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About ahb26

  • Birthday 02/19/1951

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Acton, Massachusetts
  • Interests
    Recently retired. Reading, cycling, attending to an old British sports car (Lotus Elan) that has been in the family since 1967, keeping my wife and two cats happy.

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  1. Thanks so much for the kind words! I spent a lot of time looking through photos of full-size boats built by CLC customers. Many builders put a lot of effort into appearance details such as inlays, exotic woods, and special paint. Some of these boats are works of art that I couldn't hope to match, but the basic shape is pleasing enough.
  2. Some photos of the completed Northeaster Dory. It was a fun project, especially since the construction is identical to that of the full-size kit. I lost track of the time spent on it once I finished painting and moved on to details - about 26 hours. I think you could spend a little more than the advertised 10+ hours and make a nice decorative piece - or detail to your heart's content and spend much more time. I'm glad I spent the extra time on the details I added.
  3. Well, a lot has happened since my last visit, and the Northeaster Dory seems to have ended up in the wrong era. I'll see about sorting that out. I was to the point where I had to confront the sail. Being somewhat intimidated, I found ways to procrastinate. I worked on a fiendishly difficult 1,000-piece jigsaw puzzle - then decided I needed to read Shakespeare's eight history plays covering Richard II through Richard III - I'm half way through that. We have other things going on as well, but finally I selected some fabric from my in-house sail
  4. Putting a few things together. The instructions call for simple cleats for the halyard and downhaul bent up from copper wire. I made some from scrap wood instead. I also made up oarlock risers, based on optional items offered by CLC. Two cleats mounted to the rails in the primary rowing position, with oars - The square section of the oar between the grip and the oarlock is a feature of oars developed by CLC. It serves as a counterweight to give the oar better balance. I will detail the oars with a collar. The oarlocks seem a bit large for the oar; I based thei
  5. More fun with the soldering iron. The two blocks were formed from the same strip metal I used for the rudder fittings. I had some difficulty drilling the holes for the axle in the right spot in both the metal and the sheave. Not thrilled with these, I may try again. I formed the oarlocks from .04" brass wire (another Bowdoin leftover, also used in the blocks as axles) and soldered the joints. The oars are supplied in the kit - the one on top has been sanded, the other is a work in progress.
  6. Chris, I hope you'll keep a build log for your 1:1 scale canoe kit. I had thought a lot about how to hang the rudder, and finally the time arrived to do it. The kit instructions have you make up four eyebolt-like gudgeons from copper wire, two for the rudder and two for the transom, and skewer them with a length of wire. Quick and easy, but the real boat uses a traditional (if utilitarian) pintle-and-gudgeon arrangement, and I wanted to do that instead. I lucked out in that my Bowdoin kit included a length of brass tube and a similar length of brass rod that fit the tube, neithe
  7. Thanks for the comments, the continued interest, and the likes. It's good to see other members are working on CLC boats or at least interested in them. I finally built the star knobs that hold the mast partner to its cleats. They're made up of scrap wood, beheaded #4 brass machine screws, and little collars I made by reducing a section of dowel, drilling out its interior, and cutting two slices. I was amazed they didn't break in the process. The instructions for the model say to glue the partner to its cleats, but I wanted it to be removable as it is in the full-size
  8. Inwales and Outwales The kit does not include inwales, but I had some lengths of 1/8"x1/16" mahogany left over from Bowdoin that I thought would look nice. I sanded them, stained with natural stain, and varnished before cutting them to length and gluing them on using carpenter's glue and clamps. It was difficult to align the strips precisely with the top edges of the planks, and I had to redo a couple of them. The supplied outwales are approx. 3/32" square mahogany strips, and gluing them on is a challenge. I started with a short section at the bow attached with CA, holding
  9. If you haven't already done so, you should download the lug rig installation guide (for the full-size boat) from the CLC website. It'll give you all the details you could want about installing and rigging, details which are nonexistent in the model instructions. Unfortunately, there is no corresponding standalone guide for the standard sloop rig (although there is a guide for its upgrade kit) - they must be part of the full construction manual. That manual can be had (paper or PDF) for $15 and would probably be a worthwhile purchase for a modeler interested in maximizing detail.
  10. Progress has slowed a bit as I have been applying seemingly endless coats of gloss wipe-on varnish to the thwarts and other bare wood surfaces. It's my first time working with this stuff and it seems very difficult to get a high-gloss finish, but it's getting better. I purchased the balanced-lug sail option, which consists of a sail plan and a small sheet of parts to make up the mast partner. This is a removable piece that supports the mast above its step. (The standard sloop rig uses shrouds and a forestay, but there are none for the lug rig.) Here is how it looks trial-fitted
  11. Jim, there will be more pitfalls to come, I'm sure - there always are. But so far things have gone pretty well. I applied the exterior color over the last couple of days. First the accent color, which goes on the top plank. In this photo, the color has been sprayed and the top plank masked in preparation for the rest of the paint. The paint is "Nissan Orange Mist," more of a copper color actually. (I originally got it to simulate copper plating on the hull of my "Joe Lane"). Next the main hull color: This is also engine paint, "Chrysler Blue." I never us
  12. Moving along - I ran a bead of glue along the plank overlaps, working from the outside and trying hard not to let glue run over the plank surfaces. I may have been too careful; some of the overlaps opened up later and had to be re-glued. Next I removed the wire stitches - easier to do than I expected - and filled the holes with MH ReadyPatch. Then I sanded - and filled - and sanded - and filled, ad nauseum. Finally got to the point where I needed to get a coat of primer on. Since I want to varnish the transom, I masked it off inside and out. A light coat of primer made
  13. Kurt, that is good to know. Thanks! All the planks are now installed. I did run into a few glitches. The aft ends of the three upper planks are drilled to be stitched to the transom. However, since the wire has to be passed around the end of the plank, there is too much wood between the hole and end to allow a tight stitch. This is not the case with the planks in the instructions and video; at some point, the plank was lengthened beyond the hole, perhaps to be sure the plank extended beyond the transom. (The first plank does not have this issue and b
  14. This boat is built using CLC's "LapStitch" method, which you can read about here. The planks are held in their relative positions by loops of copper wire until they can be epoxied together and to the frames, at which point the loops are cut and removed. The first step in this stage of model construction is to cut a bunch of 1" pieces of wire, which will be bent into U shapes and used to connect adjoining edges - initially, of the garboard plank and the bottom. Tightening the loops brings the planks up into their intended shape. The square-ended pliers (red grips)
  15. Gluing the puzzle joints is a two-handed operation, leaving no hand for the camera. There is a small amount of slop in the joint so the pieces need to be held in alignment and flat to the working surface (protected by wax paper). I bought the CA and accelerator from CLC, along with disposable tips for the glue. The tips taper down to almost capillary size, allowing the glue to be run into the joint with little or no mess - once you get the hang of it. A spritz of accelerator and the plank can be set aside. I did all eight in reasonably quick succession. These are the
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