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AndrewW

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About AndrewW

  • Birthday October 19

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    QLD, Australia

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  1. No way ... 5 years since I put this in the too hard basket and got distracted by other endeavours. Well today I pulled the plans back out of the box and I will be slowly working on the masts. Wish me luck!
  2. Ah the flashbacks to my planking procrastination. It is slower, but definitely worth the effort to clamp the wet planks in place until they are dry and then glue them the next day. Your boat is looking good, will keep on eye on her as you continue on.
  3. You don't know how much that means to mean. I am super self-critical of my work so good to hear that someone likes it. Sorry for the slow reply, been on a bit of a procrastination phase, unable to get myself started on the masts and booms, but finally put the instructions and plans down after reading them for the 1000th time and started on the bowsprit today.
  4. Another busy couple of weeks. I have effectively finished the deck level. Still need to build the ship's boat (bought the Jotika one, it is a project all in itself) and scratch build a cradle for it. Would like to have a go at doing the rigging for the cannons and I still need to scratch build some windows for the stern, my first two attempts did not turn out well. There are definitely some places where the paint could do with a touch up, but looking the photos I am seeing stuff that I have never seen with my naked eye. I also know that I need to redo the lashing on the anchors, the current version is definitely temporary. I've made a few mistakes along the way, some corrected, some too far gone and I will just have to live with. But I am ecstatic with the results so far considering this is my first "big" ship. Also, I curse whoever came up with the hatch rings design to a life of eternal scurvy!
  5. Well that was challenging .. but fun. I thought the main whale was going to be difficult but it turned out pretty easy. The decking on the other hand ... I decided to go for a 5 pank pattern with 100mm planks (21 foot scale). Not based on any historical documents, just because it looked "right". I used an HB pencil to colour in the 4 edges of every plank. All up it took me 12 hours (4 hours Friday night and then 8 hours today). I did a bit of trial sanding and it looks amazing, but I didn't want to push my luck after such a long day and will sand the rest tomorrow before assembling the rudder and varnishing the hull. As you can imagine, when it was all done it was very much time to "release the kraken" The keen eyed might notice that the opening for the larger hatch is narrower than on the plans. As others have noted I believe it is too wide and will interfere with the operation of the adjacent cannon, so I have decided to make it a more sensible width. Should help with he ship's boat that I have on order that will need to sit above it as well. Can't wait to get the bulwark rails on to really finish off the look of the deck, but unfortunately the required timber was completely missing from the box. I have ordered some replacement from cornwall model boats, just waiting for it to arrive.
  6. Dan Vadas gave me the required answer on my build thread, reposted here for anyone else who happens to be searching for this info: And a photo of my efforts, will have to look into silver soldering.
  7. Thanks Dan, I think I get what you are saying, time to go and tinker! edit: that seems to have done the trick, thanks for the help.
  8. I posted this question in my HM Brig Supply build thread, but thought I'd put it here for better visibility. I can not for the life of me work out how I am supposed to attach the Caldercraft supplied deadeye strops to the top of the chain plate. I have searched for hours and can't find any images of Caldercraft style items, so any help would me massively appreciated.
  9. Things are coming along nicely, inner bulwarks are painted, gun port surrounds, port windows and upper rails installed. Now I've hit a snag. The last thing I need to install in preparation for varnishing the hull is the main whale. I am not 100% confident that I have it in the right position, and I want to make sure that it is in the right location so that the deadeye straps will sit properly. And this is my snag. How do I attach the deadeye strops? (I hope I'm using the correct terminology). If you look in the photo, I have no idea how to connect the open end of the deadeye strop to the end of the brass etched piece. Any help greatly appreciated.
  10. Thanks for the detailed reply Doug. I've just spent the last 2 hours looking at all your photos and cross-referencing with the instructions and plans. It is amazing how many parts are shown on the plans and not referenced at all in the instructions other than the parts list. Thankfully your build is so clean that I can really tell how these extra part go together. Painted the first coat of red on the inside of the bulwarks today, came up pretty nice. Photos in a couple of days.
  11. Hi Doug, Love your work, you are my inspiration and my reference when it comes to colours and painting of my Supply. I was looking at your photos on the first post again today and noticed that it looks as though you varnished the entire hull before applying the white paint. Is that correct? I wasn't sure if I should paint on the raw timber or over varnish. On a test piece I did the paint seems to take to the varnish, but would appreciate your feedback. Andrew.
  12. I've been really slack in updating this build log. Since my last post, I have completed the first and second planking, removed the inner bulwark tabs, planked the inner bulwarks and cut the gun ports. I realise that my planking is incorrect, I was following the written instructions and the plans, but it wasn't until I was almost done that I found an awesome article that explained the proper way to do stealers etc. So I have pointy, triangular stealers but thankfully once I have done the final filling and sanding and paint the hull I don't think it is going to be really noticeable. I have learnt my lesson for the next ship though! The other lesson I learnt is that I sanded my filler blocks too "flat" at the bow. I needed to leave them rounder to give the bow a fuller shape and to give a smoother run for the planking.
  13. Tip: I was reading another build log where there was an issue with the cutouts in the decks not being big enough for the bulkheads to fit. I experienced the same issue and was all ready to trim the holes to make them larger, when I realised they were actually exactly the right size but looked too small due to the curve of the bulkheads. The solution was to line the holes up on one side of the ship and then incredibly carefully and with lots of sweating bend the deck along the centre line until it could be slotted behind the bulkheads on the opposite side and the slid down into place.
  14. And so it begins ... I got the kit out and started dry-fitting the hull components. Before you now it I had fitted the bulkheads to the false keel and also fitted the decks! There was a bit of time head-scratching as the written instructions differed from the pictorial instructions on sheet 1. Written instructions say to attach the bulkheads and decks then attach the bow, keel and stern piece, whereas the pictorial instructions say to fit the bow, keel and stern piece first. In the end I followed the written instructions but I did take the opportunity to cut the keel and stern piece while I had easy access to the false keel. Time will tell (tomorrow) as to whether I made the correct design when it comes to attaching these parts. Hint: The written instructions say to attach all three deck pieces before attaching the stern patterns. In this case I followed the pictorial instructions and did the stern patterns first otherwise it would have been very difficult to fit them after the aft deck. Apologise for the rubbish iPhone photos in poor light. 5 hours down, many more to go Tomorrow: Attaching the keel components, sourcing timber for and installing filler blocks and sanding/shaping the bulkheads ready for the first lot of planking.
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