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  1. At last with a little help from the Flyer Swiss Seamans Recruitment Agency, I was able to organise a Captain and crew to help get the Pickle build completed. Sadly, their previous voyage had been an Antarctic expedition and they all arrived at the dockside looking a lot worse for wear and as can be seen, still suffering from a lot of frostbite. The crew appeared to be happy to be back on dry land and, as was their wont, immediately took to heavy drinking and fighting amongst them selves. The new crew then broke into the wood stores and made a right mess> The lookout kept watch a
  2. Back to completing the main mast. As I mentioned back in March in post 51, I had made several attempts to create the hoops for the main driver sail and was really not happy with the results. After a further unsuccessful attempt, still using diluted wood glue for the job (I mean after all, paper was wood once so it should be OK!!) I found some PVA Paper glue and tried it with that. That worked . . . . . except that I couldn't get them off my dowel and had to resort to cutting them off which did rather spoil things!! OK, so one last attempt. This time I would some kitchen foil around
  3. Glad you like it - hope it works for you if you try my method. If you find anything missing / confusing please let me know
  4. Many thanks Ron. that's a really useful step that I hadn't thought about!
  5. In the middle of building my first wooden plank-on-plank model (H.M. Pickle) all was going well until I came across the wonderful instructions “two copper eyelets can now be fitted to the main mast with their respective blocks”. Great I thought, and how am I supposed to do that? So after a lot of (not very good) research, I thought I had worked out what to do and so proceeded to ‘attach’ my first block. Result? Terrible. Further research followed and in the end I worked out how to do this and as suggested by a couple of people have now created this 'Super-beginners guid
  6. I spend a few days attempting to master the black art of Block Stropping and whipping. In the end, and referring to various comments and videos I succeeded in completing my first Block. I used one small vice to hold one set of tweezers holding a block and my 'jewellers stand and crocodile clips to hold the eye. I used dabs of white wood-glue to attach the Stropping rope to the block and then 3/4 small strips of masking tape to hold the ropes in thier right place. I then attached my whipping twine with another piece of masking tape, then made a loop in the othe
  7. Many thanks for all your responses. I certainly like the idea of a pin/nail in the foot of the mast. It does seem to be the best solution. End of term report "The pupil must pay more attention to the details of his work. He shows promise but there is a long way to go".!!!
  8. Thanks for your reply. I like your suggestion about checking the mast before decking and planking which is what I thought I had done! As mentioned, the mainmast slots in perfectly. I can feel it being held on all sides but for some reason the foremast just doesn't want to sit as it should - and I'm not about to cut a hole in the deck to find out what is wrong!!! I have a couple of ideas to see if I can pack the hole below but it won't be easy!
  9. Hi all, I'm getting to the exciting part of building my first model H.M. Pickle After a little fine sanding on deck, I was able to seat the main mast and it sits firm and true. However, I've just made a start on the foremast and although it sits at the correct angle (bow to stern) and is deep enough according to the plans, it is not sitting in anything and is easy to move around, especially port to starboard. I know that the rigging will tighten the mast up and stabilise it, but has anyone any other advise? I've seen other modellers making chocks for their masts but don't
  10. Fitting Blocks and Eyelets So after finishing the mast build, the next instructions told me to "fit two eyelets . . . . together with their respective blocks". Great, wonderful. But how was I supposed to do that? No idea! I was a little cross at this point. So far the fantastic very detailed build instructions had been a real help in my new hobby. Sure, I had some steep learning curves, but that was to be expected but as a long as I read the instructions carefully, the method was there. . . . . and suddenly I was left with 'fit the blocks' Thanks for nothing! OK
  11. Completing the Main Mast Back at the shipyard, as per the instructions, I shaped the lower main topmast, then tapered the top section and after drilling the two sections were pinned together, this time everything looked straight! Next I had fun and games learning what a 'Fid' was, then I made one and after drilling the appropriate hole dry fitted it. Then it was on to making the Main lower top trestletrees that wasn't as easy as I thought it was going to be. I needed a lot of test fitting and fine filing before everything fitted but we got there in the end.
  12. Vielen Dank Joachim, Ich werde ein besuch unternehmen!!! Bis Bald John P.S. (For non--German speakers, I simply said (well, I hope so!!) many thanks and I will go for a visit!!
  13. Thinking that I am still interested in attempting to make sails for Pickle, in the next step, I wanted attempt to craft some Sail Hoops for the Main Driver. I had seen them on my real-life reference ship Ruth that I was lucky enough to find in a local Ships festival in Gloucester England. Here's a shot of Ruth and a close-up of the sail hoops I had been inspired by Flyer and Blue Ensign and how they had created the hoops for their models, so putti
  14. Having reviewed my attempt at my mainmast I decided that it wasn't good enough. The method of connecting the two mast sections might be good enough for the excellent modellers at Jotika models or the Mr Longridge of "The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" and Victory scratch-build models but, as suggested by Jason (Beef Wellington) and the method used by others, I decided to purchase some new dowel and start again!! Down to my local DIY shop and I rummaged through their 6mm dowelling before eventually finding a piece that was decent enough and wasn't bent by 20-30%!! Back
  15. Hi all, Having seen examples of the use of model figures on ship builds, I've realised they seem to be the best way for gauging realistic distances and set-up, for example in boom foot-ropes or ratline spacing etc. etc. I've searched the web and found a couple of examples (e.g. Cornwall Boats or Mantua) but I never seem to find the right figures. Has anyone got a good source for such things (UK preferably)?? Thanks!
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