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About garyshipwright

  • Birthday 06/22/1955

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  1. Hello guys. Can anyone tell me where I can get belts that are the same type that came with the Preac saw? Maybe some time in the very very near future I probably get the upgrade on the Preac saw but at the moment I figure it is time to find a new belt for her. Thanks folks . Gary
  2. Hi Kevin. Like you said it takes a lot longer to set the band saw up and about 30 seconds to cut the material. What I want to do is set up a small band saw as a dedicated saw for cutting metal copper, brass and others down to workable sizes, when it is a little on the thick side, so I don't have to spend ten minutes changing the tool over to do a 30 second cut. I also think doing this will keep the cut metal more square for working. The motor on the Preac runs, its just really under powered and has a hard time cutting anything. Figure that the upgrade will at least make it able to cut 3/32 thick materal and will be a dedicated saw for doing grating. My Byrnes saw is the real work horse and cut's most of the ship wood with the inca and Grizzly cutting down the larger pieces for the Byrnes . Gary
  3. With the new upgrade on the Preac, will it be able to cut 1/8 thick brass? Am looking for a good saw for cutting copper and brass and the upgrade may be just what am looking for. I know, you ask why not just use a jeweler's saw. Its a little slow and am not getting any younger. Thanks. Gary
  4. Hi druxey. You are total right sir and models do show the bolsters sitting back from the edge a inch or two which I believe was done to make the models look good. I also think it was done with most model's, guess you could say the model builders used what we call today a little artistic freedom. ; o) At least that is what I have seen when I look at most of them. Which to me looks a lot better then having it stuck out over the cheek it self. On a different note, with it sticking out a inch or two over the edge, seem's it would help the anchor rope with the bending and protect the cheek it self from being rubbed away and weaking it. Any way thats my way of looking at it. I did find the infomation on this in a contract of 1782, which was also used to build the Bellerophon of 1805 and the book Scantlings of the Royal Navy ships page 224. The contract and the book both say that the bolsters should come up at least two thirds and to project the cheeks 3/4 of a inch contract, and the book gives it 1 3/4. Any way thats my story and am probably stick to doing them with a little artistic freedom, looks better. ;o) I added a photo of the Warrior If any one is interested in seeing it. Gary
  5. Thanks Johann and Mark. Coming from you guys, your word's just made my day a whole lot better. Gary
  6. Mark so far I have not found any specification for it. What I did find is one on the bolsters. It says that it is to go up to the middle of the Hawse hole, and go I believe it was either a inch/ inch and half over the edge of the lower cheek. Figure that it couldn't be to thin, the bolsters that is, so figure that maybe 5 or 6 inches thick on that and what ever is left over would be the liner,which would be 6 inches. Not set in stone good sir that is untill some one figures it out. I set the bolster there but still have to thin it down a bit from the top of it to the edge of the cheek. Gary
  7. I do believe that they make a laser for it but don't think it is very powerful. gary
  8. Thanks Mark. Do believe what am going to get is the Carbide 3d Shapeoko xxl robust cnc router. It should be interesting and fun using it and making thing with it. From what i see on the internet seems that you are 100 percent right about it the Glowforge that is. Gary
  9. Hi Mark. If am following you the liner is really two pieces which was around 6 inches thick in scale, each piece being around 3 inches thick. Have not added the bolsters yet which will take up the other 5 to 6 inches of the lower cheek. The sculpted is easy to do when you make it out of two pieces like I did putting the sculpted edge in to the second liner piece. Seems the books don't give much info on them. Gary
  10. Happy New Year Mark and Jack. Your information is very very helpful. Jack thats ok, nothing to be sorry for. As far as the CNC and 3D laser Printer the two am looking at is the Glowforge 3Dlaser Printer and the Carbide 3DShapeoko XL Robust CNC router kit. They are expensive but I still have time to figure out which one and research the in and out of them. Thanks guys and once again thank you and Happy New Year. Gary
  11. Happy New year Siggi. Glad you have feeling a lot better now and once again working in the ship yard. Gary
  12. Hi Jack. Thank you sir and should not be much of a problem making a figure head for Alfred and will keep this in mind. I figure getting the CNC or 3D laser printer is for making other items that I can maybe give away at christmas time along with making other parts and pieces for my model building. Thank you sir very much. Gary
  13. Thanks every one for the kind comments and Happy New Year. It means a lot and hopfully I can get a lot more done. On a different note am thinking about getting a CNC or a 3D laser printer and was wondering if any one has any ideal of what to get when it comes to them? Figure it would be a nice retirement toy and who knows maybe make a some nice wood gift's for the kids and my newest grand daughter who is post to be here in Feb. Once again thanks guys its really nice to be back. Gary

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