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Richvee

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Everything posted by Richvee

  1. So I have started on the tackle and pendants. After studying the MS plans, the rigging specs booklet from New Bedford, it seems the Kate Cory's pendants were 8"c tarred hemp and not chain. So I used Syren .045 black rope, and 3.5mm bulls eyes for the thimbles and lashed it to the main mast. This illustration I found on line was extremely helpful for me in understanding cutting in tackle. To the left is the lower block setup with the blubber hook. The toggle strap is similar. The second is the upper block configuration, and the third is a chain option for the toggle rig. The far right shows the falls and guys. I added the bull's eyes for thimbles on the pendants and lashed it to the main mast as shown in the plans and described in the rigging Specs. I've made one set of upper blocks, without the guy block strapped in yet. Chuck's 9/32 block kits add a nice touch to add detail to these 17 1/2" blocks used on the KC. Next up the lower double block. and figuring out how I'm going to represent the linkage between the pendants and the upper block straps as my metal work is no way up to the task of making shackles.
  2. The standing rigging is just about complete. Backstays and royal Forestay still need to be tensioned and cut. I decided to use small bulls eyes for thimbles as my metal working "skills" need a LOT of work. Hope they don't look to oversized. It's amazing what the camera picks up. That drop of glue on the trestle tree looks horrendous, yet hardly visible looking at the model. i'm going to have try to clean that up a bit. Next up I guess is cutting in tackle. Or whaleboats. If I get frustrated trying to rig the tricky cutting in tackle I'll switch over to whaleboats for a spell.
  3. Been a while since I've posted. Spring and summer keep me busy. Work is progressing VERY slowly. Ratlines done and some stays being rigged. Some pics to follow when time allows.
  4. Looking good so far! Good to see another Kate Cory build! I'm going to pull up a seat. Hope you've just been busy and haven't abandoned the build. Life does get in the way. I haven't done much on my Kate Cory since April. I'm in between standing rigging, carving whaleboats, and thinking about starting the cutting in tackle. She's a nice looking ship. If you haven't already, look into the plans and rigging spec booklet that at one time was sold through the New Bedford Whaling museum. Not sure if it's still available, but worth the effort if you can locate a set.
  5. Spring and summer is a slow shipbuilding season for me as my other interest, baseball umpire, take up a good portion of my free time. Bad weather has kept me off the baseball fields, and added some time in the shipyard. Main shrouds rigged. A few loose ends still to be cut off on the starboard side. Grid made from a copy of the plans, and taped to a thin plastic sheet for some stability. Now ready for ratlines. maybe I can get them done before the Northeast joint clubs show in 2 weeks.
  6. I had a small dilemma with the pump just aft of the main mast. The MS plans show a pump pivot secured to the main mast. (See boom rest photo above). The plans from New Bedford has a wooden pivot post in the center of the pump lever. I decided on the later. 3/32 square pivot post, notched to accept a 1/16 square lever sanded round and tapered. I used some split rings I had for the lever straps. I cut them down until they fit fairly snug over the lever with a piece of 24 gauge annealed steel wire hooked to the ring for the pump spear. Wow, those pumps are tiny!
  7. Thanks for the likes everyone. torpedochief- Thanks. I'll try to find them. The set of plans and the rigging booklet that the New Bedford Whaling Museum sells has been invaluable. Detailed rigging specs, great detailed plans of the deck furnishings, Masts, spars, etc. I'm not only enjoying the build, I'm enjoying the history lesson in 19th century whaling that comes along with this build.
  8. Looking at the boom rest, the fitting that comes with the kit seems way oversize. Figured I'd take the snow day and try may hand at making my own. I think it's a bit better than the metal fitting. I'll take it off and paint it up, and ad the iron band. Then the mast will be ready for mounting.
  9. I received an email today from the New Bedford whaling museum. They have put together a data base of American whaling voyages. It is an amazing collection of data. Voyages, logs, crew members, etc. Searchable in many different ways. The data base seems to be huge. I just stared poking around and the info is great to anyone interested in whaling history. Here's a link to the PDF about the data base Whaling History pdf ..And here's the site. The data takes some time to load. Give it a minute. I have just started to scratch the surface of what is avialable here. It's a little tough to navigate, but worth the effort.
  10. Thanks Russ. The deck was almost by accident. Like I said, I did the deck and hull years ago. When I pulled it out again, the deck was badly stained. I sanded it all.I was able to get the quarter deck pretty clean.I wasn't that worried about the fore deck, because I knew it would be mostly covered with the windlass.(It's really too tight up there because back in the day,I didn't shave those front bulwarks enough). I varnished the quarter deck and used a diluted white/grey on the main deck. Adding white and grey washes until I was happy with the color. Then I added a very thin wash of black over everything. Some old model railroading weathering techniques came in handy.
  11. Added the cranes, and dry fitted the davits. I don't think I'l permanently install the davits until rigging is just about done. In between working on the whaleboats, I think I'll get the main mast stepped. Ratlines and little whaleboats - Slow progress at this point.
