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Posts posted by Heronguy

  1. Hi Lou.  The ship’s boat (cutter  part no L130) was the only extra (other than a rotary cutter that I’m concerned will never float!).  No little people.  I had ordered a set barrels and a cutter (different version that used a moulded hull to form the ribs on).


    It will be interesting to me to find out which cutter (excluding the rotary 🤪) turns out to be easiest to assemble.  I’ve had ship’s boats  from Model Expo, Dusek and Master Korabel so far.  Two of them were fun to build.







  2. 5 minutes ago, BobG said:

    I have the Lady Isabella and would like to find out more about these Zulu fishing vessels. Do you have any good resources that you could recommend?

    I was just gifted with a set of blueprints for the Zulu Muirneag.  Plans were drawn by Harold Underhill in the 1950's.  His book "Plan-on-Frame Models" has reduced version of three of the plans.  I can't use the blueprint set so they're listed in Traders... One source of detail.

  3. 8 hours ago, Chuck said:

    Use a thin wood sheets so they wont flex when you use them as spacers.


    with those spacers in position and no sills at all,  try tour template again and see how the stern frames look.  If you need to adjust them,   Then you can donso at that time.

    Thanks for the advice.  I had cut the frame guides from some 3/64" sheet but couldn't get them to stay in place even with rubber band pressure.  Clearly then 'll have to unglue the ST-CD upright and adjust the slots until things more closely match the framing guide. 

  4. Now I have run into some difficulty and would benefit from advice!


    I'll preface my problem with a reminder that I had decided to try to scratch build.  To me that meant milling my own wood and using Chuck's plans to cut out all the pieces rather that using the lasercut components.  I did purchase the chapter 1 laser cut material as a reference.  So far I have used it only to compare my scratch bits with the precision ones.  (aside : as I look at quarter gallery description in Chuck's build log and the more advanced builds in this group I'm questioning my hubris at attempting this - oh well)


    To the stern.


    I slapped it together with the hope that things would lie just right.  A quick visual inspection showed that ST-A on the port side was a little low but maybe that didn't matter (I've subsequently fixed that).


     I printed the stern frame guide to use as a visual check on the stern uprights - printed on clear acetate so I could put it on the outer surface.


    Things didn't look too good!

    Printed again on paper so I could glue it to be inside surface for an easier view.




    The middle three uprights I could coax into alignment with the draft quite easily but the outer one are very rigid and not able to be coaxed with pressure.  (BTW this image is before I fixed ST-A(port))


    I figured I was going to have to remove ST-CandD from both port and starboard, change the angles of the slots in bulkheads 28&29 and iterate until I got a better visual.


    However before starting that I thought to try the stern window guides to see how well they fit.  They weren't bad so I I tried the upper sills.  Here I had another disappointment.





    Using the laser cut sills to check it appears the the port side fit nicely but the outer two on the starboard side don't. As Chuck describes in the chapter 1 notes the guides will fall out if the sills need a bit of tweaking. When I see how far out the starboard ST-C&D upright is I'm a a loss for what I should do to try to salvage what's here.


    Advice gratefully accepted!




  5. 2 hours ago, Louie da fly said:

    Sorry you haven't been able to  the instructions so far - I see masa might be able to provide them. You might also care to look at 


    which though it's of the earlier version of Bluenose II might be of help to you building the later version.



    I have scans of instructions for my version of Bluenose II ans well as the later version from Artesania Latina. That I can send.  



  6. 13 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:

    what did you use to anchor the dead eyes?

    The kit instructions simply suggest attaching a small eye pin with the twisted wire holding the deadeye. The stem of the eye pin is inserted into a drilled hole in the rail and affixed with glue.  Once again I had to use CA to bond the wire to the wood. (The chainplates mounted on the hull are not connected to the deadeye - just simulating the practice on the actual ship) I’ve “tested” each one with a good tug to see if they may hold when under tension from shrouds and don’t expect too many challenges there!  A long time from now at the current rate!!! 

  7. Whilst plodding on on coppering the hull of the Stefano (also from MarisStella) I have started the Batelina as side project.  Very nice kit with very nice wood.  I’m enjoying the build.


    The 2 or 3 Batelina’s I‘ve seen on MSW all look terrific.  Yours is very handsome. Well Done!


  8. Good news, bad news and good news.


    Good news - The acetone soaking freed up bulkhead U from the CA glue.  I was able to use the rubber mallet "coaxer" to reset the bulkhead to a better position.  IMG_5456.jpeg.f09b6a5081c54194712789b5aa59e5c9.jpeg


    Bad news - The coaxing (alright - hammering!) that moved the bulkhead also caused the stem to break off (pretty cleanly along the rabbet strip)




    Good news - With the stem temporarily removed it was a fine time to improve the fairing of the bow formers since it was much easier to get good angles on it. (if I were to do it again I would consider whether the stem could be left off the hull until the fairing was complete).


    Furthermore since Jack's carvings had arrived I had a chance to check the fit.  I needed a fair bit of additional sanding to get the figurehead to seat properly.  It was much easier to accomplish with the stem separate from the hull!  


    Definitely the mis-aligned bulkhead turned out to be a silver lining  problem.


  9. 2 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

    One of the mistakes in my build was that my frames didn’t smoothly transition into the rabbet. I think I see some areas where this could occur to you as well (Frame A and Frame 4). You may want to consider building out the lower area of those frames to make the rabbet transition smooth.

    I think you are quite right.  Some refinements are called for!

  10. I made a couple of errors - hopefully recovered.


    Here's the current state.



    I've had to do some shims on frame 1


    and on G1




    I didn't place the frame separators in convenient locations to allow the engineers square to mark the upper and lower positions of the wale. Thus the positioning is a bit crude.  I guess I'll find out if that creates problems in the planking!!!  I read ahead but didn't realize that the access from the plan marked wale would be blocked by the spacers.  I see from Toni's pics that she located her spacers nearer to the tops of the frames.


    I used dividers to mark the top of the wales where I could only use the square to mark the bottom position.




  11. Although I'm not getting much time in the shipyard I have been slowly pushing on.  Much of the fairing is done to my standards so I will probably do some more to try to improve my standards a bit!


    I have run into a "challenge" however.  While fairing the hull was upside down.  I had noticed that bulkhead U needed a bit of shimming up and had started to apply some strips to build it up a bit.  When I right-sided the hull to start running the battens along the top of the gunports I finally noticed that bulkhead U was not fully seated in the BF.  It wasn't properly glued down.  It seemed like a s simple fix so out with the rubber mallet to coax it down a bit.  It looked pretty good so I ran some CA into the seams.  Problem should have been solved.  Somehow - I still haven't quite decided when this fix went off the rails but - the bulkhead, now well glued, slipped upward again.  


    There is about 1-2 mm slip.  I am now contemplating  which of 2 courses of action to take 1- try to soak the joint with acetone to free the bulkhead again - reset if, and make sure it doesn't slip before the glue sets or 2- leave it alone, fair the hull with there shims in place and there deal with the deck level "bump" .  I don't like 2 very much because of the amount to sanding required on t his annoyingly tough plywood as well as the camber of the deck to get right especially near the edges where the bulkheads interfere with the sanding process.  So I'll try 1 and if I can't get the joint free then I'll try plan 2.  Sigh.






    Deck level




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