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Posts posted by tlevine
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Bob, your response is exactly what I needed. As I mentioned earlier, this project is still in the planning stage. As with Swallow, I was captivated by the looks of the boat. Details to be worked out as I went along. My hope is to build a reasonably accurate recreation but if necessary, I will fully plank her and hide my errors.
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I am in the process of developing the next build, Glad Tidings, from Chapelle's plans. Half of the frames are connected to each other by floors. The other half have no visible means of support. On the plan it states "Floors drifted to keel and deadwood." What is meant by "drifts"?
Does anyone know how the remaining frames would be secured to the keel? The frames are so lightweight (1.75" x 2.5") that I would think bolting them to the keel at the foot would compromise the frame.
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Preac fence still in production? I assume this is an aftermarket product since the company no longer exists.
- billocrates and mtaylor
- 2
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Don't worry about the frame tops at this point. They can always be levelled later, when there is no risk of damaging them. As I recall, I used a flat disc sander on my Dremel to bring them to their final height. Looking good.
- mtaylor, Old Collingwood, VTHokiEE and 1 other
- 4
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She is absolutely stunning. Congratulations! What is the next project going to be?
- WalrusGuy, hollowneck, billocrates and 5 others
- 7
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As there is little camber, I took a 2" x 4" piece of 1/4" plywood and glued two different grits of sandpaper to it for fairing. That eliminates the round-over problem. Looking good.
- davec, Old Collingwood and VTHokiEE
- 3
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I frame out the gunport before applying the hull planking. You can use a stick, cut to the correct dimensions, to act as a template to build the gunport around.
- Keith Black, mtaylor and thibaultron
- 3
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Recently, I have been taking jewelry-making courses. The sole purpose was to learn how to solder correctly. I previously used the same paste as you do, Greg, having had the same problem with solder shifting out of position. Now I use medium or hard silver sheet solder and flux almost exclusively. I discovered that my biggest problem was lack of patience. The metal need to be heated slowly and from a distance. This allows the flux to dry, holding the solder chips in place. At that point, "come in for the kill" and heat the piece just enough to allow the solder to flow.
- dvm27, hollowneck, James G and 4 others
- 7
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Incredible is the only word I can use to describe it.
- mtaylor and Knocklouder
- 2
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Fantastic work, Chuck!
- FrankWouts, druxey, Edwardkenway and 2 others
- 5
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Nicely done. When you build that next model, consider replacing the kit wood and spiling the hull planking.
- flutlo6180 and Cathead
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To install the rail, I used regular spring clamps, with the jaws on either side of the hull planking. I placed a piece of scrap on top of the rail and pushed the clamps down so they dug into the scrap. As there is no tension on the rail, after a few minutes it is good to go.
- Cathead and Ryland Craze
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Great reworking! I'm excited to see the new runs of planking.
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Thanks to everyone for your support. Greg, rigging her is not on the horizon. I already have three models that are incomplete because I abandoned their rigging. As to what's next, the base will take a bit of time. I have been considering Chapelle's Glad Tidings as a change of century. It only took the Smithsonian a year to send me the plans. Their excuse was that their copier was broken (and, no, I did not suggest Office Max).
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Drifts
in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
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Thanks, Bob. I will keep an open mind when construction begins.