  12. Thanks for checking in Bruce. Just got home from work and a did a quick scroll through your Morgan build....All I can say is...OUTSTANDING!!! How I haven't come across it before I don't know. the workmanship, detail, and neatness is inspiring. I'll be using your log often as I attempt to get a result somewhere close to your whaleboats. Of all the whaling models I've seen at this scale, those boats are up there with the best I've seen. The whole model is just jaw dropping! Odd thing about the KC whaleboats..they didn't have a centerboard. I like the idea of masts and oars only. However, I feel I need to have some harpoons/lances (pointy things) somewhere on the model. Although it may not be authentic, I think I may want to put the line tubs in the boats. The thought also crossed my mind of outfitting one completely and showing it being lowered into the water, but I'm afraid that may offset the "symmetry" of the whole ship. I'm pretty sure from the plans, KC's boats didn't have a rudder. Just a stearing oar. Is that possible? No mention of the rudder in the plans. I'm also wondering where the mast was stepped, as the plans do not show where it would go.
  13. Thanks Kurt. I agree abut the scale. There's so much that can be added but in this scale you have to decide how much is enough, and what becomes clutter. Tools for the Cooper's bench, tools for the tryworks, barrels, Cutting in stages, there's just so much....And that doesn't even include how much one can pack into these little whaleboats. Besides mast, spar, harpoons,spades, etc,there's line tubs, knives, lantern box, compass...how much is too much at this scale? I'm still debating if I should be accurate with number of harpoons, lances,etc. in each whaleboat or just a few to give a good representation of all the different things that go in the boat.
  14. Thanks Steve. John- Honored to have you watch. And thank YOU for your KC log. I might still be trying to figure out a way to build a tryworks if it wasn't for your log.
  15. I don't have a lot of time over the summer for modeling, but I managed to make the masts this past summer. Decided at this point to start the standing rigging of the foremast and bowsprit. (in an attempt to put off carving the whaleboats even longer ) Added the davit and bearing post on the port side for the waist boat. This davit goes on the outside of the hull. details are sketchy so it was a a best guess as to how to portray it. Which brings me up to date on this build. I guess uit's time to dive into the whaleboats. I don't want to add the iron davits other than the one above until I have the whaleboats done at least to the point where I know the davits will line up over the hoisting eyes on the whaleboats. These whaleboats are the old machine carved that came with the original kit way back when. There's a lot of sanding, filing, and chiseling to do to get the walls to 1/32". The process has begun. I guess I can always take a break and start stepping the main mast.
  16. After the tryworks I moved to the bowsprit, and a few details on the deck, deadeyes and chainplates, windlass details and anchor chain
  17. Hi Kurt. I actually found a bottle of the floquil rail green that is still good. I don't think I'm I want to repaint the deck furniture with the slightly darker green. I'm going to leave it as is. I will use the Floquil for the little bit a green on the bottom of the masts up to rail level on the fore mast, and up to and including the boom jaw rest on the main mast. I'm also thinking about painting the bowsprit inside the bulwarks with the darker green to match the bulwarks. I might be better off at this point to just leave it though.
  18. While doing research on tryworks and trying to figure out how I was going to make this, I ran across this site, namely, jablackwell's Kate Cory build log. His log, along with Thomas Lauria's great site, and texxn's C.W. Morgan added a wealth of information for me. it was after discovering all these places on line that I truly realized how much I had to learn, and how much better I needed to get. So the tryworks were built. I used the metal pots that I still had from the original kit. The brick was a thin plastic sheet of model railroad "S" scale brick wall, that I painted. The rest is wood sheet and strip wood I had from various kits, and steel wire for the slide rod for the oven doors.
  19. A little background before I start this log. I played around with models of all kinds when I was young, but this was my first effort at a "quality" model as a result. (The term "quality" is up for debate )I am in the middle of this build. I started it back in the late 80's. The hull was shaped, sanded and topsides painted. Plankshseer, rails and decking added and painted.....And there it sat as life went on. Bought a house, raised 2 kids, and late summer of '17 I dusted it off, and started adding rivets to the strip copper for the hull. Little did I know these strips should have been cut into plates. I simply simulated the plates by using the ponce wheel to run vertical rivets every 15mm. After the copper, I started on the deck work. Hatches and companionways, wheel, skylight, galley. Next up was the tryworks.
  20. The Morgan may not be the best for checking ratline color. The Morgan had "ratboards" or battens made of wood. An interesting peculiarity of the Morgan.
  21. Merry Christmas and Happy new year, Ed. Found this log about 4 months ago and I've been following since. You work is amazing. Plus your knack for explaining processes is second to none. I'm extremely grateful you take the time to explain and write this log. I'm relatively new to the hobby and I've learned more here in this log than I ever dreamed possible. Not to mention the inspiration. You have set the gold standard. Thanks!! Rich
  22. Hi John, Enjoyed your Kate Cory log. It's been a great aid as proceed ever so slowly on my KC. Like you, my next build will probably be my first dive into planking. I'll be following along. I'm sure your scratch work will be outstanding. Your tryworks and other deck furniture on the KC were an inspiration for me to get back to building mine after a very long layoff. Rich
  23. Would this fly tying thread work well for ratlines? If so, can anyone suggest a size for 1:64 scale ratlines?
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