lot of plastic models in my time and in the last few years have also returned to to model railways. During my time working in the Middle East I tried my hand at wooden boats. For all the reasons that newbies fail, I acheived a couple of results, both from Billings kits - a completed hull and one with a little beyond bulkheads on the keel and some bad planking. From the store where I found these, came several other Billings kits; although a little more expensive than back in the UK, the fittings were included free. They sit in my workshop to this day like Sirens tempting me
  22. Having read through this build so far, I feel inspired to dig out my own part built B E. I started it many, many years ago when working in the Middle East; up to then I had been building plastic kits and approached it in the same vein... How wrong I was! Now older and wiser, (maybe...), I will have another attempt. I hear IPA is good for unsticking PVA joints, so it will be unglueing and doing it a little more carefully this time. There is still the Billings Steam Pinnace to finish - the hull is done, just figuring out how to plank the deck; on the real thing the planks were curved following t
  23. I have made models most of my life, but rarely wooden boats and I am currently building Billings 50ft Steam Pinnace, ( sold as as HMS Renown). After doing some research I have found that the deck is planked in a different manner to the kit's plans. I realise that the kit's way of doing things is not an accurate one, so I want to follow real practice. As seen in the photo, the planks curve away from a king plank following the line of the bulwarks. My question is, what is the best way of doing it? I am guessing, lay the king plank, then starting at the outside, steam and pin the other planks. An
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