MESSIS

Oh.... it occurred  to me you was serious! 😅

Hi alex,

Thank you for your comments. 

I do think of using oarsmen and ofcourse a captain and a pilot....  but what do you have inmind?

Christos

Lights on

Very interesting gentlemen! The easiest thing to do  is then: "Go safe. Dont put your build in any danger. So dont use bee wax. Go for micro-chrystalline... " 

After reading what I have just wrote, makes me think... I could open an advertising agency lol 😆

Ok John, thank you for clarifying this to me. Its the hydrogen, carbon and oxygen bondings that are varying, the ph not. Still why some people still talk of the acidity that the bee wax may on a long time term damage the threads? That means that some times we get ph values under 7, or even slightly under 7, but still a 6.4 or even a 6.8 ph can on a long time basis damage the cotton thread I suppose.

Christos

@allanyed great! So I gues it can be ph7 or it can also not be. As said: "the compounds and their ratios vary from species to species,".

So with the micro-chrystalline wax am on the safe side.

@thibaultron thank you.

@Chuck Seiler thank you Chuck. Do you do something else after applying the wax, flame or any other heatting, or is the product you suggested, which I can get easily from amazon uk,  soft enough so as not to need any further handling?

Waxing or not waxing the thread? Waxing ofcourse offers a better standing of the rope and an easier binding. But wax brings dust on the rope, makes the texture of good quality model rope to look dull and flat....  and lastly there is always the danger of acidity on the long term.

So am very sceptical if is better not to use wax. And if use wax am not sure which kind of wax is better. Normal candle wax oris it better to use the nice soft furniture bee wax?

@Mike Dowling thank you very much my friend for your precious advice. I havent yet... so your advice came on time.

https://www.rigging-ropes.com/

Is in Germany. Have used the products twice. Great quality... great service,  reasonable prices.

Lifeboat...  mmm I did enjoyed it.

@Bedford 13 mm  long and 1.5 max. outer diameter.

@Mike Dowling thank you my friend. Yes originaly I have used 5 mm blocks... far to big.

Then I could not buy smaller from Syren because of the covid post office delays. So it was trouble until I have found these 3mm blocks, which I agree with you is within the scale.

Arms ready. Cannon rigging finished. 

Improoving cannon rigging scale

Tiller and ruder inplace

@ERS Rich thank you. Very sensible, "plastik" cant be an option on a wooden ship! Am experimenting now but just with stains and shellac (in my workshop nitrocellulose), wax isnt wrong either.

@wefalck Eberhard, thank you. I do use nitrocellulose, and am doing that in order to seal and fine sand the wood. I never have used it to colour masts.

Thank you for guiding me, am going to try a few techniques,  your guidance using nitrocellulose and then a pine stain.  Am also going to use some light  pine stain with or without a dash of honey stain. At the top of the stain am thinking  a pass of matt varnish.

Thank you Jan. What is whiepe on poly?

Christos

@ERS Rich and @amateur thank you both very much! Indeed your knowledge  and comments are a breakthrough in my thoughts how to go about.

Thank you again guys

Christos

Ps @amateur do you think I should oil them after staining?

@ERS Rich no I believe this is not the colour of masts. Its too orange... how do you go about this issue with your work?

Have tried to get real mast colour. I believe pine or fir should be pale yellow with a dash of orange or honey. Still havent succeeded to do so. 

This stain (honey)I have used has given me some variants but still not a convincing mast colour. I did gave it on top a matt varnish... but....

Would appreciate any comments or guidance.

Some progress, but small.

Name plate andpainting the stand. Same ciolours used on the ship  ochre red, mat black and gold.